Nitrousbird

Now import injectors may be a little different, but here is what I've learned about the "Bosch" style used on domestics (used on GM and Ford V8's, among others). Basically, how a high-impedance injector works, is that it grounds the one side, and basically pushes 12V across the injectors, causing the injector to open and close based on if voltage across it. Current draw is about around 1amp. A low impedance injector is also known as a peak and hold injector. The pintle, or whatever the call it, gets heavier the bigger the injector gets. So it needs more voltage to open it. Now if you would just toss on a low impedance injector onto a standard high-impedance setup, the injector would pull a straight 3-6 amps each time voltage was applied. This would burn out the injector driver, the injector coil, or both. Low impedance drivers are designed to allow that large amount of current to snap open the injector, then a constant 1 amp to keep it open (how the driver does this I'm not quite sure). The reason you don't see really large high impedance injectors is because they begin to get sloppy and slow opening, due to the pintle being too heavy to snap open under just 1amp of current draw. I'd assume the reasoning behind most cars having high impedance injectors and drivers from the factory is due to cost of the injectors and complexity of the driver circuit. I know for my style of injectors, low impedance are signficantly more expensive. And to run them, I need to either run an aftermarket PCM OR an add-on injector driver box. On my style, high impedance goes up to around 52lbs (rated differently than import injectors; I'm not sure of the conversion factor). Though after about 44lbs, they tend to start getting nice and sloppy, and you are better off going low impedance. Not sure if that helps or not, but might give you something to think about.

Yes Anthony, please lay down the crack pipe.

Actually, I've never really messed with injectors before, since I've never needed bigger ones until now. And sadly, I don't even know if that's my problem....I was just looking for a simple way to tell if they were all working or not. The car has a miss I just can't sort out, and I've pretty much went through everything ignition related. All I do know is my long term block learns are maxed out on the passenger side (at pretty much every cell I could get the PCM to go into), and the O2 values on that side tend to be lean....but not all the time. Grrrr..... I guess I'll try just yanking a wire and seeing if that makes a difference on how the car runs. My cam lopes a lot, so it makes it REALLY hard to tell at idle...and hell, even at higher RPM's, unless the car is under load. I'm pretty sure the injectors themselves are fine (I've tried a couple sets, since the 24# SVO's I had were not going to be big enough anyway, so I tossed in 30's), but I have not checked resistances yet. I don't have a light, though I guess I could toss the multimeter on the injector wires and look at voltages. I guess I'll do that tomorrow.....I'd sure like to be able to drive the car again sometime!!

I am having a feeling that I might have an injector not firing, or only firing when it feels like it. I know you are "supposed" to be able to do it with a screwdriver against the injector and put your ear up to it, but my car is pretty loud and I don't think that trick will work. So if anyone has one I can borrow I'd really appreciate it. smile.gif

A TH-350 or TH-400 will fit; they sell crossmembers for it too. smile.gif Of course, you'll need a new DS regardless. Engine will require some work to get in there, and getting the gauges to work with it may be a nightmear. Might as well put a good rear end in there while you are at it, since an open 10-bolt isn't gonna do you any good, and tossing money into gears and a Posi for a 10-bolt is just throwing money into the wind. Basically said, this won't be a cheap project.

Hub nuts....for some reason, I'm sure hub nuts require a little more than 200 inch/lbs. smile.gif When I had to replace the half shaft on my CRX (imagine that ), we couldn't get the damn nut off even with a long pipe used as a breaker bar. Instead, had to go to the shop my roomate's dad worked at, and he had to break out the big expensive impact w/ the huge compressor behind it to break that mo'fo' free. Hub nuts are supposed to be tight!

The 30#'ers are sitting here right now. I need to work on some other issue (I'm thinking O2 sensor related) before I toss them in. Always something to do to the car.

I don't have a job anymore. Getting laid off really kills the mod fund. That, and since I want to keep my fuel pressure stock, I really have no need for one yet. As for my injector question, its a moot point now. I got enough money to get a set of 30#'ers now, and a guy from my car club is selling his SVO 30# injectors, so I'll have those tomorrow.

