Nitrousbird

Matt, do a search on CZ28's advanced forum (do a search, don't post...this has been covered before). You can run FAST, DFI, and a couple fast guys are also running MotoTec (more expensive though). You really are listening to much to internet garbage; the Opti isn't that bad. Hell, George Baxter was still using it on his 1200 HP Supercharged 383. He was using it for cam positioning only (the low voltage side), and using I belive coil packs for actual plug firing. You can now buy the LPCC converter to run LS1 coil packs w/ the Optispark. It is also possible to run a cam-sync device in place of the Opti (with aftermarket PCM of course), but it really isn't necessary. The Opti isn't as bad as some want to make it out to be. Also, you really need to have a pretty heafty motor before an aftermarket PCM becomes necessary; the LT1 PCM is a pretty capable piece. There are ass-loads of 10 second LT1's running re-programed factory PCM's....I believe there are a few in the 9's still running the factory PCM as well. And for the record, you CAN run a conventional distributor w/ an LT1...problem is, the factory PCM WILL NOT work without the Optispark. It requires the low-voltage sync pulses to fire the injectors. I'm not positive if that is true with the 92-93 Speed density, batch fire LT1's. Regardless, unless you have a pretty intense LT1, you are wasting your money going to an aftermarket PCM.

As Sam said, it is all about the money. If you have a bottomless wallet and swaping in a motor to something, you'd be a retard to buy EITHER. You'd go with a Gen-I SBC, nice aftermarket block, FAST, MoToTec or another nice aftermarket PCM, maybe some 15 or 18 degree heads, etc. Otherwise, block work on an LS1's is fawking EXPENSIVE. Seems getting head work done on an LS1's isn't nearly as cheap as an LT1 either. Hell, most parts are cheaper for an LT1. I've also heard bolt pattern for the heads on the LS1 isn't as strong as the GEN-1 and II SBC's (probably do to their different intake/exhaust valve setup). Now building an IRON block LS1 shortblock is significantaly cheaper, but there goes some of your weight savings. And I swear, the whole Optispark thing is taken WAY out of hand. Sure, they are not the most reliable things, but its not like they go out every 3k miles. Yes, you CAN get rid of it (for a price), but hell, some of the fastest LT1's are STILL running it (usually just for the low voltage optical side of it).

smile.gif I'll take care of that........

Moving to the TECH forum........

Moving to the tech forum.........

Moving to tech. smile.gif

Well, like Mark said, you will help wear off any uneven spots. You don't want to spin and glaze a new disc. Also, any oils that may have gotten on the disc also get worn off as well (I try to refrain from touching the disc's friction surfaces, and clean the flywheel and Pressure Plate prior to install). Spinning and glazing a new clutch isn't exactly a "good" thing.

Well, hmmmm. #1 would work, then decide not to work for a minute or so a couple of times. Then one time, it just stopped working totally. #2; one day, I try to start the car and nothing. Unhooked it, started fine. Didn't mess with it for a while (was dealing with other problems at the time). Finally got everything situated, hooked it back up. Try to start the car, and smoke starts rolling from it. #3 is still working; started the car yesterday and let her run for a while, and it is still good to go. When it dies, it kills all spark, nothing, zip, zilch. But how would that kill your motor?? That's like just shutting the car off, basically. It may dump fuel, but no spark = really rich. No spark = no combustion = no detonation = apex seals have a chance of surviving a tad longer. I have my fingers crossed that #3 is a charm. I've been less than pleased with MSD. Their wires, at least for LT1 applications, are pretty shitty. Their GM-style coils are prone to very early failure, though mine is exception to that rule and has lasted. And it seems some of their ignitions are not all that reliable either. I've heard Mallory also makes an ignition similar to the Digital 6 as well that people have been very pleased with. But Berto, since you are running a forced induction car, wouldn't a 6BTM be something you should be more interested in? I haven't heard of many people having problems with the non-digital 6 series ignitions (like the 6A, 6AL, 6BTM, etc.).

