SupraGlue

This thread is being locked, and I'm deleting the personal insult posts. Technical differences of opinion are fine, but you guys need to leave your egos out of it.

Do a voltmeter check across the battery terminals when the car is off and when the car is running. Off, the voltage should be in the mid-high twelves, and running it should jump up to 13.5-14 volts. If it doesn't jump up, you have a problem with the alternator or with the voltage regulator. If it jumps up, but the cold voltage was low, there is a problem with the battery. If you get the right numbers, you have another problem, possibly a short circuit or some kind of power drain occuring. Hope that helps.

Depending on what you want to spend, there are several trims of the Garrett T04B (older design) that will support enough airflow to get around there, as will some of the T04E (newer design). If this is a larger V-type engine (5.0 V8? ), you could consider a pair of T3s, which are very commonly available used, since they've been put on thousands of cars over the last 20 years. Without knowing your exact application, I'd speculate that you'd need a pair of T3-45's or better. These (or something similar) came on everything from Volvos to turbo Dodges to Mustang SVO's/T-Bird Turbos. You will also want to consider the issue of internal versus external wastegate. Now, what engine is this going on again? smile.gif

Be careful with modding the 3.0l V6. It's known to occasionally blow a head gasket. That's another reason why most Toyota rock crawlers use the 22R four cylinder, it's been a solidly reliable engine for over 30 years. Not to say you can't build the 3.0, but may want to consider installing metal head gaskets along with any other mods you do.

This question was posted twice, and at least 50% of the posts in this thread resemble graemlins/bsflag.gif to me. Therefore it is being locked. Wow. I finally get to play moderator. How fun. P-town, talk to Corey (orders@midnight-performance.com) and I'm sure he can make an intelligent and cost-effective recommendation for you.

Definately go with what rl and blupastu said. Particularly in terms of valve lash. It really sounds like an intake valve or valves hanging open, presuming your ignition timing and firing order are correct. The only other thing I can add is make absolutely sure that you've got the distributor on the right cam tooth and not off by a tooth or by 180 degrees (been there, done that). Good luck.

why does he need to do that? he wasnt asking for a mechanic....... sell your car yet? </font> Errr...Joe? Read the topic of the thread. "RX-7 work...need mechanic..." LOL

Don't feel bad. At least your dealer network doesn't SUCK as bad as Toyota's does. Granted, we rarely need parts, but when we do, it's a two-week wait for the WRONG FREAKING $5 PART. Toyota Direct http://frognet.net/~mitias/smilies/rl%5B1%5D.gif Oh, and I need to change my oil every now and then, and the filter is a pain to reach. tongue.gif

Thanks, everyone for the feedback on day 1. I agree with the comments made by Buck and 614Streets. This is definately meant as a safe do-it-yourself deal for cars with reasonably good paint that are looking for a nice "street finish". Severe problems or serious car show details are beyond the scope of this process, btw. As far as paying goes, I am not a professional, just a hobbyist who likes his car. smile.gif You've heard from a couple of the pros on the list, so I'd recommend talking to one of them if you're serious about getting that done. Now, on to day 2, buffing and polishing. If you ever leave the car to sit overnight in the middle of a detail, btw, ALWAYS clean it off with Quick Detailer before continuing on to the next step. Step #3 - Rubbing/buffing compound: Here is where you're going to start using the DA buffer, and a good quality mild rubbing compound. My choice is 3M Perfect-It II Fine Cut. This will knock down any scratches 1500 grit or higher, along with removing a lot of stains, paint or other contaminants left in the surface layer that the clay didn't get. 3M makes some great products with excellent consistency, btw. What you want to do is use a clean buffing pad on the DA, and try not to use too much compound (easy to do). You'll be surprised at how little you need. Start at a slower speed (if it is a multi-speed buffer) and work the compound onto the panel, running the buffer over it lightly. Now, you're going to want to keep buffing until the compound starts to come back up into the pad -- you can increase the speed a little to help. This is a polishing process that uses the abrasive in the compound to knock down the roughness in the surface, and the abrasives become smaller and finer as you continue to buff the surface. When you're done with a panel, there should be only a little residue left. Wipe that off with a clean diaper cloth, then go back over the panel with one of the microfiber cloths to get it totally clean. Once you are done with rubbing compound, the paint should feel super-smooth and be free of any water stains, scuffs, exhaust stains, etc. If it isn't (you have scratches that didn't come out), you might want to talk to a pro about color sanding or a more severe buffing process. Step #4 - Swirl Remover: This is a lot like the buffing stage, but easier. smile.gif The Swirl Remover I use is Meguairs Mirror Glaze Professional #9 Swirl Remover. Get a clean pad for the buffer, and work the swirl remover just like the rubbing compound in step #3, one panel at a time, as always. Again use the DA buffer and diaper cloths to clean off the residue. Finish off by going over each panel with the microfiber cloths to remove any Swirl Remover that didn't come off. Coming tommorrow: final polishing, waxing and maintaing your finish between details.

