SupraGlue

Between Paxton, SX, HKS and Aeromotive, does anyone have good/bad experiences with any of these? Given that poorly regulated fuel pressure can ruin your day and all...

There are a number of places online with fast turnaround. RC in California is the most widely known, but one of the more expensive ($24 per injector). You want to find a place that can give you flow ratings before and after cleaning, as well as spray pattern evaluation. There are usually two aspects to a cleaning -- a solvent to dissolve and wash away deposits, and ultrasonics to help mechanically break up the deposits. Check out http://www.rceng.com/service.htm to get an idea. EDIT: To keep injectors clean afterwards, use a good quality in-tank cleaner like Chevron Techron concentrate or BG44k every 3-6 months. http://www.bgprod.com/autofuel.html [ 16 September 2002, 03:24 PM: Message edited by: Stolen UFO ]

I once heard that a definition of Japanese innovation was "answering questions that no one has asked". You could probably play Dig Dug on it, though.

You could run some kind of reverse flow resonator either before or instead of a straight through canister. Reverse flow helps cancel out the high frequencies which contribute greatly to the bumblebee buzzing. My Greddy SP has two RF resonators on it, and they really mellow the sound out.

Yes, very funny, but put in the General section next time. tongue.gif

Why ruin a fourth gen like that unless your rescuing a total wreck or building a racecar? Get a cheap third gen and do the swap on it. Heck, you can find them all the time with no motor. I've done that swap (EFI V6 to carbed V8) and it's not hard at all. What you need is the crossmember for the tranny and to tap the holes in the frame that are already there for it, a driveshaft out of a three speed auto (1982, I think), and a V8 third gen already has the right motor mounts. The in-tank pump makes WAY too much pressure for a carb, so you either need a regulator that can adjust down to the 5-6psi you need, or you need to remove it and convert to a mechanical pump, or a lower pressure electric one. The torque arm bracket will unbolt off the old tranny tailshaft and fits right on to the new one. Speedometer gear will need to be changed also. As long as you get a drop base air cleaner, you can fit it just fine under the third gen hood (this is with an Edelbrock Performer and Holley carb). A V8 will fit in a V6 third gen also -- you just need to buy the V8 mounts. Holes for them are already in the crossmember and tapped from the factory. Hope that helps. Edit: Let me clarify "ruin". smile.gif I think that a better swap would be an LT1 into the V6 body, OR just to get an LT1 Z28. Prices have fallen to very reasonable levels on the early cars. [ 27 August 2002, 07:54 PM: Message edited by: Stolen UFO ]

So if I can shave 1260 pounds off my car, I can break the speed of light? Look out, John Force! Here I come! tongue.gif

Need to press out old wheel bearings and press in new ones. Where can I get this done?

Huge thanks to Ben, Ricky and Katie for coming over to help tear the car apart. It was a fun time. Using an air compressor is . We all even ordered pizza and everything.

Thanks Tommy and Eric (who brought a jack over) for helping me get started. Looks like we're going to be working on it again today around 4:30 or so. The pool is perfect, too. Just IM me if you're interested in helping, spectating, or just standing around laughing at us. smile.gif

After three it is, then. If anyone is interested in stopping by, IM me at: Stolen94UFO

Birthday dinner for my girlfriend, and we have to be there (downtown) at 6. I didn't want to inconvenience you guys and take up the middle of the afternoon. We still can, if you want. smile.gif

How does Monday afternoon or evening sound? Looks like it should be a really nice day -- sunny and close to 90, so swimming would work too. smile.gif I'll be here all day Monday, so I'm flexible about the time.

Sweet, thanks guys. smile.gif This is definitely ON for Sunday. I'm going to make calls tomorrow to find a shop that can press them out and back in. I expect the bearings will be here Monday or Tuesday. Then the "easy" part -- reassembling everything. smile.gif Oh, and if anyone has a torque wrench, mine's down in Athens with the Camaro. BTW, Scott -- I'm going to put together a camping, fishing, shooting, four-wheeling, country road blitzing, weekend sometime in August down on our land in Athens. I'm sure more parts will get torn off the Camaro then.

