controler

I am by no means an mechanic, but I want to off a suggestion: Headgasket, as mentioned before. I would suggest getting a block tester (sniffer) to see if there is any exhaust in the overflowed coolant. At the same time, I would check the torque specs of the headbolts. I assume your running more boost than stock, and they could be "moving" under increased loads causing. I also saw a problem in the big fmic, but that might not be where the real problem is. I suggest putting the boost back to stock and making a few hard runs to see if it overheats. Let us know...

that sucks. Have you ever done front brakes on an accord before? well in short you have to press the rotors out of the hubs, it really sucks. Not something I want to do any time soon. I will check them with a mic before I rip them apart though.

The topic says it all, but I want to know why, and how to fix it. Mainly when I brake in the 35mph to 25mph range my steering wheel and car vibrates. The front brakes/rotors are a little over a year old, and the back brakes are original, but I just checked them today, and they still have plenty of life of them. Please help, thanks.

Yeah, both the items your talking about decrease spool time for faster boost. Depending on the turbo, ball bearing shafts can decrease full boost time by 500 rpms. There are several turbos made by toyota that had cermic COMPRESSOR wheels. I am not sure about the turbine side. They are lighter than steel blades. MkIV supras in japan had these (ct12a) and did spool faster, but the a/r of the turbine didn't allow them to produce as much boost, but that was just the design of that paticular turbo.

Go Here Its been done, and looks like a fun project. Definate sleeper. If your Se-r is in good condition, the only thing you'll really need is the Bluebird longblock with turbo and manifolds. Everything will have to be custom, but you can reuse the wiring harness (which means no splicing). I just wish I could find a Se-r for around a grand, then I'd do it. SR20's can run 14 psi on the stock t25, which lays down somewhere in the neighborhood of 240-250 wheel hp.

Weight reduction and hacking the airbox are the only mods that will help. Your not going to want to dremel the throtle body because the plate inside the TB will not match up, and create a lean condition because air will be flowing through even when the plate is all the way closed. Egr block off will not really net any real power either, since it really only opens at highway speeds when your crusing for a long time. Hacking the airbox will only net you fractions of a horsepower at different rpm ranges, but if you are trying to get maximum horsepower for the dollar, "why not". And weight reduction will net you faster times, but your saturn is already pretty light, and do you really want to get rid of those 'creature comforts'?

That sounds like a resonable explaination, althought the belt was replace with my motor swap, and has probably 3,000 miles on it. Also I just checked it, and its tighter than my alternator/clutch fan belt.

Its only when I am under boost, and does not happen on every turn I take. It would make the think its the turbo for this reason, under boost.

Yeah is almost only when taking a turn but, I might have gotten the noise once or twice when I was accelerating and the weight was being transfered, after a turn. But it would make the think I need a rebuild because the turbo isn't seated right, and probably is floating, possibly hitting the housing. But I don't know.

The turbo on my Supra came from the jap-spec motor I dropped in, and it didn't have much shaft play so I didn't rebuild it. Well sometimes it makes a terrible screeching noise when I boost through corners. What could explain this? I have the turbo off the car, and visual inspection does not reveal any flaws in the turbo itself. There are no cracks in the 'hot' side. Also it doesn't look like the compressor blades are hitting the housing. Any help is appreciated...

That second one (bosch) is run in many turbo cars comming from europe. For example porsche, saab, vw. I run one in my supra because it is a very cheap replacement. I picked up mine from thepartsbin.com for under $30 shipped. Makes a nice pssssh sound, but not as loud as some aftermarket units. I've also seen them in aftermarket supercharger kits. And 9-12 psi shouldn't be a problem I don't have experience with this, but I wouldn't buy an older bov, expecially from japan, I've heard the units don't last too long, although they can be rebuilt (some at least).

I've read the motor important thing to remember when breaking-in a motor is to keep the rpms constantly fluctuating. So if you go on the highway, go to 2500 rpm speed up to 3000 rpms, and back down to 2500. That is just an example. Street driving is the same way. I also suggest an oil and filter change after 500 miles, but that is up to you. But definately keep the boost low, expecially on a non-factory turbo car. What kinda of motor did you build, and for what car, btw?

There are tons of different tires you can get. But it all depends on what you want. If you want the ultimate in dry traction, bridgestone potenza so-3 pole positions. But if you want something that will last you, you can drive in the snow, that work great with accords, and are cheap, I would suggest Dunlop Sport A2's. I have an older version of these on my accord and they are still pretty damn sticky, and they survive snow, but they definately arn't a snow tire. I'll get a good 2.5-3 years out of them.

I have that exact same problem on my accord--'95. I need to get it taken care of, but there is definately a laziness factor. Tell me what you get yours fixed for, and I might goto the same place. Unless of course, someone wants to how us how to do body work.

I have an 87 Toyota Supra turbo, with 225/50/16's all the way around. Dunlop SP8000's. I want to know what kind of tire pressure I should run. I am at 32 psi all the way around, but it seems unbalanced, and easy to get loose. Whats everyone's opinion as to best handling for city driving? [ 18 May 2002, 01:02 AM: Message edited by: controler ]

If your talking Horsepower per dollar, (turborex) have you thought about a B20 + turbo? I know the motors can be had for at or around $1,000, and they have LOADS of torque. Much more than any other b-series motor. Or even B20 with a vtec head. I've seen them dyno 200+hp (fully build though) but I bet you could get away with stock pistons, even stock type r pistons, for under $3,000, and still dyno at 190+hp.

It is possible to get one turbo running. Either installing the exhaust manifold and stock ct26 turbo on the NA (7mge), or getting a new wiring harness on the turbo (7mgte), which will run you almost $400 new from toyota, maybe $100 used. The exhaust manifold on the NA car will created some tuning problems, and some custom piping, but is it possible, and I've seen it done. I've done a 7mgte swap, but no a NA->T conversion.