SupraGlue
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Everything posted by SupraGlue
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Ricky is correct. There are a number of cheap or do-it-yourself O2 simulator boxes out there. I'd check to see which ones are known to work for your car. From what I have seen, some ECUs are more easily fooled than others.
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You were traded. Out with you! tongue.gif
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Jason, this is your only warning. If you want to keep posting in this section, stick to facts. Name calling and profanity won't be tolerated. Edit: Also, guys...in this section in general, make an effort to know what you're talking about before posting. Every car has it's strengths and weaknesses -- the people who own them and mod them know that better than anyone. It's okay to have a civil and intelligent discussion about that. smile.gif [ 29. January 2003, 08:42 PM: Message edited by: No Soup for You ]
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Actually, Joneze was talking smack on AIM and I was hoping people would vote for the DSM. tongue.gif I agree that people who know what they're doing don't seem to break their rotaries. Oh, well. smile.gif
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The MKIII blows head gaskets on stock boost, even. Heck, the N/A MKIII blows head gaskets sometimes.
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Please keep any comments you post in this thread FACTUAL. Flames will be deleted. smile.gif
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Please vote for the least reliable performance car in your view. Assume that the car has been modded to a "average" degree.
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View Tech Posting Guidelines, list item 1. As far as that system, I can see it being very useful as an AIC (additional injector controller) also. For a budget fuel system on a boosted car, running auxilliary injectors can be very effective. You get the driveability of the stock ECU when out of boost, then the added fuel from the secondary injector(s) when at WOT at higher than stock boost. Thanks for posting the link. That site is very interesting. [ 20. January 2003, 02:30 PM: Message edited by: No Soup for You ]
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At the very least you should try to get a pressure plate with stiffer springs than stock. It shouldn't cost significantly more than a stock one. That's really the only difference between my clutch and stock. You need to find out if your stock flywheel can be resurfaced also. If it is badly worn when you get the car apart, you might need a new one. You will enjoy life significantly more if you can con someone into letting you use their lift and an air compressor, btw.
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If you're looking for an all-around performance tire, nothing has dry grip like the BFG G-force KD. Otherwise, the Nitto is probably your best bet. But it does need to be very warm to get maximum hookup. I love BFG tires, though. My setup would be KD's on the street, with a set of BFG drag radials on another set of stock rims for the track or "special" evenings.
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You'll get better bang for the buck if you find an experienced head porter. Human mind + die grinder can equal some pretty good results.
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Probably overkill, but wow. These look really sharp: http://www.pi-thon.com/index.htm
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Time for a new engine, at least the bottom end. He's wiped out some bearings. Moderator note: as tempting as it will be for some of you to make smart assed comments on this thread...DON'T.
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Let's see some more. There's no reason that the top 25 shouldn't all be over 300whp. The top 5 should all be over 500. Also, I've decided to leave #7 on even though it sadly no longer exists. The only time I'll remove a car is if it gets sold out of the area or to a non-list member, or if the mods are taken off. One change I will make -- if you have a website devoted to your car (pictures, mods, performance data, etc.), let me know and I will hyperlink it. [ 08. January 2003, 04:19 PM: Message edited by: No Soup for You ]
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There is also a mod where you can drill a hole in the top and add an adjustment screw. That would seem to me to be a better route than crushing the top. You DSMers are a crazy bunch of MacGyvers, that's for sure. lol I love reading your tech articles. smile.gif
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I'd also like to introduce at this time The Official Tech Section Buckeye Smilie: http://www.frognet.net/~mitias/smilies/buckgrin.gif
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This thread is completely off-topic but will be allowed because we're moderators and we can do that. tongue.gif Here's my 10 Most Valuable Buckeyes for the season: 10. Kenny Peterson 9. Will Smith 8. Michael Jenkins 7. Mike Nugent 6. Andy Groom 5. Matt Wilhelm 4. Mike Doss 3. Maurice Clarett 2. Chris Gamble 1. Craig Krenzel Feel free to post anything Buckeye related you want in this thread. Post offensive to the moderators will be deleted or edited.
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Top 25 dyno numbers have been updated. To make the list you're going to need more than 212hp at the wheels. Top 15 are all over 300hp. Top 10 is just about all over 400hp. Top 5 is well into the 400's, and the top 2 are over 500.
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Which is why he shouldn't do it.
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Questions about Greddy A/F "sorta wideband...maybe" gauge
SupraGlue replied to Nitrousbird's topic in Tech and Tips
I have never heard of anyone knowledgable doing serious tuning with the Greddy on Supras. It uses a four wire sensor that Greddy themselves state should NOT be relied upon for tuning purposes. It is NOT the same five wire UEGO sensor used by Techedge, Motec and FJO. Kyle has the Techedge from Australia. He's been happy with the results, and the results from it were consistent with Brian's wideband on the dyno. I do know some people have had issues related to proper grounding of the control unit, but Kyle being Kyle, he has installed it correctly and had no problems (that I know of). Everyone I know with the FJO unit raves about it. It's very good, and comes with excellent technical support. Suprastore exists for the sole purpose of making the owner's car faster, not anyone else's. I wouldn't base any product decision soley on information from that site. Here is a FAQ from a leading retailer of the FJO. It's biased towards the FJO, but I've found the owner of that site (http://www.widebando2.com) to be a straight up and reliable guy: http://www.widebando2.com/FAQ%20More%20Info_1.htm The info there pretty much squares up with everything I've read on the topic. -
Sounds like you're going to have a beast. How much did that tranny build cost, btw?
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Yeah, what Nick said. Your stock pump puts out way too much pressure for a carb. You'll need to either pull it and replace it with a lower pressure one, or run a return style regulator that can go down to 5-7 psi. The swap is otherwise simple. The increased torque may cause you to break tranny mounts, however. My Camaro has been through several. The stock Vortec heads are considered the best GM production heads by most people and are pretty cheap. For compression with iron heads, I'd stay conservative if you want to run pump gas. No more compression than your cam needs. Without knowing what cam you plan to run, it's hard to say, but the ballpark would be under 10:1. With AL heads, you can go a little higher. Same goes for high overlap cams. Dynamic compression is what really counts. Sounds to me that with the mild heads you're planning on, that your cam won't be too extreme. Pick a cam and go with what the manufacturer recommends. If your CR is too high, you'll have to take some advance out to keep the pistons in one piece. Or you'll have to start mixing race gas in. If it's a TPI car, you should be careful in removing the harness, sensors, ECU, etc. A working TPI system is worth $$$ to some people. Hot rod types love that setup.
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All the opinions sound good here so far. Greddy is a good value BOV if you are not running huge boost. It should be fine for at least 15psi and probably much higher. I ran it for a while, and it can move plenty of air. If you feel like MacGyvering something, both the stock MKIV and stock DSM valves can actually be modified to become adjustable. I wouldn't consider them unless you're at fairly low boost. Neither will bypass very much air either. They're small valves. The ultimate street-type valve is the HKS imo, due to it's unique design. Boost pressure actually holds it closed until there is a pressure differential. I'm not always the biggest HK$ fan, but this is one case where they really did build a better mousetrap. Their wastegates are outstanding also.
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Do whatever swap is easiest. You can get all the power you need out of either a Ford or Chevy. IMO, the only criteria that matters is how easy it is. Fabricating custom brackets, crossmembers, etc. isn't fun. You want a pre-made kit, if it exists. Hit the 4Runner boards and ask. Also, some people are swapping the 7M-GTE out of the MKIII Supras into those trucks. Seems to me like a PITA, but who knows?