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Everything posted by Trouble Maker
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Risen from the dead? Anyone know much about some of the new super low distortion with high power class D amps (Hypex, ICE power, etc)? I'm dreaming about new amps for the Zus when we get back to the US.
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-Sorry about that, I removed it. It was a live stream of the event, did work during the event.
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How in the actual fuck is what he brought out a truck? It looks more like something that Mitsubishi would make 10 years from now, after they've been out of business for 5 years, as a concept for a 10 years into the future desert racer. It's like calling an electric KUV mobile a muscle car. *KUV=Karen Utility Vehicle, you heard it here first
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... looks like they built it out of old computer cases. And why are there magicians on stage? Also, does this dude still think he lives in South Africa and needs an armored vehicle? It is interesting how closely the price VS 0-60 VS range seem to line up between this and the Ford Maky
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It has never been secret to all of us that your dad must be a Karen, but I'm glad you are final realizing it.
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So many guys driving clapped out fox body Mustangs with flowbee mullets are beyond triggered right now. To be fair I think it's dumb to call it a Mustang.
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Maybe I'm not dreaming big enough, you don't even have to be nearly Oprah rich for these. I'm thinking about 'all around' utility; what is the most outrageous vehicle that you could also drive and function with most or all of the time. Sure, if you were Oprah rich you would have a some really nice super cars, rare classic cars, cars with racing providence that you take to vintage races, something along these lines. Really no one is going to DD these though. Almost anyone with that much money is going to view that type of cars as equally a hobby and equally an investment, so they won't often if every drive them. Like in the what did you see today thread, the picture of the guy who maybe has a 918 but his winter beater is some high spec 911. For me. Ferarri FF, or whatever number letter combo they are calling it now. That one has been on my mind for a while as the 'ultimate' DD. 4 seater hatchish with V12 and AWD. I could imagine being able to drive this every-single-day of the year. But I just ran across this beauty. I think I could also drive something like this about 50% of the year, maybe more. https://glickenhausracing.com/scg-boot
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I'm on an overseas assignment in Japan for 1 year, about an our north of Tokyo. We get an actual fall here, it's nice! How's the house build doing?
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Day----------------Description----High/Low--Precip---Wind------Humidity Today NOV 13----Cloudy---------59°49°-----10%----3 mph-----65% Thu NOV 14------Partly Cloudy---66°38°-----20%----11 mph---58% Fri NOV 15--------Sunny----------58°38°-----0%------6 mph----55% Sat NOV 16 ------Mostly Sunny--62°40°-----0%------4 mph----58% Sun NOV 17------Partly Cloudy---62°44°----10%-----4 mph----58%
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If it's a persistent and immediately detectable issue, it will (should) trip 'immediately'... all fault detection has some timer to reduce false detecting but usually on the order of <1sec, for something like this probably on the order of 0.x00 sec, fast enough to be called 'immediate'. Open/short is, if the system is designed correctly, is very easy to detect very quickly. You don't want to wait any longer than you have to for fault detection because during that time the system can miss activate. If an ABS system miss-activates too much for too long it can cause 'bad' or even unsafe vehicle dynamics. I had a bad wheel speed sensor on a car once and it wouldn't detect until moving and applying brakes. On the first brake apply that wheel would apply 0 brakes while the others did whatever I was applying. This caused the car to yaw, even though I was driving in a straight line.
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Was it originally only 1 line from front to back? . Maybe it's only a 3 channel system. Did you get lines for your truck or make them? . If you made them, did you use the same routing or something different? . You really want to make sure you don't have lines that go above the master cylinder, it's very difficult/impossible to bleed the air out of those. It's much more complicated than this, but to simply I'll group fault codes into 2 types of codes you'll run into; what I'll call permanent and intermittent. For example for a wheel speed sensor Intermittent problem, there might be a slight problem with the sensor where it will 'read' half of actual speed; 10mph even when you are going 20mph. You will have to drive for the car to detect this problem since at 0mph it will still read 0mph. These you may rest at IG on, or you can reset them. Then since the problem isn't there, you are OK until you drive again and the problem can be detected. A permeant problem is something like an open/short. These can usually be detected even if you aren't driving (or for engine sensors engine running). For these, even if you rest them, the failure checks will immediately detect it right after and trip the fault (code) again. It seems like this is the type of fault you have if you can try to reset it, but it just 'comes back' right away. Unless the OEM/ABS maker has some way to bypass faults (like some factory/service mode) by using a tool like you have, there is no way in normal operation to get around this without fixing the problem; which could be the sensor, some part of the harness; connector (wheel well, sometimes another junction to main harness, into ABS unit) or even in the ABS unit itself.
