Nitrousbird

Moving to tech.....

The T-56 is rated for 450 TQ as well....doesn't mean shizzle. My car has put down 588 RWTQ, and my tranny is just peachy. MANY people have put WELL more than that through the T-56 without an issue. Of course, a 4L60E != T-56 strength, by a long shot.

Just do it yourself. smile.gif Can't learn unless you go and dig in!

So 50% off means they get it for the same price I could get that stuff online. And Best Buy does not carry nice car audio stuff.

This is the kind advice that starts fires. Don't follow it. You'll be able to pull ass loads of current through a 10 gauge wire, but it's gonna get freaking hot. Too hot, and you start buring the sheathing. Get the idea? Also, hot wires are less efficient, causing a resistance in the wire = lower voltage to the amp. Lower voltage = lower power.

Every car is different....and it's all about the PCM. Some have better "speed density" tables than others, because that's what the car's forced into. And some trip lights for it, others won't. Obviously, you either have a bad MAF sensor, or some bad wiring.

Uhhh, step #1: Don't go to Best Buy for car audio. EVER. The majority of their stuff is straight up overpriced junk, and their techs are not exactly people I'd let near my beater, let alone my car. Secondly, you gave about as little detail as you possibly could have. WHAT KIND OF AMP DO YOU HAVE?? If it is some big Class A amp, then yes, 10 gauge is WAAAAYYY too small (of course, so would 8 gauge). Just a 4-channel mids-high's amp? Big sub amp? Regardless, the gauge of your power wire would not cause the amp not to kick on (as long as the volume and gains were not cranked). As long as you have power to the amp, usually the cause is: - Bad ground or - Bad remote Check those first. But they still could be right about you not running a big enough power wire; 8 gauge is the minimum I would install w/ pretty much any amp. Hell, I run 0 gauge in my car.

Disc brakes are very easy to do, so don't be giving a dealer another dime for that work. It is possible to warp a rotor if the wheels are torqued severly unevenly or way too much....ON SOME CARS. Others you can tighten each lug nut to 120 ft/lb each and not warp a dang thing. With pads it's a balance between 4 things: - Wear - Noise - How well they grab - Dust There is no perfect brake pad out there; a pad is always gonna give up one (or more) traits to improve another. A racing type brake may grab really well, but may suffer in the noise and dust dept. I've always used that spray-on anti-squeal stuff when doing pads. Quick and easy. I have Performance Friction pads on my Formula, and they are quiet and don't produce much dust. I haven't checked how badly they are wearing. But their wet-weather ability sucks balls, badly. Rotors get wet, and they have about 1/2 the braking force they usually do when dry.

Moving to the tech forum.....

I wanna learn more about this stuff. smile.gif I keep forgeting to ask Sam about it. I'm just not a "car care" kinda guy. I'm not a wash-o-holic, and I'm no fan of waxing. I've clay bared a couple of times (which I need to do again), and like the Zaino products. But my car needs a good buffing (okay, I'd prefer a new paint job, but that won't be happening). I have some scratches, swirl marks, etc. I'd like to get rid of. I want her to shine for a change. I have an orbital buffer somewhere (I think). But by hand is fine too. What products should I use? I think I have some 3M hand glaze around here, but I don't think that stuff is good for getting swirl marks out.

Yup, the S-series trucks already have a boxed frame, so they can take a beating. V8 swaps are VERY doable in these trucks. I tow w/ my 93 CPI 4.3L Blazer.....but it is plagued by the worst gears offered, the dreaded GU4 3.08's. But damn it, my truck car pull my boat out of even shitty ramps with ease, even without having a posi. smile.gif But otherwise, it sucks ass towing w/ that thing.....it REALLY needs some 3.73's back there, and I guarantee she would tow very nicely.

Just another reason why I run a wet kit. smile.gif

Anthony, you could also recalibrate your MAF instead by using a MAF translator, but it just makes more sense to reprogram the PCM (thank god we don't have to deal with that burning chips BS). Yes, lowering the fuel pressure (on a PCM that won't compensate w/ altered injector duty cycles) will work, but kinda defeats the purpose of putting in bigger injectors, since you won't be able to flow a larger amount of fuel. Also, if you get a non-Ford injector, remember that Ford rates them at a lower pressure than everyone else (basically, a Ford injector flows a little more than the same "sized" injector from a different maker; I have 30# SVO's in my car, and have them set for around 32.4#'s).

I'll say the Perma-Cool tranny cooler I put on my Blazer isn't exactly the best built unit in the world. I should spend the extra $5 and got the B&M unit. And my Flex-a-lite fan (mechanical fan), decided to throw a blade last week on the same stupid Blazer....another brand I'm less than pleased with right now. Not that either of these have anything to do with the price of tea in China. smile.gif

Which car?? Both have leather seats though, don't they?? Other than steam cleaning...uhhh, dunno, I'm worthless when it comes to this cleaning stuff, lol.

Moving to the TECH forum.... And my Kumho 712's have pretty decent warm weather traction on the street (and the one time I ran them at the strip a couple years ago, I sure did better than a 2.8 60' lol).

Also check the relay. When my roomate has his CRX, the relay would like to work sometimes and not others. Kept seeming like the fuel pump was going, but it ended up being a stupid relay that only worked some of the time. Now, I don't know if Ford does it the same way. W/ GM's, you have two systems for powering it, so if the relay goes, that doesn't mean the fuel pump dies, since there is another circuit that powers it up once the oil pressure gets to a certain level. Kinda a back-up circuit.

Yeah, I agree. smile.gif Besides, why not just put a new fuel pump in? It can't be that expensive. The factory replacement one I put in my Blazer was around $60, and my Walbro 255lph unit I have in my car was around $90.

Moving to the Tech forum.......

They sure turn better than your average FWD car. smile.gif Hell, the one time I went auto-xing (the one place FWD can shine), I actually ran faster than most of the FWD cars there. Not bad for being on those damn Kumhos. Sadly, I was last place (3rd) in my tiny class (SVO w/ "DOT slicks" was #1, #2 was my roomates SS on street tires and a road-race setup).

I have the Supra 712's on my Formula; 275/40/17. AS long as the weather is fairly warm, they seem to stick pretty well for me, at least in a straight line. My suspension isn't stock, and I'm sure that helps some, but they aren't THAT bad. Wear wise, they haven't lasted all that long. My next set of tires will be the Nitto 555R-II DOT Road Race tires.

I think we discussed this tonight. They don't all do that, but mine sure have (and not really over time either, unless you mean a very short time). Burned up #4 a few nights ago. Time to send it back to get fixed, AGAIN, ugh.

Yes, I know my local F-buddy Larry does powdercoating, but he can't do my shock tower brace (won't fit in his oven). Are there any local places than can do it, FOR A REASONABLE price? I know places I can ship it to, but by the time I pay for shipping both ways, it isn't worth my time. Price is a BIG factor here. I don't want anything special, just powdercoated silver. I can buy a new one in silver for about $90 (could probably get it for that shipped), and sell mine for around $50, so the powdercoating would HAVE to be no more than $30 or I'll just toss a new one on there and sell mine.

That was the LTCC thing I was talking about. It isn't cheap, but makes for a mean ignition setup.

You do know a nice V8 will drop right in there. smile.gif