I run the Digital 6+ box. I'm both happy and very unhappy with the box. It has some great features, looks good, doesn't require those damn pills to adjust the rev limiters, spark retard, etc. BUT, reliability of the thing has been, well, less than pleasing. My first box lasted 2 years, then just died out of the blue. The second one lasted only a few months. I'm now on the third, but I haven't used it much, so who knows how long this one will last. MSD's warranty dept. has been really good about it. The warranty is only for a year. I sent mine back, figuring I'd have to pay whatever they quoted me the first time I sent it back. Instead, they sent me a brand new unit, free of charge. Second time I sent it back, I told them I only had it for a few months, sent it back, and again they sent me a brand new one free of charge. Sadly, I think this is a common occurance with this unit. Friend of mine bought a used one, ran it for a year, and his randomly died too. His was in a 96 S-10, hardwired. Mine is in my Formula, using their wiring harness. If mine dies again, I'm done with it. I'll have them send me ANOTHER new one, sell it, and spend the extra $$ and go to the LS1 coil pack setup.

Best advice in this thread. If you want to mod something, get something worth modding! Otherwise leave it stock...nothing wrong with having a point A to point B car.

Ditch it and toss in a T-56. The T-56's 450ft/lb rating has been proven time and time again to be very conservative. Hell, I've personally put well more than that through it time and time again, mine is still bone stock (other than a an SLP shifter w/ Lou's Short Stick....like that matters). There is a reason Ford finally got wise and tossed this tranny into the 03 Cobra (I think they also put it in the 00 Cobra R, not positive). This tranny has been put into the 9's before, and is as streetable as they come (hell, more so than most, figuring you can run some insane gearing behind it, yet still be able to cruise on the highway w/ such a low 6th gear).

Ding ding ding, we have a winner. In car audio, many times you get what you paid for. You do find a few items that give a much better bang for the buck than expected, though (such as Audiobahn subs). When comparing retail prices, you really do get what you paid for. And if you are comparing anything you get at Circuit Shitty, Best Buy, etc....well, sorry about that. smile.gif Put that little MTX Digital amp against my Memphis 1000D, and you'll see exactly why my amp is more expensive. As for this little Infinity in question (BTW, Infinity has never really impressed me; there are better options out there for the price), it sounds like a gimmick device. Never heard of it, but I'm sure I wouldn't want to use it. If you want real bass, even if just clear and full but not loud, you need an enclosure, sub, and amp. Period.

My god, what kinda of crack-head price is that?? You should be able to get a heavily built 9" for less than that! Hell, my 12-bolt (which tends to be slightly more expensive than a comparable 9") only cost me $2400 shipped. And that's a fully loaded Moser unit w/ 33 spline hardened axles, heavy duty Eaton Posi, heavy duty cover, 3-channel ABS, 1350 yoke, C-clip eliminators, everything set up and ready to go, other than pressing the provided axle bearing on the axles and filling her up w/ gear lube. Had I went w/ a spool and no ABS (and I would have if this car was more drag oriented), it would have cost a lot less.

Yeah, it will fit. You saw the video posted of the LS1 powered FD in the common section, right? C5-R block and heads are the same outward size, so that would fit. Intake has to be custom because there is no production intake for the C5-R heads. Note that my above suggestion is not the most cost-feasible plan in the world, lol...acutally, far from it, but it would make some insane power N/A if done right (I'd bet 550-600 RWHP w/ a good solid roller, tuning, and properly ported heads and matching intake), then add a healthy shot of nitrous to that. All aluminum motor should keep the weight down a lot.

I have a garage, and a built in large gas heater. Problem....can't tell where in the flying FAWK you turn the gas to the freaking heater on. It isn't where the valves for the stove, furnace, and water heater are; ugh. Gas line goes from the garage, runs into the wall, then that's the last you see of it.

Cool Kyle....I suggest them, you buy them. My next suggestion is a 427 C5-R block w/ worked over C5-R heads, custom intake manifold, solid roller, backed by a T-56. Let's add a 250 shot of nitrous for good measure. I'll assume you'll get right on that.

I know the HPS Project Car is running 315/35/17 RII's mounted on 17x11 Fiske FM/5's for the rear street tires. You may want to contact them and ask about where/how they got their rear tires.

The RII's stiffer sidewall is for handleing, nothing more. Basically, when the car is cornering hard, the sidewall stays stiff, less tire distortion and less lean around corners (sure, it isn't by much, since the Nitto DR sidewall isn't THAT soft), but still makes a difference. Otherwise, the tread compound and tread patterns are the same. One of Nitto's biggest reason for offering the RII was that people were using their DR's in auto-x/road racing. Though their sticky nature allowed them to be a little better than a regular street tire, they were not designed to be doing this.

