hpfiend

Check to make sure the stainless line you added is tight and that it is not leaking past the threads- Is it the right flare?

But the important question is what length pushrods...? Get an adjustable pushrod, make a lifter solid, assemble valvetrain, mark the end of a valve with a sharpie and go through two valve cycles and check the pattern, adjust, repeat. At .450 you shouldn't have piston to valve clearance issues unless you are using domed pistons *I don't think* but that is something else to check with some clay. Buy a long bolt that will thread into the front of the cam to help you hold it and leverage the back so you can clear the bores without nicking them... I am pretty sure I just covered mine in ARP assembly lube and use a drill to prime your oil pump, start it and let it run a while, change the oil, let it run some more, change the oil again, and you should be good to go- I would put a couple hundred miles on it with some easy driving before you redline it but probably not necessary as they say the majority of cam wear happens the first 90 seconds.

+1

thanks guys- I am going to go pick them up, I have some rusty bolts I need to break! you can't deny real reviews from real people. Thanks for the warning on the swivels I will get some name brand version of those... BTW I had a chrome finish non-impact craftsman 3/8" 3" extension shatter on me using a breaker bar trying to bust loose some lugnuts before I got my impact gun and the one impact socket I have. This was a rear wheel on a 4 door explorer and the shrapnel broke the front drivers side mirror glass! Of course it had a lifetime warranty and it was replaced with a new one and a 1/2" extension but I wasn't even wearing safety glasses as I never expected that to happen (and yes I was using a 1/2" breaker with a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer- maybe I should have expected it ;-) ) you would think the reducer would break as a sort of safety valve first as they should probably have never made those things in the first place!- now whenever the breaker bar or impact gun is out the glasses are on...

Hey all- Anyone use these, the reviews are good and the price is hard to beat? IIRC they are 12.00 for an 11 piece set with a metal box to store them in... I am looking at their pittsburgh deepwell 1/2" SAE and metric impact socket sets...

okay- you guys are GOOD! I did the wrt-dd firmware upgrade and my connectivity is much better at distance! Also- my magic jack now works and before it would time out every 3-5 minutes and drop the call... Now to google how to set the ack timing for optimum performance! 30 cm is about 1 foot correct- well it is about 7 feet off the ground and about 10-15 feet through a wall to my son's crib - I may put some aluminum foil on that wall just in case....

Thanks for the help thus far guys! Ok- N router wont work, cannot do cantenna or other homemade rig as my wireless card does not have an external antenna. I looked up dd-wrt and it will work with my router but I am a bit concerned about ramping up the output power beyond what the manufacturer designed for risk of fire as more power probably means more heat, or increased risk of cancer from chronic high electromagnetic radiation (the router is right outside my infant sons room)- am I completely off-base on these concerns? My router is currently a linksys wrt54g version 6.0 Tell me about adding another router? Do I just get another one of the same make and model and somehow sync them? Plug it in to power near the computer and then use the ethernet port on it and plug it into the computer? Is this better than the 90.00 wireless booster? That sounds kind of steep... Maybe I should just run a splitter and mount a coax outlet to where the wife wants the computer to stay... Thank you for your help!

I have a linksys 545g wireless router or something like that... my computer does not have an exposed antenna it is an internal card. I will look into making my own antenna and google dd-wrt... another router would pick up the same signal? Not sure if an N router would work with my old r50 laptop... The router is as central to the house as I can be I ran power and coax to a shelf I built near the top of a coat closet directly in the center of the house as the wife did not like it sitting on a dresser..... Thanks!

Hey all, I know some of you work in IT related fields... does anyone know of a way to boost your wireless signal so that it will work at a greater distance or through more walls? It is about 50/50 where my wife would like to store the laptop and when it locks on it is pretty good but once you move it and bring it back it loses its signal for a long time. It works much better on the kitchen table but she is sick of it being there.... so...? Anyone know of an antenna or something that will sit next to the computer and help? Also- is it a wireless router or cable modem or provider that is the problem if lately it seems like I have to reset it all of the time to get the internet to work? Thanks!

that sounds dangerous to me- it only took one time with ET Streets for me on a wet road to give up that habit and those are DOT legal.

