20G TSi

In a vehicle that heavy, I would do things in this order: 1. blower and supporting mods 2. heads, small port, such as AFR185's 3. extrude-hone stock intake

I agree with blackbird. With a large CID engine, fuel injection becomes fuel infection.

confirmed.... a close friend converts the turbos from sleve to bb design for the lingenfelter vettes. they are not rebuildable, and they do NOT carry a mfg. warrantee, although you may find a aftermarket supplier willing to offer a warrantee.

the factory stock grand national GNX turbo used a ceramics.

lol... i think they were trying to keep that fact quiet until he came back with some more assinine responses

I agree with RL, If the car doesnt have a mass air flow sensor to bugger with, the problems gotta be with the MAP sensor (they kinda function the same).

stock injectors shouldnt have any ill effect at part throttle though, right? I'd rule out fuel injector size being the problem for the mean time (until you can give 100% throttle past 3000rpm).

I dunno much about hondas, but kinda sounds like a timing issue. Is there a lead that needs to be plugged in to allow timing advance? You know, like a plug or some other means of keeping the timing at "base timing" for adjustment? On a dsm there's a plug that you take out to check/set base timing. If there's an equivilent of this, I'd make sure its together, and that you're getting timing advance. Did you say you had the shop (who did the install) tune the VAFC? if so, did it run OK when you first got it back from them? ALSO, check for a boost leak.... this would create the PIG RICH condition babyjesus suspects. If its got a mass airflow sensor, make sure its plugged in and there's no leaks on the intake side of the turbo. [ 28 September 2002, 08:48 PM: Message edited by: Jasons TSi (formally blupastu) ]

yup, the saab uses the T3 also. Like I said, there's alot of applications that use the T3. the turbo 'bird is probably the easiest to find. Get a manual, its got a better flowing wheel than the automatic w/ a T3.

you can get those t3's all day long at about half that price at your local junk yard. They used'em in lots of applications over the years. Look at some turbo thunderbirds, they use that same turbo (different trims for auto v's manual tranny though).

I was talking about NHRA rules (it MIGHT apply to SCCA also, but not sure). No fuel components can be mounted on the firewall. Anyways, that doesnt apply to you, but its in place for safteys sake. I guess incase it leaks into the driving compartment/interior (through a grommet or something)and catches fire. Stoooopid safety regulations I always mounted mine on the shock tower or inner fender. [ 20 September 2002, 08:09 AM: Message edited by: Blupastu TSi ]

OUCH! is that mounted on the firewall? Thats a no-no smile.gif

cel = check engine light. Some ecu's are affected when an error code is shown (such as low o2 voltage after removing a converter). Some arent.

Unequal length headers for a fox, $75 : http://www.columbusracing.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=000533

oops, I forgot we were talking about a nitrous car, not a blower car. still good info.

I just found this: http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_extrainj.html Dont know if its something you'd consider or not, but I think its a great idea, and you cant beat the price.

oh yeah, wouldnt bypassing the sensors, or tricking them into sending a false msg (colder air intake) increase the fuel AND the timing? wouldnt that cause problems when on the squeeze? Its been a while since I've messed with the eec, so i'm prolly wrong. [ 26 August 2002, 09:33 PM: Message edited by: Blupastu TSi ]

cool ideal. could you solder in a potientiometer (trim pot) and be able to adjust the amount of fuel enrichment?

should be the same. it was the same on my 2G, except the location of the fuel pump (its under the rear seat on a 2G instead of in the hatch). Its pretty basic, you'll see. I would recommend soldering every connection, but I guess its not 100% necessary.

yeah, but its fwd, so no rear swap

hey, thanks for your reply, but its not broke because I put insane amounts of hp through it (note my lack of decent mph in my sig...), but because I didnt beef it up before beating the shit out of it. I just pulled the oil pan, and damn. the magnets were all furry and there were large peices of metal floating around. One peice was probably an inch long x 1/8" wide. I'ma put a new filter on and see if that doesnt help. I think I've got a good line on the tranny and swap parts now, so if not, I'll have a 5speed TSi again.

well.... all that talk of swapping in a 5 speed must've pist off my auto. Its done (I think). The tranny makes a gear-drive noise and slips. After a minute or two of driving it does not operate AT ALL in any forward or reverse gears. So, I guess its time to try to find a donor car for a 5 speed swap. I'm confident I can do the swap (about the only thing I lack is patience ). Any suggestions on some place (0r somebody) who might be parting out a 2G FWD 5speed car? I know all about thepartstrader.com and dsmtrader.com, so any other suggestions are appreciated!!! SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO GET THE POS AUTO WORKING AGAIN appreciated also. Jason [ 25 August 2002, 12:02 PM: Message edited by: Blupastu TSi ]

great info, thanks! The swap is a peice of cake though, there are dowl pins in the cams, so you cant put the cam gears on wrong. If you've ever done a timing belt swap (yourself), a cam swap should be easy.

before I had even cracked the bolts in the T25, I put on the 3" turbo back exhaust and forgot to put in the groundstrap/downpipe-to-block bolt and the T25 came seperated from the manifold. I put the 16G on, this time bolting the downpipe with no seperation/loosening. Maybe my t25 was already loose, but I've heard other complaints/comments about that downpipe bolt, and turbo's coming loose.

I dont think its bolted to the block to curb vibration so much as to help support the weight of the exhaust itself so there is nothing (besides the turbo itself) being suspended by the mani/turbo bolts.