Right now, the fuel system is bone stock. I HAVE to add a fuel pump (I'll be doing a 255lph intank) to run the nitrous. W/ that fuel pump, the fuel system is good for around 700RWHP. LT1's come w/ pretty decent fuel systems stock. smile.gif My fuel pressure is 36 psi at idle, 44 psi at WOT (stock settings, I have a fuel pressure gauge in the car). Fuel pressure doesn't drop at all, that's where it is supposed to be. Stock fuel system is supposed to be good for a heads/cam + bolt-ons car, other than the injectors. I did some more research (after getting those 24# SVO's ), and most guys running ported heads and a CC306 cam (its large hyd. roller) end up bumping their fuel pressure up to about 50psi at WOT (but, I don't have an adjustable FPR, and really don't want to buy one just now). As for having injectors cleaned at $25/injector. For that, its about enough to buy a new set, and more than enough to get a used set of injectors.

Okay, I tossed in a set of used SVO injectors that I got off the net into my car, and reprogrammed the PCM for the injectors, using the proper calculated size (since Ford rates their injectors weird). Ever since I did that, the car started running like total ass, almost like I pulled a couple plug wires. (and for those that don't know, L98/LT1/LS1's and 5.0's all use the same type of Bosch style injector). Well, I yanked those, and tossed in the stock injectors out of my roomate's 96 SS, since I sold my stock 24# GM injectors. These only have 30k on them. Well, the car runs fine w/ these stock injectors. The problem is, these are just not big enough for my heads and cam. Here is question #1: - While running my scanning software on the car, I noticed that its running pretty rich. Nothing off the scale, but is rich for sure. - Making a couple WOT runs, I noticed that my injectors go to 100% duty cycle at 5700 RPM. Ouch; not good since my cam is good for 7000, perhaps even a tad more w/ all my top end goodies, though I'll never shift above 6800-7000. - BUT, as the RPM goes up past 5700, the injectors actually flow less, because they were already flowing their max, and now they have less time to flow due to the higher RPM (hence the reason why high-reving cars have such large injectors). Now, what if I watch my O2's carefully, and figure out what RPM is the limit, how the car is currently tuned, where the car is pretty much stoich or the slightest bit lean (basically, around 890-900mv). I made one run where I hit the rev limiter (I forgot to change in from 6300 I used to have it set at). It wasn't lean when I hit it. I don't plan on racing or running nitrous like this, but as long as I set rev-limiter right, do you think it will be safe running the injectors at 100% duty cycle that long?? Basically, so I can get on it here and there when I feel frisky on the street until I can get another set of injectors (I'm feeling REAL poor right now, and probably for another week or two). Then I'll go w/ a set of 30# injectors. QUESTION #2. Is there any place locally that can clean/test/repair injectors at a GOOD price. I'm pissed these are fudged up as it is, but I bought them so long ago, I don't even remember who I got them from (they were used). They are 24# SVO's (which are equivalent to a 26.5# normally rated injector). I want to go 30#, because I think these are going to be a little too much on the edge, seeing how I'm going 100% duty cycle so soon now, and I don't want to tax my fuel system (and fudge up my nitrous jettings) by bumping the fuel pressure up. But I need to sell my SVO's to pay for a set of 30# (or bigger) injectors.

I have two very different items that need welded. Item #1. Got my boat running yesterday (89 Sea Ray w/ 3.0L Mercrusier I/O), and it ran great except the motor was leaking water. Took off the exhaust/intake manifold (they are a single unit, as boats water cool their exhaust), and I found a thin, 8" crack in the block that water is coming out of. I need some who can weld blocks. Its an iron block. The motor does NOT need to come out of the boat to weld it; there is a TON of room around the crack to work (that motor is cake to work on ). Its towards the upper portion of the block; IMHO, it looks like a pretty easy weld job, but since I don't really know how to weld, that's really not my call. Item #2. This is for my car. On the back of my fuel rail, there is a fuel test port that is a 4AN connection. This is where my fuel for my nitrous is tapped into. Sadly, its not a very strong connection, and this last time of taking off the line, the fitting snapped. I've been told it can be TIG welded back on. I have both the old fitting, or I could buy another 4AN fitting to have welded on to it. I DESPERATELY NEED THIS WELDED ON ASAP. Just half the fuel rail is over $200 from a highly discounted dealer, and since I'm not unemployed, that's a no-go. I called every junk yard in Columbus, and that's a hell-no item. This is the one item that's keeping me from finally getting my car running after the heads/cam project. Anyone that can help, PLEASE call me: 325-8752. Yes, I WILL pay you to do a good job!!! Don't post back/e-mail me, since I don't have internet at my new house yet, so I won't be able to check it for a day or two. If the world were fair, I'd like to get the fuel rail done tomorrow, and the block done by at least next Wed., so that I can take the boat out next week (the hell if I'd want to take it out this weekend; the lakes are CRAZY on the holidays). Yes, I can tow the boat to anywhere it needs to go to get welded, I just need it done!

