20G TSi

graemlins/gives.gif Update... I got the boost controller dialed in. It spikes to about 17-18psi and drops back to 15. then creaps back to about 17 @ about 6500rpm. Its sweet, it'll spin through first and into second, hook, then spin again on the high end. cool shit. I think i'm going to post some pictures of the port job I did on the manifold 02 housing and exh housing.

FINALLY got it done. I have a lot of pictures, but after i thought about it, its probably not worth posting since there's already a thousand 2G - 16G installs on the 'net. the only thing different was fab'in up a lower IC pipe for the MKIV IC. Everything went fairly smooth... I just got back from a quick burn-in and DAMN does it feel doggy down low. I've heard the automatics have small cams, which affect spool up... guess its time for some 1G M/T cams. Then again, I didnt put tooo much load on it either. So far as a 'kit' goes, I just needed the j-pipe and a '94 GSX oil line. About 90 bucks. Not soo bad.

Hey all, I'm going to put this 16G in my 1995 TSi today. I'm not sure if anyone here graemlins/gives.gif but I'll try and take some pictures and comment on the overall install. I've got the typical broken exh mani studs, so this should be fun ;\ I guess i'll have frickin aol host the pics unless someone here is nice enough? ?

maybe the brakes splash shield scratching on the rotor or drum?

add 3am white castles to the deal, and you've got real problems.. .hehhehe

It shits hard?

If you're mechanically inclined at all, you should get a manual and give it a shot. Its really a straight forward job, I've got swaps down to less than 2 hours, and I've just done 3 or 4 of them. I'd do it for about 70 bucks if I lived up that way... Expect to pay atleast $300 for parts (if you replace the pullies and tensioner like you're supposed to at 120k), even with the clubDSM discount. Oh, and DONT BUY the water pump from the dealer (but do buy the belts and accessories there), unless you just like spending an extra $40. Your water pump is probably leaking out of the coolant tube. There's a o-ring on the end of the tube that is supposed to seal the water pump to tube connection. Its probably corroded and just broke a hole in the oring.

Yeah, that helps. Still sounds like a shift kit. If that is the only problem you're having, I wouldnt sweat it. Now if you notice somem slippage, or not upshift/downshifting like it is supposed to, then I'd be worried. You can buy a shift kit for almost any automatic transmission... Basically all it does is add greater hydraulic pressure within the valve body. This makes the transmission shift harder, instead of slipping into the gears. this is supposed to add to the life of the transmission since its not eating away at the lining as much for each shift. GL

could someone have installed a shift kit previously? Thats what it sounds like to me. Does 2-3 and 3-4 shift somewhat hard as well?

tell your friend to STOP DRIVING THE CAR! Not any distance.... That water/antifreeze makes its way into the oil and it'll spin a bearing out and skrew up the crankshaft journals. I'd bet it already is in the oil... Have him take a look at the oil... if it looks like a vanilla milk shake and he's driven it, most likely he's already done damage. No matter if its under warrantee or not, they wont replace the shortblock...

dump the clutch and see if it works or not you should easily be able to tell.... the car will feel like a dog since (if its working) the computer is pulling back timing (and fuel?). If it does work, try the button to see if it turns it off (or conversely).

hehe... yup, what he said.

Oh, dont forget a new pin for the castle/crush nut!

Its generally very easy. The hardest part is getting the crush nut off. Once you've done that, its all gravy from there. pack the new bearing with grease and torque the crush nut to spec. Rotate the wheel clockwise 3 times and retorque. that should do it, unless there's something weird about the minivan.

nice uneducated guess. *cough*AFR, EDELBROK, TFS, WORLD, FMS, HOLLEY*cough* you can run 2.02 valve heads on stock 5.0 blocks, it is a common thing, SOMETIMES you have to flycut the pistons, but most of the time you don't have to (the 2.02 valves are accutlay going to hinder the flow of those heads however...you cant unshroud the valves enough in a d0oe head to utilize a 2.02 intake vavle) It is ALWAYS a good idea to check the piston to valve clearence (clay) however, I do not think that this is his problem...</font> Did he say what castings was used? I've seen 351w heads (C90E castings) flow greater than 250cfm at 0.600 with 2.02 valves. Regardless, I doubt it is piston/valve interference.... most likely timing or plug wire in incorrect place.

