Nitrousbird

Just buy a bit of rubber hose and slide it over the end of the spring. At least that's the cheap man's solution, and it works. smile.gif

IMO, sell the car, and buy something that is a better base for modding. You could probably sell it and pick up an AWD 1G DSM for the same money. Do you really want to be another Honda guy slowing down the lanes at the track running a blistering 16-22 second 1/4 mile??

I personally wouldn't ever waste my money on LT4 heads unless I could get them used. For the price of them, you can spend a couple hundred bucks for and get yourself a set of AFR's. My roomates car, back when it was N/A, made 330RWHP (6-speed car) w/ that LT4 package (unported heads/intake, LT4 Hot Crap cam, 1.6 rockers). That was with mail order tuning, RK Sport 1 3/4" shortys, high-flow catted y-pipe, Borla, 58mm TB (but intake was not port matched for it), and stock SS intake. Car had a header leak and could have used some more tuning, but at most it would have maybe made 345 RWHP running perfectly. If I were to do it again, I'd definately go forced induction. It's not that hard to pull a motor. Do a budget 355 w/ a blower, or a turbo. The turbo will cost a bit more, but you get to offset a bit of that cost because you would most likely buy some good headers w/ a supercharger, where you of course you don't w/ a turbo. And don't forget, buying used can save you a large fortune! Either way, that's how I do it if I had the funds to do it over again. Not to say my current setup isn't fun (and goes down the 1/4 far quicker than any local rotary tongue.gif ). Screw it, make an N/A monster. 401 LT1 w/ Hogan intake, Arao Dominion 32 valve heads (fully worked over), 8 primary custom headers, MoTec sequential fire PCM, solid roller, etc. We won't discuss the price of such a project...........

Errr, yes/no. Many people don't realize that an electric waterpump normally flows LESS than a stock pump at WOT, but much more at lower engine RPM's. It's just a consistant flow at all times. This can sometimes cause problems for road racers, depending on the motor/cooling system. But IMO a water pump is not a place to spend your money. A radiator is a far better place to toss money into if you are having cooling problems. And I've noticed in the F-body world that a number of people do needless cooling system upgrades; I've seen 400HP cars getting cooling system upgrades, when the stock system is way more than adequate. Upgrade when your car NEEDS it, and start w/ the radiator. At least that's my opinion on the matter.

Ack, you folks and your "monster cams." My CC306: 230/244, .510/.540, 112 LSA (remember, the lift is for 1.5 rockers, and I have 1.6, so it's significantly higher). IMO I think its a pretty tame cam, very streetable. Great for a manual or a higher than stock stalled auto. I am actually starting to regret just not going w/ a full solid roller. Sure you gotta adjust the lash every 3-8k miles, but that and the cost of lifters are the only big downsides IMO, and otherwise making a bigger chunk of power with some hogged out heads and reving pretty high. I wish my cam was bigger, and many people think it's big. Does lope quite nicely at the stock idle.

It's a cutout, and pretty much any exhaust shop will do it after the cat. I have an electric cutout on mine. You do realize how shitty your car is going to sound with that, right? I'm talking embarassing, point and laugh shitty.

I had the choice between CSI, CVR, and Mezeirre (sp?). I chose CSI. Why?? None of the Fbody guys run the CVR because its more expensive than the other two and not proven. The Mez is $50 more than the CSI, yet has had problems with the electrical seals leaking and the unit frying. My CSI has been flawless. smile.gif That said, a waterpump is not a good place to look for HP IMO. The ONLY reason I have the CSI is because my car was heading toward the end of the life of the stocker, and I couldn't run the timing chain I wanted without an electric (LT1 stock waterpumps are cam driven).

What "Stage II" heads?? Remember, that is nothing but marketing BS, and there are some insane differences between "Stage II" heads between some head porters. Whoever did Adam Darron's heads obviously did a pretty decent job. I know a guy that is know for some very good LT1/LS1 head work I can put you in contact with. Will take a while to get them, his heads are usually on a couple month backorder....the kind of guy that would much rather not sell to you than put out a less that supreme product.

That LSA sounds really high (I think you misread, fat fingered the typing, or there was some wrong info given. tongue.gif ). Go do a search over on http://www.ls1tech.com

My sub amp is a Memphis 1000D. Has been an awesome amp, and has worked flawlessly for a couple years; I run it 2ohm mono (stable to 1ohm mono). One day, it just up and dies. Power/ground/remote all good. But the power light doesn't kick on, and no sound from it. So, I pull it out of the car, and hook it up to my test battery (which is putting out 12.5V). Whenever I hook up power and ground, the protection light blink on for about 3/4 of a second, then turns off, not to come back on unless I remove either power or ground, wait a few seconds, then reconnect them. If I take a wire from +12V to the remote terminal, the protection light will again come on, for about 1/2 a second, then after waiting a second, you can hear the internal relay kick on, and it doesn't kick off until you remove the voltage from the remote terminal. Yet the power light never comes on. Both 40V fuses are good. Pulled both, and that caused the fuse fault light to come on, so obviously that circuit is working correctly. I pulled off the bottom cover; nothing looks loose, damaged, or burned. I don't have the wiring diagrams or the proper tools to diagnose this problem. I know "take it to a shop" but I have no money to put into the car, and if I did, it would be going to something else. This needs to be a free or near free fix; otherwise it will sit on a shelf for a while. Any ideas would be appreciated.

I believe your plug is the same as mine; you are supposed to use a 9/16" socket on it. smile.gif

Well, I have 30# SVO injectors on my car, that counts for something, right?? Of course, I was dumb and reused the Ford O-rings (bought the injectors used), which were the cause of my car having a small fire last summer..................

