20G TSi

lol... dayum. Yeah, that should do it

personally I wouldnt run that close to the capabilities of the fuel system (pump/lines, etc)in a forced induction 600hp application. Thats just me tho...

Personally, I wouldnt use an intank, unless it came with a new pickup/return (like the ford motorsport 190lph does). The stock intank pickup is only 3/8". Just attaching a high flow pump to the stock pickup could cause problems with a forced induction/600+ hp combo. I would (I did) use a cartech intank pickup with -8an pickup and -6an return and a exterior pump (paxton/holley, etc.). Are you upgrading the fuel lines as well? You can get a 25' coil of aluminum -8 hardline for about $20. If you use stainless steel fittings instead of the blue/red colored aluminum fittings, you'll save a shitload.

Is there a way to adjust the base timing on your car? That is one way to increase power a bit.

Blocking off the EGR can help in certain situations. With a turbo or supercharged application, blocking off the EGR lets you remove the water lines that can heat up the intake charge greatly. I've seen less knock by blocking off the EGR and water lines, so there IS a benefiet.

I am contemplating the 5speed swap also. I've heard its pretty straight forward, and is relatively easy, with the exception of removing the steering column to install the pedals. When my auto finally goes, I'll be swapping it out. I just like to shift too much. If you decide to keep the auto, check out: https://www.protorque.com/protorque_new/order/oo_i.htm They've got a converter for $395. I'd also get a shift kit and end clutches. Also, if you havent yet seen, check out: http://www.ecanfix.com/~mdhamilton/autotomanual.html for illustrated swap instructions.

yeap, sounds like what he said. GL getting the stank out of the heater vents... they always stink like ass after busting a heater core.

The BOV does not have to be routed back into the intake of the turbo. It does help with spool (example: build boost, lift. The air from the BOV still has the compressor wheel moving a bit, so less spool time). Its not necessary, even with a MAF IF again, IF it seals properly with vacuum. The o2 will see a rich condition as soon as you lift and correct itself. NOW if you are using a stand alone speed density EEC that uses Manifold Absolute Pressure and throttle position to regluate air/fuel then it doesnt matter if you vent it back to the MAF or into the atmosphere. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

Sounds like a power steering belt. Under boost the motor is accelerating faster than normal (obviously), AND in a turn there is a greater load on the power steering pump. The quicker the steering wheel is turned, the greater load on the pump.... that could explain why it doesnt do it all the time. Dont just check the belt for tension, also check it for glazing (hardening). [ 07 July 2002, 12:27 PM: Message edited by: Blupastu TSi ]

I'll play capt'n obvious. Check your power steering belt. [ 07 July 2002, 11:33 AM: Message edited by: Blupastu TSi ]

That porsche IC is almost exactly the same as the one shown, but I think its more like 22x7x4 with the inlets coming in similar to those, but at an angle.

Yeah, I can barely make over 400rwhp with one. tongue.gif Seriously, though it's a pretty poor design with those plastic end tanks and sidemount shape (kinda like a big cube). NPR and Starion are both good suggestions and could be augmented Starion with a water or water/alcohol injection to further cool the intake charge and suppress knock. Check out turbobuicks.com for info on that. The Buick guys tend to lead the pack on that kind of thing.</font> Actually, the MKIV smic has less pressure drop than a starion with about the same internal volume. The end tanks are a bitch, I've had them blow off a few times.. but you can easily go in and use some sealant and squeeze the shit out of the "finger clamps". Thats what I did, it doesnt leak anything at 25psi now. And because they're plastic and removeable, you can configure the inlet/outlet how ever you need. Plus, you can get one for friggin 80 bucks... Thats hard to beat for the flexability and functionallity of the mkiv smic.

A friend of mine has a porsche intercooler in about those dimensions. Its a straight through design with end tank inlets on either side and rows flowing horizontally. He only wants like $150 or so for it. Lemme know if you're interested. I'll go over and take some dig pics of it.