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For the same reason he can't reset to code to run a bleed, he probably doesn't have ABS at all. ABS very likely (99%) doesn't work if he has a code for a wheel speed sensor. Some sensors can be bad (yaw/g) and some ABS systems will disable AYC and TCS but use a more basic ABS, more like ABS pre yaw/g sensors being in cars. But there is not a way I know of or can think of for ABS to work without the wheel speed sensors. Usually the problem with air in ABS is that there will be air in parts of the unit that aren't normally used during regular brake system operation. So, you can do a regular bleed and all is well, but then the next time ABS activates those parts are used and that air will come out into the normally used parts of the system. The green and pinkish parts are normally part of the braking circuit, but that red part is only 'open' during some ABS/AYC brake activation. You should be able to get a good bleed on the normally open parts of the brake system even without doing an ABS bleed. So, my feeling is it's a problem with the regular bleed (ABS unit being inline CAN make this more difficult). Or maybe a problem with the parts or install (see below).
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Without question do the convertible, especially this time of the year.
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Saabs are the best No, Durangos are the best Just kidding, Buick Wagons are now the best
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What about those airbag shim tools from a hardware store? Before that you could use any plastic interior tools to get the door open enough to get the airbag in.
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The put the V8 turbo in (at least) the X5 also, if he still wants an SUV. https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=517997410
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5.1 complete home theater speaker setup
Trouble Maker replied to Trouble Maker's topic in Other Stuff
Sold! Thanks Eli. -
Thanks again Tim for all of the support on this. He was able to work around our tight and hectic schedule, and the end product was better than my expectations. This all made the process of selling this car much easier. Thanks!
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EMP Tek EF50T 5.1 speaker set. $300 OBO Great speaker set that will easily fill up all but the largest rooms. EMP Tek is a 'daughter' company RBH, a well know, well renowned speaker maker based out of Canada. They are a great value for the money. I used these at our old apartment but never set them back up at our house since we decided to go with a soundbar setup. If we ever do a full setup again, I will do some nice built in speakers in the walls for ascetics or I would just keep these for using them down the road. https://www.audioholics.com/tower-speaker-reviews/emp-tek-ef50-speaker-system http://emptek.com/ef50t.php https://goo.gl/photos/6oo9GdDhSJMCoXDK7
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Dynastar Omecarve 10s 158cm in length w/Look Pivot 10 Demo bindings $150 OBO Demo bindings means you can set these to your boot length without needing to go into a shop and get the binding remounted. These things are like the best handling car you've ever driven in or ridden, but for the snow. A complete blast on groomed slopes. Pictures Lange WC 120 ski boots in 10.5s $150OBO A good match to the skis above, higher performance boot. I decided to go a different direction with my setup before I ever used these. These have only ever been worn to try them on when purchasing them. They never been fitted, formed or skied on. Maybe more pictures?
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2013 Chevy Volt Premium Navi (highest trim) 67kmi
Trouble Maker replied to Trouble Maker's topic in LBTS GLWS
Sold -
Inb4 some organization of bored NIMBYs gets kit or speciality cars banned.
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Came here to say nothing with their name/engraved. :gabe: Maybe it's just me, but that has always screamed that someone is trying too hard. I got an engraved decanter and glasses for the last one. I almost feel like I have to have them out for when my friend who gave them to me comes over. I'd actually really like them if they didn't have my name plastered on them. I think at some point I'll buy a really nice set and replace this one.
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https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/594564294367833/ https://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/d/columbus-2013-chevrolet-volt/6913321255.html
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2013 Chevy Volt Premium Navi (highest trim) 67kmi
Trouble Maker replied to Trouble Maker's topic in LBTS GLWS
They do drive quite nicely, especially in EV. I would recommend checking them out when you are finally in the market. Something like this is a no-brainer for a DD if you have charging stations at work, if you are OK with something lower performance for a DD. Carri calls me Civic Si & our loaner CRV (new one with 1.5T & CVT) 'fast' compared to it. I think with the CRV she means responsive, they pedal is a little touchy in it and the pedal in the Volt is much more linear (pedal VS power). I think the break even price on gas assuming total electric cost is 12~15c/kwhr is something like $1.50/gallon. The older Leaf's might be worth checking out too, they had battery degradation issues, so keep that in mind as far as range. But if you can charge at work and home it's probably a non-issue. And since they have battery degradation issues, the prices are dirt cheap.