Nitrousbird

These "stages" are just what the individual porter uses to say how much they are going to port your heads compared to their next stage. BUT, a Stage I at one place could be equal to a Stage II or III at another. For instance, GTP racing (who does some AWSOME head work) charged 2k for their Stage II LT1-ported heads (plus new valves and valve springs). Basically, ask around to find out if they do a good job porting or not, and ask what kind of flow numbers you'll get from the heads, then HAVE THEM FLOWED to make sure you get those numbers.

I assume you are talking about the Civic/Mustang owner Joe.....but there is more than one Joe on this website.

Tommy.....uhhhh....I've never ran no 200 bottle through my motor. That would be a HELL of a lot of nitrous!! Even figuring 3lbs left in the bottle, with my 15lb bottle, that would be 2400lbs of nitrous used. At $4 a lb, that would be close to 10k in nitrous spent. Even on a 150 shot, do you know how much I'd have to spray to go through that much freaking nitrous!!!!! A 35 shot isn't going to give much of a performance kick. And just slapping on a power adder and going (even with the safety stuff) is still a good way to end up with a broken car. Fudged transmissions and clutches, no traction, etc. are all part of the deal.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by BLACKBIRD99: For $3k, you should be able to get headers, exhaust and a Ford 9" rear end with your 4.10 gears. The more you mod, the less gas you'll have. I started noticing a mpg loss even when I opened up the breathing on the T/A. I have a 16.8 gallon tank and usually get 210-250 miles out of a tank depending on how much I drive it. So that's about 15mpg at best on a car that stock should get about 20mpg on average.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Adam.....that's all the better you get??? I would "think" your tank is the same size as mine, which is 15.5 gallons + fuel lines (which I think are approx .5 gallons). Even with all my mods, I still get around 250 miles to 14 gallons (try not to run he dry). And LS1's are not supposed to be as thirsty either. Are your plugs/wires in good shape? Fuel filter doing well? Unless you are going WOT 24/7, you should be getting better mileage than that.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Jedi Master: Nitrousbird, do you know which 3rd Gens came with the 8.5"? I'm guessing that the '89 Turbo TA did, any others? I've yet to break the rear end in my car, but I've been warned so darned many times about how weak it is. I know that Sam has a friend who ran 11's on one for a whole season before it finally called it in. So perhaps that point ought to be left more open. I just want people to be aware of what is generally considered the weak link of that car.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> The guy you are refering to is Sam's roomate Bryan. 11 second Z (NA 355), pulling high 1.6 to low 1.7 60's on a factory open rear ended 3.73 rear w/ BFG DR's. I can't remember if his is a 7 5/8 or 8.5" I'm not the person to be asking which rears came in which models, though......perhaps someone else knows specifically. But I just wanted to point out that even the 7 5/8" isn't THAT weak for the most part. Weak, yes, but the internet tends to make it seem like you are guaranteed to break it tomorrow or something. <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>James, I try to forget that both GM and Ford produced their "pony cars" with anemic 4 poppers. The 4 cyl Camaro/Firebird were discontinued after 1984, I think. Anyone have a clue on when the 4 cyl Fox body finally died? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Re-read my above post. Ford made the 4 bangers through 93 (I even test drove a 93 4-banger once for shits and giggles, what a dog). When they went to the SN95 body style, they went to the anemic Ford 3.8L V6.....that thing was a dog too (I hear the 99+ V6's are a lot better).

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 75Datsun280Z: And lets not forget the 4 cylinder 3rd gen Camaros are worthless too (yes, I had to mention them too, and yes, they made them, there's a few in J.C. Radiator now).<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Well, if you are going to mention that.....let's not forget to mention that the Fox Body Mustangs were offering 4 bangers as the base engine all they way up through 93. I'll give Ford credit a bit there though, had they actually offered a V6, I bet there would be less 4.9's on the road (yes, a 302 is reall a 4.9, not a 5.0 ). People went out to buy a Fox body, drove the 4 cylinder, and said "I'm going to need that V8 over there." As for the 3rd Gens....not all of them came with the 7 5/8" 10-bolt.....some came with the 8.5" 10-bolt. As for the 7 5/8" (commonly known as 7.5") being too weak to rely on in the 12's....I don't really agree with that. The 4th Gens are supposed to have a weaker one than the 3rd gens. Sam runs 12's in his without problems.....I was running 12's in mine trouble free too....then I swapped to a 12-bolt and sold my 10-bolt. And we have stick cars, which are MUCH harder on the rear-end. He runs DR's and that's what I used to run too. I'd say with an auto, a 7 5/8" is pretty much good into the 11's without worry, as long as you don't run DOT or full slicks on it.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Potentn2o: Hooker headers are not Jet-Hot coated. Hooker does their own coating and god only knows what they use. I have seen Hooker headers flake and rust sitting on the shelf. If i remember right Hooker does not offer a lifetime warranty on their coatings (Jet-Hot does). If a manufacturer has Jet-Hot coat their headers they will usually advertise this fact such as Dynomax does and will pass on the lifetime warranty to you that is offered by Jet-Hot. If you have a problem with the coating on the Dynomax stuff, Dynomax will exchange of refund the headers and then Dynomax collects from Jet-Hot under Jet-Hot's lifetime warranty program.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Uhmm...yeah, but my Hooker LT's ARE Jet-Hot coated. They were even drop-shipped from Jet-Hot, in a big Jet-Hot box, with Jet-Hot paperwork and everything. smile.gif And Dynomax doesn't make a header worth putting on an LT1. Other than modded or custom headers, Hooker LT's are THE best LT1 header out there. I realize that Hooker's own coating sucks (hence the reason I paid more for Jet-Hot's), since Hooker only coats the outside with some cheap coating. As I said, if Jet-Hot wants to offer to take my headers on/off for me and re-coat them, by all means. Otherwise, I guess I'll wait until I pull the motor and send them back to be re-coated.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by LoudLude: really? I am surprised. When were they originally coated? I would call them, I thought they had some sort of garantee?.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> They can guarantee all they want, but there is NO WAY I'm pulling those freaking headers until its time to pull the motor (which better not be for a while!!). Not exactly an easy job getting them in there....my hands took a while to stop bleeding from that damn install!!! Now if they offered to have them professionally removed, re-coated, and re-installed, then........ smile.gif But I don't see that happening, so I'll live with them as-is.

My Hooker Long Tubes are Jet Hot coated. Sadly, the coating isn't holding up as well as I had hoped. It does help keep the heat down a lot, though!