Mallard

I guess I'm with O'Rourke...did i miss something? CR has always had bickering between members and any forum, no matter the topic, will have the same. Post whoring is a problem and HAS BEEN a problem for a long time. In the past extreme post whores have been set at negative post counts as punishment, or set to 0. Why can this not be considered now. If a person replys to every post on the front page with "+1," or some other comment that adds nothing constructive to a post then I feel this is a viable solution. I know we all at one time or another have said "+1," but there are times where you just want to second a thought that someone else has already brought fourth. I think there's a difference between that and blatent post whoring. As far as behavior at meetnig places, I feel that's solved with the private lot. In reguard to the bad mouthing of mods/admins - I'm not really sure whats happened in the last few days, so I can't comment on that. But there were people that had complained about their posts within a topic being deleted. I think those people have every right to be mad, since IMO deleting someones post that is within a topic is uncalled for. Warn the person by PM's or in the post itself if it's really something that shuoldn't have been said. IMO when you delete someone's post (whether justified or not) that person will always post about how the admin/mod has censored them. Some people will always jump on their bandwagon and since the post has been deleted there's no way for the average reader of CR to make their own judgement on the matter. I think a lot of the things that are happening now are no different from what I've seen since joining this board. There are just a lot more members now. You can't tell me that "Mr. Forky" threads weren't off topic, so how's that any different from anything you see today on the board. Granted, I don't read every post on this board, and maybe some of the things you are talking about have been deleted before I could read them. But to me this is just another CR winter.

To me it would depend on what kind of shape the car is in. Is there any rust? Is the body still in good shape? How many miles are on it and what's the mechanical condition of the car? If everything were still good on the car and I was going to keep it for a while I would tighten up the chassis some. Get some strut tower bars, anti-roll bars and a suspension kit (Shocks and Springs). That should make it handle better/feel tighter and IMO makes it more fun to drive then a softly sprung rattle bucket.

uhhhh...yeah graemlins/thumb.gif

You can use the tranny out of a manual Fiero. When guys swap 3800's into fieros they use the stock tranny (unless they go with the stock auto) so it COULD work.

never heard of the before. When you take it apart look for anything that was loose or worn. Other than that I would look around on www.fiero.nl and see if anyone has had a similar problem. That site has the most fiero info out of anywhere on the net.

yea i know optical zoom > digital zoom. no question. I have a 3x optical zoom which is fine for everything I use it for. If you want a camara with more optical zoom you are most likely going to give up "pocketability." Mine is also just a little bigger than a cell phone and fits in a pocket easily so you're not pissed off about lugging it around all the time. My model also has a MPEG video feature with sound. not great quality, but ok and it's nice to have if I want. If you want something with more standard memory GOOD LUCK. If you can find anything with more than 16MB standard then I'd be suprised. If they give you more memory it's probably because the camara sucks.

get a sony...Mine is down to about $350 now. (You've used it and seen pics from it, although those pics were not taken on the highest resolution setting). Plus add about $100 to the price of the camara so you can get a 128MB card.

My fork seals are leaking and I don't think I can do them myself. I took the bike to a dealer and he quoted me $105+ parts each...today he calls me and says it's going to be over $300+parts and reccommends I take my bike somewhere else #1. How hard is it to do myself? #2. Have any of you done it before? #3. How much should it cost if I have someone else do it? This sucks, because I'm not about to ride with fork fluid all over my front rotors and the weather is nice Anyone?

Cool, that sounds like a good deal to me. I'll let you know in a week or so. The squeaking is intermittent so I'm not in as big a rush as I was at first. I'll send ya a PM when the time comes, and I'll buy the beer smile.gif

All OEM parts

OK so heres an update: I took the car in to see if they'd replace any of the parts since they're only 9 months old. They told me I needed the front rotors turned and I needed new rear rotors, which they would not cover. Pads were fine, meaning no bent wear tabs and they're not glazed over. So heres the problem...after a week they're almost as bad as they were before!!!!!!! Both times the brakes were done the car was getting tires done a few days later. I got new tires the day after they re-did the brakes. Someone told me that if the lugnuts are over torqued that your rotors can warp, anyone have any experience with this? Is it possible that the tire place is fucking up my rotors everytime I go in there?