Okay, I've decided that while my car is down that I'm going to do a few maintenance items that really need done. One of those is rear wheel bearing replacement (ugh!). So far things look like this: to get the thing off is going to require several items that I don't currently have. One is an impact wrench. Does anyone know where I can rent/borrow a portable air compressor and an IW? Another is a ball joint puller. I've been advised by Supra experts to use a ball joint puller and ball joint press for removing/reinstalling the ball joints. I understand that these are available at Autozone. If anyone knows more about that, please let me know. The other big thing I need to find is a shop that will press out the old bearings and press in the new ones. If anyone has any recommendations, that would be great. That's about it. I'm going to order the parts and probably do the disassembly Sunday. Anyone who wants to get nice and dirty is welcome to help. Pool is open (and heated) so, bring swimming trunks!

Chris is right. Don't screw around with your daily. If you have to do something, get a AAA membership then toss the spare tire and tools out. smile.gif (BTW, real hardcore weight reduction can be one of the MOST expensive ways to mod a car. Lighter materials with high structural strength tend to cost a bit. Losing weight off the driver is free, however. tongue.gif ) A cheap turbo car would respond much better to free (or cheap) mods. Good examples would be the DSM cars and the Mopar turbo cars. Heck, you're lucky if a *stock* Saturn keeps running. I wouldn't try and push my luck if I were you. j/k [ 10 July 2002, 01:37 AM: Message edited by: Stolen UFO ]

Do you see any evidence that coolant is actually spilling out somewhere? Do you smell it while driving? Are there any puddles when you park? Sorry to say that if not, there is a good chance that the engine is drinking it.

I don't have a Mustang, but I *do* have a third gen Camaro -- which uses a factory torque arm setup. My curiousity about the Mustang torque arm conversion durability has to do with the fact that on our cars, it's generally regarded as a bad idea to try to fit our torque arm on to a non-torque arm rear axle. Typical axle replacements (such as Moser, Strange and KTRE) have a custom designed and cast "coconut" that incorporates the mounting bracket. From what I could tell, the Griggs setup for the Mustang was just using the cover bolts as a mounting point. Like I said, very interesting. smile.gif

I was doing a little reading on the net, and I came across some sites selling kits to convert the Mustang rear suspension from upper control arms to a torque arm setup. All of the standard benefits were claimed -- better launches, better handling, etc. What I am curious about is the durability of this conversion. Is anyone familiar with this? The mounting of it to the rear axle housing was interesting, to say the least.

Neat trick. smile.gif I'm going to have to try that.

You run alcohol roughly twice as rich as you do gasoline, so the ratio would be half, as in around 6 or 7 to 1. Thus, an alcohol fuel system needs to be designed for around double the flow of a gasoline one -- pumps, lines, injectors.

About half of that for gasoline.

Does anyone on here have one or have experience using the FAST eDist (http://www.fuelairspark.com)? I was reading an article about it today and it sounds pretty cool. Just wondering if anyone has more practical knowledge about it.

Two Supra ICs would be a lot of piping, and you want to try to keep the volume of the system down if you can. That ebay IC is a pretty good price, though the welding looks really sloppy (like I need to tell you that! lol). If you can get someone to TIG it for you on the cheap, I'd just go for a core from an outfit like Spearco, Cartech, etc. Do a Google search on "intercooler cores" and you find quite a few.

Yeah, I can barely make over 400rwhp with one. tongue.gif Seriously, though it's a pretty poor design with those plastic end tanks and sidemount shape (kinda like a big cube). NPR and Starion are both good suggestions and could be augmented Starion with a water or water/alcohol injection to further cool the intake charge and suppress knock. Check out turbobuicks.com for info on that. The Buick guys tend to lead the pack on that kind of thing.