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Doug1647545489

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Posts posted by Doug1647545489

  1. My team finished 31st. Not bad considering our only goal was just to finish. All new drivers to GA and not much of a budget. They were very excited to finish the race running and everything on my side went very smoothly.

     

    The continental cars are very close to the street cars. Jack Jr's car is being repaired at the local Ford dealership and the engine is just the production coyote 5.0 with some tuning.

  2. Check your pants/shirts and make sure you're not leaning into the car when washing it and having a buckle or snaps/buttons that may be causing scratches. I know my dad did that on a car and we couldn't figure out why his doors had slight marks on them.

     

    Also, are you sure it was your technique and not someone scratching the car out of jealousy or something?

     

    Just looking at all the options.

     

    No it's from washing. The worst areas are roof, hood, trunk lid.

     

    How about those soaps that don't require much drying? Any good?

     

    I'll try the leaf blower thing, but my leaf blower is an attachment on my trimmer so it will less than ideal.

  3. I do plan on getting a truck soon but that's beside the point. These aren't swirl marks that you'd expect to get over time. They are full on scratches you can feel. They are 100 % self induced and I need to figure out why. I've only washed it 5-6 times and it already needs some major work to restore the clear coat so I'm doing something wrong.
  4. So I'm trying to keep the paint on my car as perfect as possible. I know as long as I daily drive it that will be an uphill battle. What I'm have issues with is clear coat scratches. I thought I was doing everything right, but I already have a ton of these things. Deep enough to catch with my nail. I believe I did it when I was either washing or drying. They are straight and not circular like when I wax and wipe. What the hell can I do to limit these scratches. I already do the two bucket wash with the catch at the bottom. Always use a freshly washed mit and anything that hits the ground gets thrown away. Clean absorber to dry. Meguires tech wax soap and gold class wax. When I'm done the horizontal surface aren't even that smooth. Sides are very smooth. Seems like the clear coat is way more prone to scratching than my last car.

     

    Don't get me wrong the car looks great, but at certain angles you can see the little scratches. Kinda bothers me. I plan on getting someone reputable to machine polish it after the winter to start over. I don't want to fuck it up again. I'm thinking about clay barring it in the meantime to see if I can get it smoother.

     

    Oh and here's a pic from the last cars and coffee.

     

    http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs054.ash2/36047_458096097224_515552224_4993816_4002360_n.jpg

  5. I have you all beat with the racing rig, Playseat, Logitech G25, 56" tv Full Klipsch surround sound with 12 in front firing sub. :D

    (but I am waiting to buy the ps3 till GT5 comes out) :(

    I just playing racing sims on my HTPC right now.

     

    I have a similar setup (playseat, G25, 7.2 SS) except in front of a 1080p projector and 105" screen. I win.

  6. The 40k is with every option to get it as close to the M3 as possible. A base GT with brembo package and 3.73s will perform just as well at 29-30k. A gt premium with brembos and gear will be ~33k. Quite a bargain if you ask me.
  7. It works the same on cars. Might get 1.0 hrs for one side for a brake job and 1.3 hrs for both. Never made sense but that is the way it works.

     

    But you get both done in .8 hours and move on.

     

    Works the same for most things. Buy one valve spring it's 20 bucks. By a set of 16 it's 250 bucks. They all cost the same to make.

     

    We may charge $25k for the initial testing. $10k after that. Once the engine is instrumented and mounted, further testing is not as costly.

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