Now that Spring seems like it could finally be on the way, it's time to get all of our cars clean, right? smile.gif Anyway, I thought I'd post a quick description of a nice detailing process to really help your finish along if you've got a car that's a few years old and getting a little dull. I like to do this twice a year, once in the Spring and in the Fall. Some things you are going to need first are, a DA buffer (I really can't recommend doing this by hand -- it takes too much time and work, and the results aren't as good, IMO), and some good quality products for each stage. I've made some suggestions here of the ones I use. You also want a lot of clean diaper cloth rags and some microfiber cloths. First stage: Cleaning What you want to do here is get all of the old wax and loose dust, dirt and grime off. Since we're going to re-wax the car, it's okay to use a harsher soap than you normally would (most good auto wash products will preserve your existing wax coat). You should also use a nice fluffy wash mitt, and be sure to run plenty of water over the car to keep the dirt from being ground into the finish. Hand dry the car with some of the diaper cloth rags and let them dry. They should still be clean (if not, you didn't do a good wash job. lol). Second state: Once the car is clean and dry, run your hand over the surface. You will feel some roughness or grittiness on older paint, and maybe even kind of a chalky feeling if there is some oxidation. We're going to get rid of a lot of that using a clay bar. Primarily, a clay bar removes particles bonded to the paint that soap can't get. The clay bar I use is the Meguairs. Mother's also makes one "California Gold" that is a little softer and easier to work with your hands. I've got a trick with the Meguairs, though. What you want is to flatten the bar out as much as you can (about the size of the palm of your hand). Since the Meguiars is so hard, what I do is soak it down in Meguiar Quick Detailer spray and put it in a Ziploc freezer bag, then put it between two blocks of wood and step on it a few times. smile.gif That seems to get it nice and flat (I weight 190lb). Now what you want to do is spray down a panel at a time with Quick Detailer (very important, since the clay bar need lubricant to work) and run your nice flat clay bar over the surface. You will actually feel the grit through the bar as you run over it. Do this for every panel, and stay away from any rubber moulding and pannel gaps or seams (You don't want to get any clay in them). After you're done with a panel, take a dry diaper cloth and wipe the car dry. Then either flip over the bar, or wad it back up into a ball and re-flatten it. You always want a clean surface of clay on your car. Don't let it get dirt built up, and always keep it stored in a sealed bag. After you're done with the clay, the paint should feel super smooth, but scuffs, scratches and stains may still remain. I'll get to those tomorrow when I cover buffing and swirl removal. [ 17 March 2002, 08:00 PM: Message edited by: Stolen UFO ]