Very nice indeed, congratulations! You owe your man parts to the car gods btw if you don't do something worthy of that shop AND 3 car garage... FWIW Henry Ford built the first model T in his basement just in case you didn't know the expectations ;-)

he runs full race hoosiers on the street? or what sort of slicks? To the fellow that didn't get the sarcasm- to your credit, the fellow's name could have been Paul Owen Smith with initials POS

Bud if your "injector fuse" blew you would not be able to drive or start the car anywhere if such a thing even exists... no injector pulse means no fire in my book... Did you tow it to goodyear? With the 1/4 throttle deal it does sound like a fuel volume delivery issue- post pics of plugs with one looking wet/oily/black for non fire... if you pull the vacuum line off of the fuel pressure regulator what happens? Is the "new" motor the same year? custom ground connection? Any smoke of any color out the tailpipe when it is hitting "rev-limiter" at 5K? Likely idle issue is related to 5K issue.... Does this engine have a distributor or is it distributorless? And when did all of these problems start?

If that is the shifter in your car it looks to me like it takes the demon key and the factory knob that AJ and I were referring to because of that machined slot in the top of the threaded section- try and twist the top half only of the ball counterclockwise- the seam may be so perfect it is hard to see... FWIW I have only seen the white z downtown once or twice IIRC and my wife said she saw it another time- she works down there- I saw it once at easton as well. One other thing you may try- I don't know why they would do this but maybe it is reverse threaded and you can go 1/4 turn because you are actually tightening it until it bottoms out- try turning it clockwise.

I am with some of the others... check for poor ground connection and or/chaffed wire and the associated low voltage/high resistance.

What were the conditions when the injector fuse blew? And how did you diagnose it was an injector fuse or more importantly what caused it? It has a separate fuse for each injector? Faulty/clogged injector sounds likely to me and most of the time you are firing on 3 out of 4.... Pull the plugs as was mentioned before and take pictures of each. Get a stethoscope and listen for clicking at each injector- pull plug wires one at a time and see if there is no change in idle without one. Have you checked for solid ground connections? Cold air intake or intake manifold as modification? Have you checked your vacuum? How many miles? First owner? On a random note: That's me!

which is a plus because it fits within driveshaft loops more easily (quite a few concerns on that with the frpp one) and is lighter, dunno about the torsional load limit though. They are hard to find in good shape...

I put the silverstars in my wife's acura RSX... while they were brighter they burned out in less than 6 months! I went back to the factory style bulbs and they have lasted for years.

Well I can't find my info but IIRC it but the driveshaft off of an awd aerostar minivan will work- I think its the front shaft- I never tried it but was going to on my old coupe before I sold it.

If you dont know which wire is positive in the future (even though a7x suggestion is probably correct), put your black probe of your multimeter on an exposed metal surface and then probe each of the bulb connector prongs with the red for 10-12 volts with key on engine off, then try for 12-14 with engine runnning.

Well not knowing how much the vehicle weighs and what type of transmission/gear ratios you are using... if you make peak power at 5100 rpm there is really no reason to rev beyond 6K rpm (again not knowing gear ratios), with a mild cam, stock heads, intake and headers you are upping the volumetric efficiency to probably 90ish or below and that puts you somewhere between 550 and 600 cfm (600 being 100% VE)- I would go with a holley 4 barrel 600 cfm to give a little room to grow and great throttle response- probably their electric choke street version with pcv/vacuum brakes- maybe a double pumper but not sure what you have as far as options to use on the street. Most people prefer holley carbs that are not carb experts as they are the easiest to tune as everything is available. You can also use holley's calculator which requires more information but is very good. http://www.holley.com/applications/CarburetorSelector/CarbSelection.asp

Is yours the speedway white Z I see downtown occasionally? You have done some exhaust work to it? Some sort of personalized plate IIRC? I don't think the strap wrench is going to solve your problem- especially not one of those rubber ones on such a smooth surface. If your hand isn't slipping and you are getting a 1/4 turn I am still going for a set screw, jam nut, or a setup like the factory with a demon key and a removable cap somewhere... I would get a chain wrench and some rubber sheeting if you really want to muscle it off but you will probably still destroy it and/or strip something out- what are you trying to go to? This is the closest I can find to what looks like yours: http://www.c5stuff.com/shopping/1391.html

What is the max rpm? Estimate hp output of the crate motor with your modifications?

You know you are right- I just couldn't bear to tear apart my perfectly built h/c/i blown 5.0 coupe and I practically gave it away for what I had in it- of course the c5 z06 I replaced it with is a million times better but I still mess the rawness of that car and how I could mess with it and not make it worse than it was engineered.

49 awhp with just one more psi?