Trouble Maker

Title should read Jalopnik - Too poor articles for years?

Clay, ditch that RV and get wait you really want. https://barnfinds.com/1972-chevrolet-caprice-harmon-shadow-camper/

They looked familiar, but it's been a few years so I wasn't 100% sure. They are definitely some fun trails, I bet they were a blast on the SxS. I was also wondering if that was in Island in the Sky, the topography looks like it, but we didn't do any off road trails there. White Rim trail would be fun to do sometime.

SxS, I'm assuming that was around Moab? The one with the big horseshoe with vehicle looks interesting too.

Awesome! Which trails are those? We did a big 'out west' trip a few years ago, 3 weeks going around to many of the national parks in that area. We spent a few days in Moab too and rented a Jeep for 24 hours, overnight. We did Chicken Corners, then we were going to camp at Wind Caves. But there were a billion no-see-ums there so we came back to a BLM site half way back to town. Then the next day we did Fins & Things. We were in Needles before that and it's one of our favorite places form the trip. I really want to go back and do a week off-roading in The Maze at some point. Definitely a memorable trip and time.

RIP Clay's clutch.

14s if you drive it for him? Do you still have your Accord daily? You should race him with it. :nod:

Probably about the same time as the transmission? I'm liking my theory even more now. :fa:

Do they think they are sitting on some kind of future barn find?

IIRC one of my coworkers with a similar year had to have the coolant/trans system flushed. There is a trans cooler that is integrated into the radiator that likes to fail and mix the fluids together. But since the coolant looks good, probably not that. From some really quick Internets searching it seems like it can make the trans fail, which makes sense if you got engine coolant in your trans fluid. https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/82033-3rd-gen-4runner-buyers-guide.html#post706218 I could imagine this scenario happening. This part fails, kills the trans. Trans and radiator/trans cooler get replaced. Engine coolant is drained and refilled, but not flushed well enough or at all. Some passages in the engine were blocked up somewhat. Maybe not that bad enough to cause quick/catastrophic overheating, but bad enough to cause some cooling problems. IDK what kind of coolant Toyota used at this time, but doesn't some coolant from that era have a tendency to coagulate and form blockages? I like the other simple checks, but I also like my theory of what happened better.

The ability for the door to seal air out seems way more critical to me than the difference in insulating value. Gaps around it or at the joints from poor design, construction or install concern me more. You can get R10000 and if there are air gaps all of the way around it won't matter. Of course higher value plus good sealing would be the best option. I can't say 'worth it' or not, but if it were me and I was spending every night out there I would just put the higher R value in.

That's awesome...and the steering wheel being 'not straight' would drive me bonkers.

I was pinning on it being more likely some 'bad' part from Tesla maybe in combination with how the light was hitting it. I never for a second thought it might be some polish left behind with your attention to detail on detailing. So if it was worse in the pictures, I was trying to figure out if it was very bad in person or not. I almost wonder if a few year used one with some miles on it and a good test drive would be better? It could get over any initial quality issues and they should either be evident or not. I wish they were a few years older now and an option in my head from a depreciation and price standpoint. My better half really wants an EV when we come back and the only real option I can see is the Bolt. So more viable options would be nice. She had a Volt for a few years before this so I have some faith the Bolt will fulfill her wants and needs.

Are the trim rings around the sonar that pronounced in real life? They almost look like they have a white trim ring in some of the pictures. Amazing job, I almost can't believe the difference you are making in some of these recent cars with how bad they were to start.

Curious about what and where it is, many buy-here-pay-here lots around where I grew up. :nod: But also some big dealerships over there. Are you buying a car from Marky Mark?

How in the world could those even be used effectively at night?

I love doing this, wish I was there to come over and help!

http://www.quickmeme.com/img/cb/cb188960a31bc4e49811f9ac633621dc6f3ed4102d45c4f6d0e3bd166f2dfd3d.jpg

The blessing of the built in a/c not working and using the separate system is your not sucking half of the power from the RVs engine. Epic story and trip, your family are troopers for sure.

I used the 3M system before, but it was a ton of work. It was for selling the car so I've not idea if it came back. It worked really well in the short term. If I do it again, I might remove the headlights unless that was just too much work. I taped the shit out of the body but still hit one spot where it went through the tape. Even then I didn't get the edges of the lenses as well as the middles part. I need to do this for my S2000 and will be keeping it for the foreseeable future so I'm also interested in solutions that work and stay that way.

https://erwinsalarda.com/bmw-m3-e46-e90-e92-e93-2001-2013-tpms-reset/#:~:text=2006%20TPMS%20Reset-,TPMS%20RESET,Yellow%20for%20a%20few%20seconds. But if the tire is actually leaking and going low, you just need to fix that.

As Derek said, if the tire is actually low by you checking with a tire pressure sensor, then the system is doing it's job. If WSS (wheel speed sensor) based, does it somehow auto learn if you change the condition (tire, inflation, ballance, etc.)? On some cars you have to reset the system, so it can learn the new situation. I'm not aware of any that can auto learn without user intervention but it seems possible. These systems look at the vibration/frequency spectrum of the WSS signals. Just a general example of what the 'raw' signal over time VS frequency spectrum of a signal might look like. Those peaks on the right are the (frequency) characteristic of whatever thing this is. So if something about that thing (system) changes, then that right side graph will change. If it goes outside of 'normal' or so different than the others then the tire could be inflated incorrectly (high or low). But 'normal' is different for every tire/wheel, every balance, or even if you change the inflation pressure. So the system has to relearn what is normal. Some of them do this by having you reset button for you to hit (sometimes a real button but sometimes soft button in some HMI). If you don't do this, it can definitely cause false positives. We went to some sand driving and aired down, then aired back up as soon as we got off of trail. Then when we left that camp ground the next day and drove on the highway* the system triggered. *Many of these kinds of detection systems also require fairly constant driving conditions to detect. Large varied speed (big acceleration or deceleration), big lateral inputs or rough roads will not allow them to work correctly so the systems ignore and not detect in those situations. This is why the system did not work during our sand driving even though the tire pressure was quite low. TLDR: With the wheel speed based systems if you change something; tires, inflation, wheels, balance, basically anything tire/wheel related, you have to hit a reset button.

I can't say for sure anyone locally doesn't flow test. I just saw everyone saying cleaning about that local places and I assumed they didn't. You would want to call them and check. Maybe someone knows of a place locally that also does flow testing. I don't have any direct experience with the link I posted. I just see them pop up in mentions on social media occasionally in road racing circles. This is just my impression, their site seems really well put together and I like that they tell you exactly what they are going to do. It was more just an example of what I was talking about; do they test just full open, closed, any duty cycle in between? People here seem to like and have direct experience with Cleveland Injector Hospital, with cars making a lot more power than either of us probably ever will. Sure, you probably aren't going up there just to drop injectors off, especially right now. But shipping shouldn't take too long either. It seems like the best option if someone doesn't chime in that someone in Columbus also does flow testing.