SupraGlue

Any opinions on what, if anything, won't immediately begin to flake off?

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by nocab72: Nah, I don't want everyone to hate me, just to know that you shouldn't loose hope... There are dope-ass girls out there that will love you for who you are...keep looking! K<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> *sniff* Thanks, man. I'll keep trying. tongue.gif

Your description still sounds like an ignition miss under boost to me. Did anyone at Passen tell you what kind of plugs and at what gap they put in? Did they show you the old plugs or give them to you? Did they check coil output as well? The pitting business -- did he say it was the compressor or turbine wheel? Your post says turbine, and I have to doubt that, because it is a lot of work to get to a point where you can look at the turbine. Either way, that sounds like someone is trying to sell you a new turbo. It is very unlikely that your turbo is the cause of this problem. Have you (or did they) pressurize the intake system and check for boost leaks? This is usually done by pulling the intercooler hose off the turbo and using either a bicycle pump or air compressor to pressurize everything post-turbo, then listening for leaks. What we usually do on Supras is use an empty soup can and fit an air nozzle to the end of it, then jam the can into the open IC pipe. You then pump it up to a pressure moderately higher than what you run (say 20 psi if you run 14), and listen for hissing air. To check fuel pressure, you need to find a place to fit a gauge and sender into your fuel system. You don't want to run a mechanical gauge into your interior for safety reasons, btw. Do you get any black smoke out of the exhaust under boost? You might want to have someone follow you and check to find out. That would tell you if you are running really rich, which might be an indicator of what's going on. Okay Brett. Your turn.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by nocab72: (gotta love a girl who will buy you car gifts for mushy holidays!)<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> You really want everyone to hate you, don't you? tongue.gif

I'm looking for someplace outstanding to re-do the tint on my car. Someplace a new car dealer would use, or a place that does a lot of high end cars. Quality has to be excellent. If anyone has any recommendations, let me know. Thanks.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MR. EARS: What is that Mark I've never heard that term before <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> It's an area around the outside edge of the piston where it is closest to the head at TDC. Apparently, by keeping that clearance tight, it "squishes" the air/fuel mixture into the combustion chamber and reduces detonation. I see it referred to a lot when people explain why NOT to use a thicker head gasket to reduce compression.

Does anyone have any links explaining what squish area is about? I know what it is, but not much more. Thanks,

Some guys have wondered about this. Here's one from Australia, with links to pics: http://www.supraforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22433

Like Brett said, you need to post more details about your car, otherwise we're just guessing. In which case, I'd guess that the most likely cause is that your plugs are misfiring under boost due to either too large a gap or carbon fouling. You either need new spark plugs at a narrower gap, or you need to drive your car harder (aka an Italian tuneup).

Look at the compression ratio - 9.1:1 and the peak torque 455 ftlb. It's obviously set up for low-end pulling more than peak horsepower. I'll bet it's a great motor to build, though.

Sweet. Thanks. smile.gif Deuce, I'm sure that there will be cheaper imitators pretty quickly. It doesn't look too hard to fab at all. Cool idea, though.

Boat anchor for a very large boat, maybe?

Be sure which type of pad you're getting. Hawk Blues are much more racetrack oriented, but excellent for that. I believe the Hawk Black are their street pads, which have a great reputation. Hawks are what I'm going to be getting when I do my brakes next.

I was doing a Google search on some stuff and found this info on the big block Chevy. I had no idea... "The 2001 truck line includes a new 8.1 liter 496 cubic inch "8100" big block. The bore will remain at 4.250", but the stroke will be increased to 4.370". The firing order is also new 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 and features individual ignition coils mounted near the spark plugs, similar to the LS1 Gen. III smallblocks. CR is 9.1-1 and it uses Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI). All 8.1 liter BBC production motors come with an internally balanced crank, four bolt main caps and redesigned heads with equal length port runners. The 2001 model 8.1 liter BBC uses a roller hydraulic cam and makes 340HP @ 4200 rpm and 455 ft./lbs. @ 3200 rpm. You'll be able to get either an Allison 1000 5-speed auto trannie or a new ZF S6-650 six speed manual gearbox with this new big block. Both trannies are built for a maximum of 520 ft./lbs. of torque. The Marine versions of the 8.1 liter big block comes in two power levels, a 375hp/490 ft./lb. model or a 415hp/490 ft./lb model." I believe that I am going to need one of those at some point in the future.