Hmmm, it isn't listed on the Nitto Website. The stiff sidewall tire I'm refering to is NOT the Nitto DR (though it looks almost identical to it, same tread and all). It is called the Nitto 555 Extreme RII. They have been out for probably a year now. Nitto first released them in a 275/40/17 only, and GMHTP magazine was one of the first to test them out a while back. I know they also offer them in a 315/35/17, as I've seen that size also featured on another magazine car featured a few months ago. I've heard of a few road-racers on CZ28 running them. Looking on the net, there isn't a whole lot I could find about them doing a quick search. This place carries them, but doesn't list any sizes or links to them, just lists the 555-RII Scanned ad from a Discount Tire ad, even though they aren't listed on their website. This is the ad from when they FIRST came out, so of course only the one size is listed. I can look for my GMHTP article covering these tires. They actually did a full track testing on them, and did some comparisons to the Kumho Victo Racer (though the Victo isn't a tire you'd want to use as a regular street tire). I've found a few cars on the net, mostly F-body's, running on these tires. They are still just too new, and may not come in a size you can use. I suggest visiting a Discount Tire, talking to someone knowledgable there, and asking about the sizes offered in the 555 RII (making SURE they realize you are talking about the ROAD RACE tires and NOT the Drag Radials).

I ran my Nitto's for over a year of daily driver use and probably 30-40 passes (guestimation, I really have no idea how many) down the strip. I put 8,610 miles on mine (then I sold those rims). When I got rid of them, the belt was just starting to show in the center, with the outsides still having some tread left. Many people don't realize that these tires need to be ran at a lower pressure than your average street tire to get an even treadwear. 24psi is actually a good pressure to run on the street with these. I made the mistake of running 28-30psi, and they wore out in the centers first. Of course no snow use (I'm not suicidal), but I never had a problem in the rain with them, even when they were worn down....car was my daily driver at the time. Dunno, driving in incliment weather never really bothered me, though. I also abused the piss out of these tires. Had I used the proper tire pressure, I woulda got 10k out of them before the belts shown I'm sure, maybe a bit more. Had I not used them at the track, w/ the proper tire pressure, 15-20k is possible (remember, you drive these PAST the wear bar....they are sticky even when they are bald). Actually, my next set of tires will be similar, though I'll be getting the 555 Road Race tires (it is a Nitto DR w/ a stiff sidewall). Kyle, you may actually want to consider these instead.

Human mind + GOOD CNC program + good die grinder clean-up = even better. smile.gif

I can't remember; are 2nd Gens Unibodys or full-framed?? I know 1st gens are full framed, and 3rd gens are unibodys, but can't remember on the 2nd gens. If it is a full frame car, I don't think there would be a big need for reinforcement of the frame. My biggest concern would be the A-pillars.

I'm sure the stock T5 and stock clutch would just LOVE that idea, lol.

I was just shown that link from Suprastore, in no way was I considering buy it from there (or buying it at all, since I'm freaking broke). I like the whole gauge setup the Greddy has, along with the price, but at the same time, I would want it for both monitering AND tuning purposes. Obviously, this is not the best choice. A $1000 wideband....no, I'll pass. Sure, down the road when I can afford to go to an aftermarket PCM (FAST, Motec, or per DFI 7), I'd want to add a wideband option, but not for a stand-alone. Building one is another option, of course, and one I may consider. I'll have to look into it more. I'm more than confident I could do it, but I'd like something I can nicely monitor real-time, all the time. I've heard the wideband sensors, running unleaded, are good for about 700 hours. That would last a long time as far as I'm concerned.....a couple years at LEAST. I was just seeing if the Greddy was any good; obviously not worth the investment (though the gauge sure looks cool).

http://www.suprastore.com/supra/gredairfuelk.html "How does the GReddy A/F kit differ from the A/F monitors that most people use today? The main differentiating factor is the GReddy kit comes with it's own higher band oxygen sensor which is rated at 1,500 hours on unleaded fuel. The GReddy kit also uses a more robust and hopefully more accurate voltmeter circuit. Combined you have a good product for under $300." What does "higer band" mean...that doesn't describe crap. How is the voltmeter circuit "more robust" and come on, "hopefully more accurate." There is a thread over on CZ28 asking about how accurate these things really are, and no one has tried one of THESE units yet. Their claim that the MoTeC Wideband meter costs $4000 is outrageous....the real price is about $1000. Still expensive, but not what they are claiming! 4k would buy the full engine management computer + the wideband option to it! FJO also sells a wideband kit, but again, $750 minimum, and $1000 to have some of the other features. So does the Greddy unit work....is it pretty much as good as a true wide band or not?