What he said. lol You'll need to calculate whether or not any of those ICs are going to give you the temp drop and airflow you need. It sounds like the NPR does a pretty good job of minimizing pressure loss. They may already be painted from Isuzu, btw. Aquamist is marginal at best, given your intended airflow. You would be best to consider one of the Buick GN systems and/or your own custom deal. It's my opinion that given the larger amounts of water that high boost engines need, that it might be worth considering building a two-stage setup. 50/50 water-alcohol mix has been shown most effective in experiments. Higher % of alcohol don't give as much intake temp drop, but act as more of a fuel enrichment mechanism. Think of it as a poor man's constant flow fuel injection at that point. As far as components, I know that quite a few setups use the "Shureflo" (sp?) pump. Nozzles can be had (brass) from McMaster-Carr, and a fairly simple circuit can be put together with an arming switch plus a Hobbes switch and solenoid to activate the system at a predetermined boost pressure. How I would consider rigging up a multi-stage setup would be to use two Hobbes switches set at different boost pressures, and a second solenoid supplying a second nozzle. I'd also try to run the pump at a higher voltage in the second stage to keep pressure uniform. The reason for doing that is that you might bog the motor initially with higher water flows. I'd try a single stage setup first, though, then deal with bogging if it occurs.

Yeah, my '85 has broken three of them. You may want to look into the cause of the wheelhop, as that's probably what broke it.

What brand/size of drag radials are you guys using? [ 10 March 2002, 04:17 PM: Message edited by: Stolen UFO ]

Can you post a .WAV file? lol If the reverse noise is related to the reverse gears and idlers, it will continue whether or not the clutch is engaged, since the output shaft will still be turning. Same goes for output shaft bearings, but those should make the same noise while rolling forward as well if they are the problem.

Yeah, I had the same thought about the throwout bearing. If it wasn't greased enough, or at all, I'd expect it to make kinda of a racket. Pilot bearing should have been replaced also, but I doubt that it is the cause of your problem. The gear noise in reverse is some kind of gear whine somwhere in the tranny, I'd guess. I'm sure you'd know the inside of your tranny better than I would at this point, but reverse should be going through a set of idler gears to reverse the rotation of the output shaft. Since you don't get the whine in forwards gears, I'd think real hard about anything you did removing the idler gears or the reverse gears. Particularly anything that might have changed the CLEARANCE in the reverse gear set.

"Turbochargers" by Hugh MacInnes Usually under $20, widely available. Published by HP Books. This is a book that I've had for a while, and I recently went through and re-read it. For people who don't think that Corky Bell's book is quite technical enough, Turbochargers should meet your fix. If Bell's book is Turbos 101, then MacInnes gives you the advanced class. It's an older book (published in 1984), but fortunately, the sciences of thermodynamics and flud mechanics haven't changed significantly since then. smile.gif The mid-80's were the first heydey of the turbocharger in many ways -- extensive use in Forumla One, Indycar, Sports Car and Endurance racing, as well as in Rally, offshore powerboating, etc. Most manufacturers were producing several turbo cars in their lineups, and aftermarket kits were surprisingly plentiful. MacInnes fills the book with enough equations to make a math junkie overdose. If you can handle the numbers (and have a good calculator) you will be rewarded with some wonderful gems. Want to calculate the intake temperature after your intercooler? No problem, it's there. Many of the equations are out there on the internet, but it's nice to have everything in one convenient place, and tied together in a coherent way. At times the book seems more than a bit historical. Many of the turbos and kits he references are completely obsolete, and many of the techniques he discusses are somewhat out of date. For example, there is extensive discussion of draw-through carb turbocharging, which really hasn't been done seriously in more than 15 years, I'd imagine. There is virtually no coverage of electronic fuel injection, which has really revolutionized the way we tune cars. For those reasons, this book has to be combined with more modern knowledge, from the web, Bell's book, and/or practical experience. There is some value for people who are turbocharing old/classic cars. It makes an interesing companion book to Bell's "Maximum Boost". Many things that Bell utterly dismisses, like water injection, are covered by MacInnes. It's also a more theoretical book than Bell. Where Bell tells you "how", MacInnes tells you "why". Unforunately, it hasn't been updated since 1984, which is a shame. The author is (was?) obviously very enthusiatic about turbocharging, and does a very complete job of helping the reader understand the science, engineering and history behind them. Clearly, with the enthusiast interest in aftermarket turbocharging and modification of turbo cars, there is room for someone to step forward with a book that combines the technical depth of "Turbochargers" with the current information and practical approach of "Maximum Boost". In the meantime, reading both seems to work pretty well. smile.gif If you're really looking to expand your knowledge about turbos, I highly recommend "Turbochargers". If you're a beginner, I'd recommend either "Maximum Boost" or possibly "Supercharging, Turbocharging, & Nitrous Oxide" by Earl & Diane Davis first. (I'll review that sometime soon, if anyone is interested) [ 06 March 2002: Message edited by: Stolen UFO ]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by SamZman: Probably the fact that he has an 11 sec timeslip tongue.gif<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> lol That's great. :-D

