SupraGlue

Bad news, sort of. A landscaping business rented it out today, and started moving in. No shop days unless another unit comes open.

It's too big to use to store one car. They run $600 a month. Most of them are used for small businesses. It'd make a great place for a fabricating shop, performance parts install, small body shop, etc. Other units are big enough for six cars, but this one has an office in it, so you can fit about three cars inside. I'd suggest checking out one of those self-storage places. I think that for a one car they run around $80/month, maybe.

I'll be working on it in my garage at home all afternoon today and tommorrow, for sure. Feel free to stop by anytime. smile.gif

We still have that warehouse unit open, and I'll be over there making use of it later this week and over the weekend, probably. Anyone who has some one day car projects that they need space for, just drop me a PM. It's the same unit as last year -- Chris, Doug, Jono, Matt, Tommy and Jesse will all remember it. There's an Autozone across the street which is nice. This is in Northeast Columbus, btw. EDIT: BTW, this unit can be rented for $20 a day if you need to use it when I'm not around. If I'm in there and there's room, you can do whatever you want at no charge. If you rent it, I'll give you a key to use and you can work on whatever you want for however long you need. There's room to work on about three cars at one time. No tools, so bring your own either way. [ 04 November 2002, 04:10 PM: Message edited by: Stolen UFO ]

So which one tastes better? Should I sample it straight up out of a fresh bottle? Run a few quarts of each thru my engine and have a sip after its aged? Perhaps as a dipping sauce? Maybe brushed over some chicken on the grill...... tongue.gif </font>That's a pretty funny post. No technical content whatsoever, but entertaining nonetheless. tongue.gif

Talk to rl on this board. He has done quite a few Honda swaps.

lol I figured you wouldn't hold out long. You came one slow update away from being knocked out of the top 10.

It may actually be better. Mobil 1 recently changed their formula, and there's been a lot of speculation that the new composition is not as good (no proof of course. This is the Internet, what do you want? lol). RP, Redline and Amsoil all have very good reputations as high performance synthetics. The nice thing about Royal Purple is that unlike Redline, it doesn't look like any other fluid in your car, so if you find purple crap on your driveway, you know you have an oil leak.

You need to make some kind of cooling ducts for your brakes. Slots and drilling are primarily to help the pad with outgassing, which really isn't a problem with modern brake compounds. They don't do a whole lot for cooling the rotor, and actually give you less metal to hold heat. If you do chose to go with slotted or drilled brakes, sick with slots. I'm not a big fan of drilling. Make sure the slots were cast in place and not machined into a normal disk. Any good performance brand should do that (e.g. Brembo). There's metalurgial reasons for that, having to do with the flow of the grain pattern in the metal. A cut in the rotor face creates weak spots that can form cracks over repeated heat cycling.

The cast log style manifold is often just fine, and has advantages and disadvantages. Tubular manifolds can and do crack (just ask Kenny), but a cast manifold is unlikely to. Also, the shorter path and less heat loss before getting to the turbo tends to make up for the less efficient design in terms of exhaust pulse management. To put some real world data to this, the aftermarket cast manifold for Supras has been dynoed to 600rwhp, and in back-to-back comparsions has spooled the turbo ~300 rpm sooner than stainless headers. The important issue is to have large enough ports to match your head ports, and to have a large enough internal volume with a cast manifold. Most stock manifolds adapted to turbo use will not have enough internal volume to flow efficiently at higher boost. They will also be heavier than tubular headers, and have a quieter exhaust note. Also, keep in mind that any tubular headers for a turbo car must be made of stainless steel. Mild steel will not last long in this application. Expect to spend $500 or more in getting stainless headers fabricated. One can also fabricate a simple header from cast mild steel weld-els (pretty old school), which have the benefits of both cast manifolds in terms of durability, and tubular headers in terms of exhaust pulse management and flow. Such a header will also be VERY heavy and take up a lot of space, but be next to indestructible. Weld ells are also a whole lot cheaper than 304 stainless steel. Cast manifolds lack any pimp factor whatsoever, though. Zero pimping with cast for sure. My first choice for a budget (but not ghetto) turbo project would be to find a cast turbo manifold designed for the car in question. Used is fine. This is due primarily to durability and cost issues. Second choice would either be to fabricate a header using weld ells, or fabricating (or purchasing) one made of 304 stainless. My last choice would be adapting a stock cast manifold, and I would only do that if my boost and power goals were fairly low, if I ported the heck out of it, and it was kind of a junkyard turbo project. That's just my opinion. Hope that there's some useful information in there somewhere. smile.gif

Click here to view the Top 25 horsepower list [ 11. June 2003, 02:43 AM: Message edited by: Dremel ]

http://www.geocities.com/ttskipp/turbochargers.htm Lists the model # and some specs for a wide variety of stock passenger car turbos.

