controler

The BFG's probably arn't a bad choice, but check out the Continental ContiExtremeContact as well as The Dunlop SP5000's .. here Click on the Survey results.

Isn't this the first sign of crankwalk?

I'd say 16G can get you into the 12s, because they can on a DSM... just worry about traction.

If I were you... I would leave the GSR stock and modify your s13 with a sr20det. But that is just me and you might have no idea what I am talking about.

Well I've been researching my recently purchased FC, and I've found that there is a way to premix 2 stroke oil in with the gas to lubricate the apex seals and rotors, instead of using the oiling system. Well I overlooked the idea at first, because I thought it was a little obsurd. But currently I have a leak in my metering oil pump lines (that pump the oil to the intake manifold and rotor housing) -- I suspect as much at least. I would like an unbiases opinion from the rotary guys in here (rx7club.com can be misleading) as to if this is a good idea. I know it will cost more, but it will be an easy fix, and supposedly not create as much carbon build-up on the rotors. Thanks [ 13. April 2003, 12:19 AM: Message edited by: controler ]

Bridgestone Potenza S03's or Dunlop SP9000's.

It sounds like your running too rich, or extremly lean. Well either way the new injectors are most likely different (whether they are low impedence and your car requires high impedence or vise-versa). I suggest you either install the old ones, or go get some new ones from an auto parts store.

Your probably right. I only said the GT turbos were better to make an overall judgement. After all something more expensive is always better, right? heh.. Real-world data is always important to me when purchasing something, because there is a value to everything and purchasing something that is more expensive might be better but is it good enough to warrant the extra money...?

T04E has several different compressors... please specify. T64 is bigger than the biggest T04E. Compressor maps

GT turbos have ball bearings, so they are better, although they will be more expensive than a regular garrett turbo. Its my personal opinion that you should wait to mod you car. Not for the sake of milege, yet for the sake of reliability. Its easy to mod a car, but its more difficult to mod one and keep it reliable. I would wait and see what performance items Rhys Millin, Ralliart, RRE, Vishnu, etc are going to be releasing before jumping on one. For example, the WRX has several piggy back computers from TurboXS and others, and I am sure the first one that was released isn't the best. In the mean time, I would get an exhaust and a nice electronic boost controller (you can always sell it later). From there you can most likely max out the injectors before running into problems. -- must be nice having a fmic from the factory

hahaha that is what I've heard. But the guys on horsepower TV are competely oblivious.

I think the MT90 is only GL4 based. This might be good for older transmissions, but most newer transmissions require GL5. Regular Redline 75w90 is GL5, and remember to get NS for non-limited slip. I put it in my MkIII supra tranny, and yeah it helped but 2nd gear syncro was almost gone anyway. Ultimately this is just a temporary fix, you will have to get a new transmission or have your current one rebuilt. You could get a used tranny from a japanese importer, but you might have to deal with different gear ratios. That would be your cheapest route, unless you could find one in good shape at a junk yard. I was lucky and bought a car with a blown motor, but the tranny was good and I parted out the rest of the car smile.gif

I hope this isn't on the supra :-/

Yes, I have liked the motor ever since I first heard about it. GM made a new platform with trailblazer, and if I had to buy an SUV, that would be my choice. Now GM needs to put that motor(slightly modified of course) in a smaller, more sporty chassis!

Did I hear my sig mentioned? Well I have an accord, and I can atest to the fact that it isn't modded. Its reliable, and I wish to all hell that $5k would magically appear in my bank account so I could built a s13 with a sr20det. But since I live in the real world, expect me to make an appearance in the top25 after I get a real job, and have almost no loans to pay off smile.gif

Ford wiring can differ from day to day (at least that is what I've heard). Best thing to do is to actually test the wire with their a multimeter or a test light. You can test the 12 volt source, and the accessory light (turn the key on), just find a valid ground.

How did you go about doing that calculation? And the HKS pully raised pressure up to 12psi. smile.gif stupid me for thinking this was going on a mr2.

I agree a supercharger/turbo setup isn't cost effective, but possible none the less. 4A-GZE from japan would bolt right up, and HKS made a pully for the supercharger that enabled more boost (which I am sure you know) That is the route I would take. The 4A-GZE had what 170 or 180 hp in japan, and with the pully, that would take it above 200, and in such a small car, power to weight would be pretty good. Once the motor was running good, I would concentrate on the body and suspension aspect. But that is just what I would do, because I live on a budget

Hrm, ferrari's system doesn't seem that technologically advanced. BMW's system (Vanos I think is what its called) is suppose to revolutionize varable cam timing and control. I don't know when it was due out but it might already be in the M3 motor.

I have an alpine cd player connected via one set of rca's to an audio control eqx 13 band eq, that goes into a xtant 4 channel amp where I have a set of components, and a single sub. I do have two 6x9's in the back powered off the headunit, but they are only there after numerous complaints about too much bass (from people in the back seat) which took me over 2 years to actually get around to. So I guess I would just be bypassing them, who cares about people in my back seat anyway Another possiblity a friend of mine thought of way to hook up another cigarette lighter hardwired into the body and see if that gets rid of the noise. <- I just might try it.

Yes, at times I want to, guess I should pay for liablity.

I am using high quality rca's, and that isn't the issue because the is no engine noise when the stereo is hooked up, the engine noise only occurs when I plug the rf adapter and mp3 player in. I hooked up a 10 gauge wire from the cigarette lighter to a ground (as stated), and it still did not supress the sound.

Hrm... I use to be into car audio back before I had a car, and up to the 3rd system I currently have installed. But I lost interest, and have been out of the game for a few years. Well I bought a portable 10gb mp3 player, and a rf adapter to hook it up to my stero with. Well there is an engine noise with the rf adapter, I suspect it is in the cigarette lighter, where the grounding isn't that good. I just hooked up another ground (found with a test light) and the engine noise was still present. What is the easiest way to get rid of the engine noise, and perhaps the cheapest? I thougth about hooking the mp3 player up directly to my rca plugs through an adapter, but I feel that isn't the best way to go about things. Thanks for you imput.

I don't know why it would become apparent when you changed the plugs, but might I suggest an exhaust leak? I had a nasty exhaust leak (my own fault) in the egr system. It would create this ticking noise ONLY under load...took me forever to diagnose it.

I just want to add my opinion... they arn't exactly tuner cars so I would suggest looking elsewhere if you desire a tuner car. But for $500, a decent beater it could make.