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by kenny: Woah... stock internals, lots of NAWS and now yellow painted parts, are you sure you're not a closet ricer? tongue.gif<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> kenny ur such a hater joe is just trying to build a firebird type r like they have in japan geesh bwhahaha

Hey, I know this is an old thread, but I just saw this post over on Supraforums: <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>I'm qualified to answer this! Here's the deal: Whatever you do, DO NOT use header crap...er...wrap on your manifolds or downpipes!! Regardless if it is stainless or not, the life of the object wrapped will go WAY down. I used to work for a well-known manufacturer of automobile and motorcycle turbosystems. All we ever fabricated was made out of 304 or 321 stainless, or SCH40 pipe. We have used EVERY product available. The wrap merely traps moisture during cool-down... As far as ceramic-coating goes, we used it frequently on turbine housings, headers and downpipes. Outside coverage IS recommended, but do NOT coat the inside of the pipes! The material INSIDE is what melts/cracks and ends up inside your turbo! OUTSIDE good, INSIDE bad. Cheap plug #4827: I use Lo-Ko Performance Coatings in Illinois. Cheaper than HPC or Jet-Hot, better sheen appearance, and MUCH quicker turnaround time. You are all welcome! <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by More Tools Than Columbus Racing: I still say you powder coat it! <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> What? The engine or the whole car? lol

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by nocab72: moderately mod'd Supra v/s lightly mod'd RX7 is no fun, let me reach the ranks of moderately mod'd before you start pickin... K<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> hehehe All I've got is a little ol' downpipe, an exhaust everyone says is too restrictive, and a boost controller that isn't even hooked up right. Heck, you've even got that fancy, high tech replacement computer and everything. tongue.gif Maybe *I* should wait for more mods!

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by nocab72: Thanks to everyone who offered to help with my dp! it's in! This morning I woke and felt ambitous (sp?), I put the car up on stands, removed some hoses and heat sheilds so I could get to the bolts and wrestled 2 of the 6 bolts loose. With many thanks to 89TIIdutch for some extra tools and muscle we were able to get the pre-cat removed and downpipe installed in about 4.5 hours! whiiiiiiiiiizzzzzzzz, wow, I can really hear my turbo's spin up now!!! Who needs a stereo when you got such a nice whine? k<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Nice job. smile.gif Yeah, I rarely ever use my stereo anymore. You'll have that. So when are we going to run??? I'm developing a taste for Doritos! bwahahaha

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Vette80: torque is what really matters anyway<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> For pulling dead stumps out of the ground, perhaps, but not when it comes to accelerating a mass. Area underneath the power curve over the given RPM range utilized by the gearing is what moves a car. Try shifting just after your peak torque on a run, then try shifting after your peak horsepower on a run, and then compare timeslips. I'll make a gentlemen's bet with anyone who would like as to the outcome.

Aha! I finally found something useful. Squish and quench are the same thing, btw, though I kinda like "squench". smile.gif Here's a link: http://www.theoldone.com/archive/quench-area.htm

Now, see...that's what I would have thought. Engine. Engine paint. Kinda logical, right? But...my nice, bright red Chebbie block started flaking within 2000 miles, and it was painted at the machine shop. Very annoying, since it chose to flake right at the front of the block, above the water pump. Now, let's say that I wanted to match the color of the block to the color of the car. Will regular auto body paint survive, or should I just dismiss that as a silly idear? (The engine will probably be coming out for some work soon, anyway)