Okay, cool. Thanks. Now that I think about it, Autozone has a slide hammer puller that *might* have a hub attachment. I got it once to do a pilot bearing, but the jaws were too big to fit inside. It looked almost exactly like this one: http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/vehicle_service_tools/PS983.html The hub and carrier are off the car, so I'll just take it in with me.

Anyone got one or know where to borrow/rent/buy one? Thanks.

Does anyone have some good technical links about the LS1 ignition system? Specs, how it works, etc. would be great. Thanks. smile.gif

One of the simplest ways to reduce weight is to get headers to replace the stock cast manifolds, and to get a light stainless or titanium exhaust. Replace the cat(s) with test pipes. They're heavy. Lightweight battery (Optima, Hawker Genesis, etc) will cut some out also. Lighter rims and tires are a given. Some people remove bumper supports, but I'm not a big fan of that. Have less gas in the tank when you race. A gallon of gasoline is pretty heavy. Lighter seats are also a good one, as mentioned.

I didn't ask for fabrication -- I asked for a source of metal and access to a bandsaw. Quit taking over my project. tongue.gif Hua, if you need a couple extra it's no problem. I can't believe what people try to charge for these things (Powerhou$e *cough*).

Better yet -- any local metals places that will custom cut pieces of stock? I found one online that looks pretty good. No minimum orders or anything: http://www.onlinemetals.com/faq.cfm

Anyone know where to get small pieces of 1/4" thick aluminum? There were a few of us talking at the dyno day (or night) about it. Joe? Rob? Bueller? Anyone? smile.gif EDIT: Oh, yeah, almost forgot. Who has a bandsaw? Thanks. [ 16 October 2002, 02:10 AM: Message edited by: Stolen UFO ]

Got a couple also. You should see if you can find a leakdown tester, too.

Pfft. The standard Greddy, HKS, and Hose Techniques stuff is weak. Here's what came with my hardpipes: http://www.purosil.com/update/purosil_70_series.html I also have some HKS couplers, and there is no comparison. The Purosil is twice as thick. I'm not sure where you find it in smaller lengths, though.

EDIT: These are all ballpark numbers, btw. Actual horsepower output with a particular injector size will depend on fuel pressure, af ratio, willingness to extend duty cycle and driveline loss. But anyway... Four 700cc injectors should give you enough fuel flow at high duty cycle for around the 425 safely at the wheels. Four 550's should give you enough for around 330 safely at the wheels. Four 440's is really running out of safety by around 270 at the wheels, so 300 must really be at a maxed out duty cycle, running moderately lean or some extra fuel pressure. I'm assuming 85-90% duty cycle, which is a responsible maximum for top feeds, im my view. Also assuming around 40psi base, rising at 1:1 with boost (no FMU). You should go a little overboard on fuel with a boosted car anyway. Hope that helps a little. [ 26 September 2002, 01:46 PM: Message edited by: Stolen UFO ]

Doesn't the T3 usually come with an internal wastegate? If so, you shouldn't need an external one. If not, 40mm will be fine. Don't be afraid of internals, btw. There's nothing wrong with them until you get to fairly large turbos. Even Kenny's T60 has one. Joe and his 46mm...lol Wow. Do rotaries need bigger wastegates or something, or did you drop the TO4E for a T72? What size engine is this T3 for, btw? [ 25 September 2002, 02:07 AM: Message edited by: Stolen UFO ]

Cool. Thanks for all the info. smile.gif It did seem that the Paxton and Aeromotive looked suspiciously similar.

Not sure what a "poopra" is , but most jellybean jockeys run a 1:1 rising rate like you do. A few rebels and miscreants have tried to tune with adjustable rate FMU's, but it is generally frowned upon, sneered at, and treated with the typical snobby contempt that one would expect in the MKIV world. tongue.gif [ 19 September 2002, 07:49 PM: Message edited by: Stolen UFO ]