Yeah, it's a very nasty feeling. It's basically the driven tires bouncing up and down off the pavement under power, which makes the whole car shudder. There are lots of causes and cures. Sometimes it's bad bushings or alignment, sometimes changing tires helps, sometimes changing springs or shock settings helps, sometimes it's a broken or loose shock mount, sometimes bad wheel bearings can cause it, sometimes it's caused by the way the suspension geometry was designed, sometimes a lightweight flywheel can make it worse on manual cars, sometimes it's actually caused by weak control arms flexing -- every car has slightly different causes and cures. Can you tell I had to do a lot of research on it? smile.gif In my experience, if a car is already prone to wheelhop, rough pavement with bad traction will make it worse. If you ever get wheelhop, you need to find a cure quickly, because it puts a lot of extra strain on driveline parts and will probably break something expensive pretty soon.

ACT are good, but be prepared for a really stiff clutch. I've been really happy with my Toyota Racing Development clutch (made by RPS - www.turboclutch.com), which has slightly less spring stiffness. RPS doesn't make anything for your application, though.

700 hp at 9200 rpm. http://www.speedvision.com/~data/publish/racing/05NHRA/020130a.PHOTO_LARGE.jpg And The Story. [ 01 February 2002: Message edited by: Jedi Master ]

3.0 liters + two turbos = 409 rwhp + 428 rwtq + 25 mpg 388 ci + cam + + 4 barrel + 3.42 gear = ~350rwhp + 12-14 mpg For a practical, everyday high performance car, boost is the answer. I'll bet that Brian's 500+rwhp twin turbo 5.0 gets excellent mileage for his power level. Same goes for Scott's 600+ rwhp Supra, or Jeff's ??? 4whp 3000GT (whenever it finally appears ). Either way, that Mustang should be getting much better mileage. You may want to do some basic maintanence before modding that car. I'd recommend cleaning the injectors, changing every filter, especially fuel, flushing the coolant, changing transmission fluid and gear oil, and running a compression check. You might be due for a new O2 sensor as well. Clearly something is amiss with that car, and should be corrected before looking for more power. Just my $.02. [ 01 February 2002: Message edited by: Jedi Master ]

Twin turbo 440 Belvedere. http://www.pentastarpower.com/feets/newpage.html http://www.pentastarpower.com/feets/images/burnout.jpg

Sweet. Awesome replies from everyone. I figured I'd make more than a couple of mistakes. smile.gif First, I'm working on the imports now, so Jono, your car will get mentioned. Same for the Galant VR4, Doug. Howard, I had no idea that the Talon could be had in FWD and that the Laser also came in AWD. Interesting. I'll correct that. Nitrousbird, do you know which 3rd Gens came with the 8.5"? I'm guessing that the '89 Turbo TA did, any others? I've yet to break the rear end in my car, but I've been warned so darned many times about how weak it is. I know that Sam has a friend who ran 11's on one for a whole season before it finally called it in. So perhaps that point ought to be left more open. I just want people to be aware of what is generally considered the weak link of that car. Found TSi, good to have another authortity on that car. I think with all of the nice parts from the 4th gen being available (T56 and LT1), plus the solid aftermarket, that we are going to see a lot of new life in the 3rd gens. Very good point about the subframe connectors. Do you know if the hard top is stiffer than the t-top car? Common sense would seem to indicate that, but I haven't driven them back-to-back in a few years (mine is hard top). James, I try to forget that both GM and Ford produced their "pony cars" with anemic 4 poppers. The 4 cyl Camaro/Firebird were discontinued after 1984, I think. Anyone have a clue on when the 4 cyl Fox body finally died? Axoid, as far as the S-10 and S-15, I did mean to mention them, but forgot to do a "mini-Trucks" section. smile.gif Both make excellent projects for the reasons you mentioned. Does anyone know if the Ford Ranger can fit a V-8 also?

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Doug: I've made up my mind 89 LX 5.0. Now I just have to start saving smile.gif<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Remind me to email you a photo of my Camaro's taillights...

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Shaft: My personal favorite on the list is the Fiero (laugh here). They're cheap and most parts are easy to find. The harder to find parts are mostly on the 88's since this was the first and only year they had a new suspension design. But there are plenty of aftermarket parts for these cars and with a little work an early fiero (with the chevette suspension) can be made to handle better than an 88. The best recorded number ive seen so far is 1.14g's on the skidpad with a mildly modded 88 GT. This car also has a Lingenfelter corvette V8 in it. (A few pics can be seen in Hot Rod Mag. from a few months ago) Also, just about any GM motor can be put in them. I've seen them with Quad 4's, 3.4's, 3.4DOHC, 3.5DOHC, 3.8, 3.8 S/C, 350's, 405's, 455's, and Northstars. I've also seen pics of a GN motor in one, and a 1st gen DSM motor in one. If you can't tell, I know a lot about these cars and hope to have mine by this summer if all goes right.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Awesome post. That's the kind of info we need to build this into a great guide to cheap project cars. Any idea what route you would go with that? Same for you, Kenny. I'm going to try and make this "guide" into a webpage after I get enough info on all the cars.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Doug: thats y I'm getting a 5.0 The grand am isn't worth modding<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Wait until I'm done with the imports. You are very correct about not modding the Grand Am, btw. [ 24 January 2002: Message edited by: Jedi Master ]