Well, all the parts are factory, and all the work was done by the dealer. (They can do it much faster than I can and I can't afford to be without my daily driver for long) I'll have to check the wear indicators on the front along with the lubricant on the back of the pads that you mentioned. Someone else told me about that and I'm probably going to try that. I agree, W-Body brakes definately suck.

OK, so last summer my brakes were squealing like crazy, I took it in and they said I needed new rotors. So I got new front rotors and pads. Only a few weeks after I got them they started squealing like crazy again. I'm getting fed up with them now. I feel like I'm driving a freaking COTA bus everytime I stop. I don't think I'm overly hard on brakes, I don't ride them and I put a lot of highway miles on the car. The guy at the dealer said that they squeal because they're metallic pads. Yeah...right. All the parts are only 9 months old. Anyone have any ideas? [ 26. April 2003, 03:56 PM: Message edited by: Slow L36 ]

I'm not suprised. I drive from Mansfield to Columbus on 71 every week when I'm working. When there's not a truck in the fast lane I'd be doing 85 and moving with most of traffic. I had to speed up to 90 just to pass people.

actually 1 in-lb = .112985 N-m I have a convert program thats less than 300kb if you want me to e-mail it to you. It has everything you could ever need.

GM made a Twin Turbo Blazer and it was in Motor Trend a while ago. Puts out 400 hp at aruond 8psi.

He should not be going over the speed limiter in a Cavalier anyway. There have been some nice turbo setups, I remember one that had about 300whp. The Quad 4 is very "modable" but the newer ones with the EcoTech have even more potential. He could always sell it and try to get a better car, but I assume he has it because he either didn't have the money for something better or because of insurence.

Sounds like clutch chatter to me. Pretty common problem. You could try to see if the dealer will replace it under warrenty. Also, I think you have a SAC (Self Adjusting Clutch). You could try turning your clutch back to the "new" condition and readjust it. (It might have over adjusted. I've never done it while its in the car, only on a test stand so I don't know if it's entirely possible.

Yes, thats what cryo people say happends, but it has not been proven. I talked with some metallurgists at work about it a few weeks ago and this and the concensess was that changing retained austinite to martinsite was the only PROVEN benefit. Some of cryo treatment is still seen as a black art by metallurgists. There are people who cryo treat everything from musical instruments (they claim better tone) to pantyhose (They say then don't run). But nobody can prove why that happens. One theory for engine blocks: When building a motor a lot of people will say get an older "seasoned" block. That block has gone through a lot of expansions and contractions and its dimensions would stay fairly stable. Cryo treating may accelerate this process on a new block and make it better for machining. That and the theory about lining up the molecules seem plausable to me, but has not been proven.

I thought the Super Stallion was a S/C'd V8 that ran on Ethanol

yeah i cant wait until cars dont depend on gas, and by the way its comeing sooner than we think.</font>Its rumored to be on the next Z06 motor, thats the only reason I brought it up.

Just wait till they get rid of the cam altogether and acutate the valves electronically. Tuning possibilities are endless.....

if you ask me, nothings really wrong with fieros. They're cheap, they're different, and they have a big support group and there's plenty of help with mods out there. Just about any GM motor can be put in there with some effort, also. Although people will tell you that a fiero's suspension is from a chevette (84-87 models) there are plenty of suspension options out there. Check out www.fiero.nl and you'll find a lot of info and see a lot of nice cars if you really want to look into it.

You don't want to do this. There are many things different with the auto and manual cars, including axle lengths. Many people have spoke of doing this and few have actually done it. Fieros are pretty cheap and you're best of finding a 5 speed instead of converting. For more info go to www.fiero.nl You can do a search in the tech section on Auto to manual and come up with a lot of stuff.

Not quite...Thanks for the help. As I said it'll be a long time before anything happens so you won't see my rear end for a while.