Red is 30#.

Nitrous + platinum = bad idea. Nitrous can actually melt off the platinum, which isn't a nice thing. Copper only w/ the bottle. Besides, the Bosch +4's look very gimicky, and I haven't heard anything really positive about them.

As long as all the antenna wiring is intact and in good shape, I'd blame it on the head unit. I wouldn't put a Sony head unit in my beater, they straight up suck. I wouldn't say all aftermarket head units have bad radio reception. My Eclipse had great reception (freaking theives). The Premier in my Formula has good reception. The antenna isn't hooked up to the Pioneer in my Blazer, so the reception is non existant. The Kenwood in my boat seems to do pretty decently. The older Clarion I had did kinda suck for reception.

I have Jet-Hot coated Hooker LT's. Sadly, my coating has went to crap; it flaked totally of the collectors and looks like ass. Next time I pull the headers, I'm sending them back to be recoated; they are under warranty after all. Jet Hot also coats them inside and out, which is nice. It also significantly reduces temps from the headers, and is just an overall good idea. I've learned that if the headers are originally painted, and then ceramic coated, the coating doesn't stick as well. If I were going to do it again, I'd just get the Jet Hot brand long tubes; they made their own set for LT1's, which are basically an improved copy of the Hooker LT's.

Adam, easy way is to rotate your wheels front to rear. If the vibration moves, then it is the rim/tire you can blame. Or just toss on a different set of rims/tires (or even just one) and see if that makes a difference. I somehow bent the outside lip of one of my rims on my Blazer (aftermarket rims) slightly, but it has never caused any vibration problems. Sure it isn't a U-joint? Those will also cause vibrations.

Weren't those the years of the "Cease Fire" injection?? I think it really depends on the amount of money he has to spend, and the current condition of the motor. I mean, swapping in a 454 (or bored and stroked 454 ) is a nice idea, but then you gotta make sure the rest of the car is up to the task. I'd personally start w/ a fresh set of aluminum heads, roller cam, and good intake/carb. Something that won't destroy the bottom end, and will give a nice increase in power. Won't be the cheapest, but you also probably won't be tearing up the tranny/rear end in the process either.

Both NAPA and Autozone offer relays that may work for you. I got my 30amp relay I use for my electric water pump at NAPA. It usually gets a bit more difficult finding relays bigger than 30amp.

I don't feel like calculating it out, but since your car can't trap that high to begin with, 4.56's wouldn't be too high from a performance standpoint (you'd actually be able to use 4th gear at the track). Gas mileage and driveability will suffer.........

The Napa machine shop off of 104 had done a couple U-joints for me. Good prices (like $6 to install the U-joint), quick turn around, etc. That said, I know why you need a new U-joint (probably a Spicer 447X). You also have an LS1 driveshaft. You may want to heed my warning, since I've snapped an LS1 DS right in the center, and sell it now while it is still in good shape. Use that money towards another DS. I really like my Spohn steel DS; 1350 joints front/rear, very solid construction, I believe they slightly shorten them for 12-bolt applications (which is something a lot of people suggest doing), painted, and very well balanced. I'd say it is probably better balanced than my LS1 shaft was, which wasn't bad at all.

I'll just be moving this now

Drilling holes in my $600 hood (not including prep, paint, and shipping), even in the few braces it has, is NOT an option. Not for something like this. And I don't have any money, so this is a low cost type deal. As for 3an line....it's not exactly cheap. I'd rather stay away from that if possible. Berto's flare fitting idea works. What about just regular nylon tubbing. Though the nitrous coming out can be anywhere up to 1100psi, it is venting that pressure, not holding that pressure.

I have a NX dual vent purge kit. Originally, I had it doing the dual vent in front of the windshield. Well, I moved some stuff around, and to vent it in front of the windshield again, I'd have to buy new hardlines and re-bend them. No biggie, but I think I want to go a different route now. Since my car has a ram-air hood (WS6 hood), I want to do it out the nostrils. My problems: - Soft line. I obviously have to run a soft line, since it has to be able to bend when opening/closing the hood. But what kind of line. I haven't found much info on this yet, but I've heard that rubber line ends up freezing and cracking after a little while....nitrous is just too cold for it. I've also heard of using nylong tubbing; think that will withstand the cold? - Affixing the line to the hood. Drilling my hood is not an option. Double sided tape I'll assume will work. - I'll drill a small hole in the hood baffle for the line to stick out of. Since 1000psi of nitrous will be venting out of this spot, will it have a strong enough force to want to back it out of the hole (meaning, will some double sided tape be strong enough to hold it in place?). - For attaching it to the solenoid, I figured I would simply attach my hard lines, cut them short, and slip the soft line over the hard line. BUT....what size soft line will it need to be? Will the lines want to pop off, or will I have to come up w/ some tiny clamps to hold them there?

The goal with any car is to run the lowest octane you can WITHOUT detonation/needing to pull timing. The LS1 PCM I believe has a table (my OBD-I LT1 PCM does, so I'm sure it does as well) that basically detects low octane by knock counts from the sensor, and just pulls a large amount of timing. I tried running 87 in my car when it was stock. Doesn't hurt anything....BUT, it was down on power where you want it (down low for crusing and up top), and got worse gas mileage. The 20 cents/gallon cost savings between 87 and 93 was ate up in the lower gas mileage. Of course, my car is 10.5:1 stock. With a stock LS1, I'd probably stick to 89 at least. No need for 93-94, but 87 is probably a bit low.