Okay, this is an interesting topic that seems to come up whenever we all get together, so I thought I'd kick off a discussion with some of my opinions on this topic. Some of you may have cars to add that I don't mention, so feel free to chime in. Something you always hear is the guy who has a nice little daily driver commuter car who wants to make it faster. My opinion is: DON'T!! You have a nice, new, quiet efficient, reliable car to get to work in. Don't turn it into a project! Spend a little cash on one of the diamonds in the rough I've listed below, and put together something that doesn't need to get you to your job everyday, or take you and your girlfriend out on weekends. I say this for several reasons. First, there is a plethora of very interesting performance cars on the used market that are cheap, cheap, cheap! Everyone wants jacked up station wagons (nee SUVs) right now, for some reason, and we are the beneficiaries of their stupidity. There are major deals to be had on fast machinery. Second, your grocery getter was not designed with high horsepower in mind and the associated abuse that comes with employing said power. You begin to find that you are replacing perfectly good parts on your car because the were never designed to do what you're trying to make them do. Your boss will not be sympathetic when you explain that you couldn't come to work because you had to replace the clutch on your car after a weekend of street racing. So what to do? Start looking for one of the following cars. I've added notes on each one, plus info on who you should talk to on the list to learn more about what you might be getting yourself into. smile.gif Before beginning any project, be sure to do plenty of online research, and find people familiar with the cars to help you through the pitfalls and problems. All cars have them, and it's best if you don't get surprised. NEW SCHOOL (1980-present, used under $5k): There are a nice selection of both imports and domestics that can be made alarmingly quick for surprisingly little money. Yes, many of the cheaper examples will require some work, but we all love working on cars, right? smile.gif ----------------- FORD: Mustang 5.0 - When talking blue oval, there are three words to know -- "Five-point-oh". The 5.0 Mustangs are some of the cheapest and easiest budget performers to build out there. Brian (Mobile Chassis Dyno) has one that I understand was literally built out of junkyard parts that runs in the 13's. There is a huge aftermarket for this car, and a wide variety of performance recepies, ranging from mild to extremely wild. Looks are subjective, and some people find them highly appealing while others are unimpressed. There are two flavors; the plain-wrapper LX, with their a trunk or hatch, and the pimped-out GT. I believe that the lightest is the LX with trunk. It is also the least likely to call attention to itself. Depening on your preference, that is either good of bad. smile.gif On this board, you want to talk to Brian or Chris (changes his screen name daily, look for the white Pontiac GTP in his sig). Mustang SVO - Sometimes forgotten in the shadow of the 5.0 is the 2.3 Turbo Mustang SVO. In my opinion, it is the coolest looking of the Fox body Mustang, and makes for an interesting project. (I'm actually not sure if they can be found under $5k, or not) The 2.3 Turbo does have good performance potential, though not to the level of the 5.0. Chris' dad has one, so talk to Chris for more info. Mercury Capri - Sister car to the 5.0, but it sold in far less numbers. Interesting mostly because it's different from the legions of 5.0 Mustangs out there. Merkur XR4Ti - From what I understand, this car has the same engine as the SVO Mustang. Styling is, ah, unique, and would make for one serious sleeper. ----------- CHEVROLET/PONTIAC/OLDS: Third gen Camaro/Firebird - Built from 1982-1992, there are millions of these cars out there in a variety of configurations: Trans-Am, Z28, Sport Coupe, Rally Sport, IROC-Z, GTA, Firebird, Firebird Formula. Some of the styling of certain years is questionable in my book, but there are enough different models that you're likely find one you like. If you get one WITHOUT the TPI 5.7 (introduced in 1986), plan on doing an engine swap ASAP. The 305's are dogs, no matter what injection system they have (early cars have carbs), and the 2.8 V6 is a hopeless cause. The V6 cars are light, however, and came stripped of options, so they can make for good engine swap candidates. Personally, I like the style of the early "Knight Rider" Trans Ams (1982) and the Firebird Formula. The GTA has a nice look, as do the 86-87 Iroc-Z cars. The main issue with them all is the puny 7.5" rear end. If you get down much below 13.0 or mid 12's, your odds of breaking it start getting really high. Big blocks can bolt in, as can a variety of GM trannys. There is a driveshaft that exists in the early models that allow for a drop in of a TH350. Another conversion I'd seriously consider is putting the LT1 from the 1993-up F-body in