CCA will butt-rape you in prices (at least everything I've ever had priced out there). I had my alarm installed at Mobile Electronics; it works, but is a pretty basic alarm too. Was around $300 if I remember right; took the arseholes forever to install it...made some claims about the power locks on my car being weird; whatever. I was there the whole time, so I know he wasn't joyriding in the car, lol. I tried installing one in my Blazer. I got the actuators working really well, and got the relay's working, but still can't get the f'ing brain to operate the relays (I think it might be fried...likes to do some other weird stuff too). Its an alarm I had from a while ago I ripped out of my Camaro before trading it in, so I can't exactly take it back.

Here are some other questions that need to be asked: - Will this be your street tire?? Or a run at the track/set-up races type tire?? - If its your regular street tire, how much are you worried about tread wear?? If its not going to be a street tire, just skip the DR's and go straight to a MT ET Street or Hoosier QTP. This will do FAR better than any drag radial can. Match it up with a set of skinnies for weight reduction, better weight transfer, and less rolling resistance. I desperately need to get a set of skinnies for the strip...that alone would help me shave 50+ lbs (literally) of unsprung weight off the front...probably good for a couple tenths. smile.gif If you wanna go the Nitto DR route, their regular 555's match up well. Also, they make a road-race tire now, with the same tread as the DR, but with a stiff sidewall. But the only tire size available is 275/40/17...which is a popular Vette/F-body size. That tire would probably do alright at the strip too. I may actually get a set of these for street tires once my Kumho's wear out.

Well, I only have experience with nitrous on my car (and cars similar to it ), so I can only help based on that....though a lot of it is the same regardless of cars. 1. Get a window switch 2. GET A WINDOW SWITCH. Don't THINK about running without it, unless you LIKE to throw pistons through your block. And I don't care if you are running some "amazing" Supra 3.0L with forged everything....you start hitting fuel cut-off with the nitrous spraying, and you'll see exactly how the motor doesn't handle it. Also, shooting at two low of an RPM can cause the car to detonate badly. 3. Fuel pressure safety switch, or at least something to monitor your fuel pressure. Lack of pressure + shooting nitrous = kaboom. 4. Make sure the nozzle sprays a direct path into the throttle body 5. Some people will disagree with me, but I highly suggest running a WOT switch. The whole button thing can get tricky and allows for error. With my car's PCM, it will run closed loop until approx 75%; above that, it will run in power enrichment mode (normally, and incorrectly, refered to as Open Loop....similar, but uses different tables). You don't want to spray in closed loop. The past 2 years I ran just the regular mechanical window switch (all it does is complete the circuit). But now NX offers one that hooks up to the TPS sensor of my car, so I may use that instead this season. smile.gif Nothing wrong with my current setup, other than it pulling the damn wire out on occassion (which is what ruined my best run last season). Always play is safe with nitrous. Testing solenoids on a regular basis is a smart idea, as is always closing the bottle when not in use, purging the nitrous out of the system when not being used, watching your a/f ratio's, etc. In all honesty, if I was running forced induction AND nitrous; I'd run a seperate fuel cell for the nitrous enrichment, using 110 unleaded to help prevent any detonation problems. But that's just me. smile.gif

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by SamZman: I'll 3rd the above and vote on clutch.. Atleast from your description. Time for an ACT clutch. The stock clutch was the first thing to go on my Talon once I turned up the boost <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> No Sam...the first thing to go would have been the motor, lol (not to laugh at your misfortune.......)

