Nitrousbird

I'd personally go 10's. From most of the 8's I've heard, they just don't reproduce bass well enough.

I would agree. But more like a re-re-re-repost.

The kind of supercharger makes a difference too. There's a HUGE difference between a twin intercooled D1SC and a stupid Powerdyne. Any motor work done? Stock LT1 shortblocks are NOT boost friendly. As for the headliner comment, my Formula is also a 94 w/ about 90k on the clock now, and the headliner is in perfect shape. My car hasn't fallen apart, other than the things I've broken due to heavy abuse.

Yeah, I'd LOVE to find a 2GB Micro SD that cheap. I've been watching E-bay very closely, and haven't found any for that price. I just bought a 1GB on E-bay last night for $27 shipped. I decided I didn't want to spend the extreme extra money on the 2GB.

- Trail Tech Vapor for my Raptor...it is SWEET. - Computer Chair - Clothes - Cash - Lots of Gift Cards - AAA membership - Stocking Stuffer type stuff

I think you are thinking of the covers that are hard to read from an angle. This is something totally different.

How pissed and embarassed would you have been if she said no in front of all of those people??!!

No problem, glad to help out. I was very glad to see the Kettle One sitting there...tasty treat.

Too damn small. I couldn't own one if I wanted to, 6'3", 210 lbs, and I simply don't fit. Seeing the normal people that drive them, they are mostly driven by old people. Peaky power band and fairly torqueless...just like an RX7, lol. IMO, if you want a small import, buy an RX7 w/ no motor and toss in an LS1.

Why not just leave in the LT1?? Hell, there's a 9 second LT1 Impala SS running around here. The LT1 has plenty you can do to it to make it quite fast. Besides, the LS1 tend to get pussy hurt when beat by an LT1.

Are you whacking it enough??

Locked. Your stuff isn't more important that anyone elses; I'd lock this regardless of the item/person posting; nothing personal, just doing my job.

If you get a new processor, I'd be willing to buy the 2100 you have, if the price is cheap enough.

Uhhh, re-read my post. My old board didn't even USE a flame sensor. The newer boards require one, the old board doesn't, but you can't buy the old board anymore. The old board was fried. About 8 resistors were toast, and the area around those resistors is all black from the board over-heating. The board wasn't putting out the correct voltage, which is why the ignitor wouldn't light. Soldering in new resistors "might" have fixed the problem (though the board itself was probably damaged), but they were so cooked the resistance strips were gone, and detailed diagrams for a board like that isn't exactly easy to come by.

I've seen enough Samsung DLP's to know I'm not all that impressed with them. IMO the picture just isn't all that great. I will say the newest generations in the stores look pretty good, but god forbid these stores show these TV's on anything but true HD content.

IT'S FIXED. But boy was it an expensive fix. Sam, I called that number, but Suzanne wasn't in. I mentioned your name to the lady working there, though. She looked up the part, but said she didn't have it in stock. I went to a place in Reynoldsburg, they wanted $350 just for the board, and $70 for the flame sensor (which I didn't think I needed....more on that). I found a place in Grove City that had a board in stock for $250. Bought that up, pulled the old, wired this new one. It was somewhat different, as my board hasn't been used for while. Get it all running, flames come up and....shit. Stays on for 5 seconds then turns off. I take a look a the diagnostics steps, and yup, requires a flame sensor for my board, even though the documentation w/ the board said it was un-needed for this serial number series. Go BACK to Grove City, get my part (now $310 total spent), mount and wire up the sensor, and I now have heat. After looking at the old board, you can see where a bunch of resistors are cooked, and the board is scorched. I can only imagine how badly I would have been raped had I called someone out to fix this problem. My guess is $600-700. Sucky way to spend a vacation day, but better than shelling out crazy cash to an HVAC guy to do something I'm more than capable of doing myself.

If it makes you feel even better, the fastest LT1 out there (8 flat @ 170 I think now), a stock-style suspension car no less, runs a PTK kit. That's what I'll run if I ever go turbo w/ my Formula, everything I have seen from them looks top notch.

Ehh, I think I have it narrowed down already. Upon further inspection, there is a step-by-step troubleshooting diagram on the circuit board cover. It seems the input voltage for the hot surface ignitor is supposed to be 115V AC when it goes through its power cycle. Instead, on the off cycle, it sits at 13-15V, and on the power cycle, it sits at 77V AC. I tried it a little later, and only showed 18V on the on cycle. Looks like it might be the circuit board...lucky me. Assuming I can get an identical board, it shouldn't be hard to replace. To ensure the multimeter was correct (it's a good Craftsman one), it shows 0V when not hooked up, and a steady 120V when shoved in an electrical socket.

Alright, so I turn it on again this morning. It is the ignitor, or something that controls the ignitior, for sure. After a minute, I notice this red glow (ignitior kicking on), when the furnace does the relay click for the gas....ignition. Furnace has now kicked on (thank f'ing god). Since the ignitor came on and glowed red, I'm guessing a bad relay or something in that regards. I'm sure I can fix this myself, but any guidance would be appreciated.

Because life is fair right now, my furnace decided to shit the bed. It's a Rheem Criterion. The blower motor works fine. If I switch the fan from auto to on, it kicks on as well. The unit has an auto-ignition pilot, which I think is the problem, as nothing ever lights up. I don't know anything about furnaces, but I'd like some heat......today. It's 59 in here right now, and I'm less than pleased. Am I better off buying the ignitor and swapping it, or hiring a pro? How much will a pro usually rape you (X-mas has drained my funds a bit). If I hire a pro, who should I call, and what is their normal pricing? I don't want to get ripped off.

If you ever have any WOW techs out to your house, make sure they replace that store-bought cable with one of ours. You probably aren't too bad off with ingress in Westerville, as the locals are far enough away unless the cabling is really bad. But are your 13 and 65 slightly grainy/snowy? 66 have any small waves in it? If so, that cable could definately be to blame. Or you could be lucky enough for it to be fine, but I'd get after one of my techs if they knew something like that was there and didn't replace it.

A 4-banger with a "cherry bomb" never sounds "awesome." Actually, it never sounds decent, good, or tolerable. The word shit comes to mind, however. Cool cars, though. I thought about getting one back when I was in HS, but never found any in good shape.

One of the cars my g/f is seriously considering. Make sure to get it loaded up with the heated/cooled seats and Nav. Sadly, you can only get the AWD w/ the 250, so she would be stuck w/ the small motor, as she will only buy AWD. We still gotta drive the G35x sedan and AWD 3-series before she can decide.

There is a reason for that...they suck. With ANY cable card, changing channels takes forever. Most TV's don't support any sort of guide information, can't order PPV through the card, and some TV's aren't even compatiable w/ all cable card setups. And all cable cards are HD; hell, I've yet to see one installed on a TV where HD services were not on the account as well. The only nice setup I've ever seen for a cable card was a Tivo 3 w/ dual cable card tuners. BUT, you have to pay for the Tivo service monthly, and I'm told the box itself is $800!!!!! But wi-fi transfer of movies off the box is awesome, great menus, great guide, etc. I train my guys when doing HD installs w/ a cable card to ALWAYS bring an HD box or HD DVR with them. 90% of all customers go w/ a box once the understand the limitations of the cable card technology.

That pic doesn't even do justice as to how shitty that car really looks. IMO that's a "GOOD" picture of that car.