one. There are a few people on the board with experience in Third Gens. I'm one of them. smile.gif Monte Carlo SS - In the 80's came with the 305, so it's a swapper candidate. Better rear end for draggers than the F-body, but a heavier car. The 8.5" rear will fit in one. I think I'd be tempted to go with a big block crate motor if I were going to build up this car. Similar cars would be the Pontiac Grand Prix from the 80's and the Olds Cutlass. Some of those cars were really loaded with features and might make a nice cruiser/racer. T-tops, climate control, power seats, etc. could all be found. Olds was also still doing the "Hurst/Olds" and "442" cosmetic packages into the 80s, if you're into that kind of thing. Stock engines are all dogs, so just like the Monte, motor swaps apply here. El Camino - Yes, the "cark". Room for big V-8s, and I believe the same rear suspension setup as the Monte. Kenny is the man around here to talk to about these. Fiero - This one is also a swapper candidate. The "best" motor it ever came with was the 2.8 Multiport found in the late Fiero GTs. The last of these are the best to get, since many of the originial Chevette parts (yes, I DID say Chevette) were replaced with new designs. Unfortunately, I think that the earlier, less adorned Fieros were cleaner and more attractive. The guy to talk to on here about Fiero swaps is 1320n12. He has a turboed 3.4l V6 in his. ----------- BUICK: Grand National/Turbo Regal - Under $5k?? It's been done, or so I hear. Do I really need to say much about this car? Perhaps the most straight line performance potential of any car ever to come out of Detroit, the 3.8 V6 Turbo was used as the basis for Indy Car engines in the late 80's and early 90's. Pure badness. Talk to Turbo Prick to learn more about talking shi..err..I mean, building a fast Buick. Regal - Like the Chevy, Pontiac and Olds mid-size sedans, the RWD Regals are nice engine swap candidates. If you're going to do it, go big. 455ci is a nice starting point. smile.gif Speaking of 455, on this board, talk to Regal455. ---------- DODGE/CHRYSLER/PLYMOUTH: The 1980's and 90's were rough on Mopar fans, and there's not much to see there. All of the budget racers you can build from this era are FWD turbo cars. We've all seen the videos of the 10 second K-car, so you know the 2.2l turbo Dodge is capable when built correctly. Nearly all of their cars from the early 80's on are based off the same platform, so tons of stuff is interchangeable. Here are some of the interesting ones: Shelby anything - There were Omnis, Chargers, Daytonas and probably a couple of others I'm forgetting about. Ol' Shel massaged them a little, changed the turbochargers and wrote his name all over the car. Turbo II anything - Turbo II was a step up from Turbo I, but I'm not much of an expert on these cars. Tons of them in junkyards and the turbos are cheap. I don't know anyone who has built one, so do your websurfing to learn more. Le Baron - The early 80's Le Baron was a very square rear-driver that can hold a Mopar V8. You'd have to love the style of the car to bother with the swap. Later Le Barons were based on the K-car platform like everything else, and could be found as convertibles. TC by Maserati - A bunch of Maser badges and some cosmetic "upgrades" on a K-car based Le Baron convertible. Think of it as a poor man's Cadillac Allante. A very poor man. ---------- DIAMOND-STAR MOTORS (DSM): Now we can have some fun! Right in there on bang for the buck with the "Five-point-ohs" are the DSM cars. Tons of fun and performance potential. Talon, Laser, Eclipse - Lasers are FWD, Talons are AWD. Eclipses came in both. They all use Mitsu engines and turbos. With turbo upgrades, the sky is really the limit with how far you want to go with these cars. Prices on a used Talon can go as low as $1500, which is killer for what you get. There are a number of hardcore DSM guys on here, so talk to one of them. Colt Turbo, ? - There was also a Colt Turbo and a twin car whose name escapes me. These were 1.6l Turbo, FWD. Mitsu engines and turbos. Not really done much since the Talons/Eclipses have more potential and AWD. Would be interesting if someone gave you one, I guess. Mitsubishi Starion, Chysler Conquest - Turbo sports car that preceeded the 3000GT and Stealth. I really like how these cars look. One of them was in a Cannonball Run movie, if you ever saw that. They're not common, and from talking with Nick, I understand that they tend to crack cylinder heads when boost is raised. It would be interesting to find out if a later engine from a Stealth/3000GT would fit in one, since they're rear-wheel drive. --------- Okay, that's enough for today. Coming tomorrow: NEW SCHOOL IMPORTS (1980-present) Comments, questions, additions, corrections, etc. are welcome. Remember, this is for cars that can be had under $5000 in reasonable condition.

Hey, no problem. BTW, let me know if your buddy with the 3rd gen Camaro is going to be hanging out with us some time. I'd like to get his thoughts on a few things.