he said a Crane Cam roller, so I assumed he meant it was for a 5.0HO (since they're factory roller). Thats a good point though, make sure the cam was for a 302HO/351w (1-3-7...) and not for a regular 302 firing order (1-5-4....). Most likely he has the ignition timing off, possibly 180deg out of phase.

check and recheck the valve lash. You may have a valve stuck open due to incorrect valve lash (they're not idiot proof like the bolt down rockers in the 5.0's). What rocker arms did you use? Those windsor heads have pressed in studs and are a bitch to adjust properly (with aftermarket rockers) so be careful. Also, what size cam did you use, and do you still have stock (un-notched) pistons? Every 2.02" Int. valve application I've ever encountered needed the pistons notched for proper clearance. Its possible that a combination of incorrect (or correct for that matter) valve lash and not enough piston/valve clearance has bent a int. valve. I'd try everything that has been mentioned in this thread, and if you still have the problem do a compression check.

I could provide a good working/shifting tremec HP 5speed if a trade is possible. Its still in the car and could be driven if necessasary.

I have a c4 sitting in my garage... how much to build the one I have? I've heard about 400's and how they eat up hp, but I figured it was worth it so long as it held up. At this point cost is the most important factor. So, how much?

high 9's are my goal, btw, (when I can get the rear setup and a tranny that'll hold up, I can spray the fogger i've had sittin around . I wonder what he has done to the 400 to make it reliable for mid 9sec capable hp? What ever I do, it needs to be streetable. I drive to RODRUN in gatlinburg, TN and Clay City 1/4 mile every now and again (and all local tracks)... you cant beat the look on the faces of the trailer queens when you come in with the 8.5" slicks in the back seat [ 24 April 2002, 09:42 PM: Message edited by: blupastu TSi ]

That car is sweet... I KNOW i've seen him down at edgewater yanking the tires to damn near the 60' mark thanks for the input, i've been told they're pretty stout, even stock. I just wanted to get some opinions before I picked one up. I just bought a house so funds are low right now... the th-400 is sounding like the way to go. I would talk to "more tools than..." about his C4 for sale, but I dont think its built enough for my application. I've been told I need billet steel input shafts and alot of other stuff (planetary gears?) to make a c4 work reliabily behind that much torque.

I know I'm going to catch some shit for asking, but this seems like it could be the cheap route... I've seen a few companies that advertise a TH-400 -> SB Ford bellhousing. I've found a rebuilt TH-400 for $225... about $700 cheaper than building the C4. I've been told that the 400 will live behind the 408w (608hp/580ft.lb) with minimal mods... I have a hard time believing this though. Does anyone know of someone who's done this swap or can call bullshit on the durability of the TH-400? TIA

from what I understand the 14b is capable of flowing enough air to support 280hp before its out if its efficiency range. 280hp would make for a nice Accord...

look at http://www.thepartstrader.com in the eclipse/talon/laser section. There is always plenty of mitsu 14b's on there for cheap. you could also look in the junkyards for a 90-94 eclipse/laser/talon MANUAL transmission turbo... Dont buy the crap from egay, its usually overpriced junk that needs rebuilt. GL

sounds like your base idle set screw has come loose and backed out a bit. There is a big hole in the throttle body with a screw inside of it that controls idle speed. I would adjust this screw (with the car running) and see if that helps. Sometimes the screw can back itself all the way out of the hole (thanks to boost) and be missing, so if you see the hole, but there's no screw, you need a BISS (base idle set screw). Another thing (hope its not, they're expensive) it could be the IACV (idle air control valve) stuck open.