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by kenny: Woah... stock internals, lots of NAWS and now yellow painted parts, are you sure you're not a closet ricer? tongue.gif<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Bastard....its okay for the Supra boys to run stock internals...but then the V8 guys do it and its bad?? Gee, the poor car has ran 11's!! And yes, I have yellow parts. Its a contrasting color to green, ya know...and damn it, I like the color. Its not like the car screams yellow or anything, and sure as hell ain't stickercharged. My STB is powerdercoated yellow. My rear-end is painted yellow. I have some yellow wire-loom too; sorry, I like the color. Actually, I think I should have went with the silver theme instead, but too late now. Ahh, fudge it.....I learned my lesson, yellow paint SUCKS to work with. Red would have been nice too, but I was avoiding the Christmas Tree theme. tongue.gif

Just another note....never, EVER paint with High Temp yellow. I don't care if the crap says self priming, the good stuff, or whatever, don't do it. It will take about a million coats to look decent!!! But yeah, a good high temp paint should do the trick, followed by some high temp clear.

** Note to self: she will NOT be working on my car. ** I always enjoy installing plates on cars without brackets, or when you never have the right size bolt on hand.....there is a reason the plate on my boat trailer is held on be zip ties; hey, it worked great, and allows the plate to flex a bit when it goes underwater to keep it from bending.

I have a book at home that covers a lot of 80's Turbo cars; I'll have to take a look at it and see what all motors are available for that car. I do know around that time is when Maserati started doing some projects with Chrysler. I am betting parts for that car are a bit pricey; I do like the styling. IMO, that would be the type of car I'd have to see in person first. Interior is a bit super 80's from what I can see, but I've seen MUCH MUCH worse (80's 30ZX for example; PURE 100% super 80's interior!!).

I never had a wheel hop problem at the strip, but I used to have one on the street on certain bad pavement conditions. A Panhard rod won't do anything for wheel hop (it just basically keeps the rear centered). What eliminated mine (which normally wasn't too bad) was new lower control arms and my Spohn solid mount adjustable torque arm. That probably made the most difference.

Yeah, do a blown 502 with a RWD conversion.

I've been running Performance Friction pads for a while now and like them. Once the heads/cam project is done, next I'll be adding a 13" Baer Trak Pack with slotted (and if they warranty them, cross-drilled) zinc washed rotors, with matching rotors out back. Not sure what pads I'll be going with....but the car is going to stop freaking HARD.

Ahhhh....engine to build. Actually, I'll be doing that next year, and depending on how much money I have at the time will = what I will build. If on a not-tight budget, I'd probably do (and this is an off the top of my head, some parts would change for sure list): LT1 383, forged everything AFR 230 heads, heavily ported 8.5:1 compression Solid roller cam, in the .600 range Parallel twin turbo setup, with 15-20 of boos All the other stuff to go along with it (port matched LT4 intake, upgraded fuel system, etc.) Of course, that's a lot of money. Kenny: why such a small cam and such low compression?? Especially with a nitrous car, they LIKE compression. Hell, stock LT1's are running 10.4 (or is it 10.5, can't remember, today has been hard on the brain). Hell, most guys building NA/Nitrous LT1 motors for the street got at least 11.0:1....and still run pump gas. Gotta love the reverse flow cooling system.

I'd love to know why they would put an Optima Yellow top up there!! Does the car draw so much power that they need that HEAVY, deep cycle battery in the worst place they could put it??!!! I have nothing against the battery; hell I'll be adding one shortly, but I also have a system, and will also be running my fans and electric waterpump when the car is off at the track for extra cooling. Otherwise, its all fine and dandy I guess, but its sad that manufacturers are are focusing on damn 4 banger race cars. Because that Cavalier has about as much in common as the one running in Funny Car.

Since my car is Opti-spark equipped, I DO NOT spray my motor down. Instead, soapy water and a rag for the really dirty spots. Follow this up by a non-soapy wet rag rinse. Everything else: regular Armor-All and a clean rag; that stuff does WONDERS in an engine bay. Even spray it on spots you can't get to, and it normally cleans them up pretty well. Of course, I'm not overly anal about cleaning my engine bay either; if it looks decent, that's good enough for me. smile.gif