I fucking hate machine code, please stop talking about it.</font>lol... fun stuff. I became well versed in machine code when DTV decided it wanted to use remedial security on their access cards years ago...

Do you have the plug wires routed the same way they were before you checked the plugs?

you want a stock MKIV intercooler for a 500+ RWHP car?

Does the cars performance seem to be affected?

eehhh, i doubt it Notice I haven't brought up his name or where he operates out of? Thats because he uses equipment developed and provided by ford, and I dont think they car efor him using it how he does, he's adimate about anonimity smile.gif I do know him, not exatly personaly, I've met him a few times, exchange e-mail every once in a while, etc. And the whole reason I'm doing the turbo on the T-bird is origionality. I have the money, I could just throw a Novi 2000 at it....like everyone else. </font> Welp, I guarantee I have the same peice of hardware for programming the eeprom. I'd bet 500 bones, and I'm not a betting man. All it is, is a serial eeprom burner.. nothing sophisticated...... your average joe could build one for about 30 bucks, and it'd function the very same as what he (and I) am using. Use freeware jtag interface program and you're set. The hard part isnt programming the chip, the hard part is knowing the address locations that alter fuel and timing in the *.hex file, AND knowing the OP codes to make things work. Even Superchips uses a "pocket programmer". [ 28 June 2002, 06:32 PM: Message edited by: Blupastu TSi ]

duplicate [ 28 June 2002, 06:30 PM: Message edited by: Blupastu TSi ]

dupe [ 28 June 2002, 06:29 PM: Message edited by: Blupastu TSi ]

i know dude,thats why I'm here I am very green when it comes to turbocharging. Mark PM'd me a slew of sites that I need to read up on, and am in the process of doing so. The motor being build with have a setup directly mimiking the TDC stage 2xx mustang kit. The piping is chassis specific, so it wount work on the bird. However, the only difference realy is a bend around the strut towers and the steering shaft. In copying the kit, I am just standing on the shoulders of the inovtors", they've done the work. As for the EEC tuning, the EEC-V is a fully programable ECU.And taping in witht eh correct hardware and software takes no time at all. My car has already been programed for N/A by the same guy. i watched him do it...in bianary and hex. It took him 15 minsincluding strap down time. But he designed the damn thing, kind of an unfair advantage. not trying ot be cocky, just throwing up what I know.</font> Its not binary, its hex. tongue.gif Each byte pair you see, 02 38 for example, is representative of binary code. 02 38h in binary is 10 bits, 1000111000 do you know this guy personally? I'd love to get my hands on that *.hex or *.bin file and disassmebly. I've got probably the same peice of hardware for flashing as that guy does (its called "The Pocket Programmer"). Anyways, whatever route you go, good luck. I'd love to see the finished product.... if for nothing else, the originiallity.

Revl: Yeah, I was done trying to help. Blackbird: that flash/pc i-face with 30-36lb injectors would be nice for the first setup you talked about, with a realistic goal of 400hp. If i'm wrong, thats fine too, lets agree to disagree...

its all in the programming man. the computer controls X aspects of engine operation. The newer cars have OBD2 and that kind of shit, all restraints. But they are merely programs and can be changed. I'll bring my dyno sheet out to the meet tonight, you can see the change in air fuel ratio. Also,with a laptop, the software, and a EEC Tuner,you can sit in your car, wired into the EEC V, and tell it what you want. This means you can adjust it for different boost levels, etc. You can sit in you car and play with/monitor things, just like the buzz word "stand alone" unit featured in That Damn Movie. Adn the flash is just for the current 400hp setup. I'm still open to innovation for the High output version to come, Boost controlers, etc.[/QB]</font> OOOOOHHHH!!! Gotcha man. My bad. I was thinking you were going to have a the eeprom flashed with new parameters, and thats it. I didnt know you were doing the flash so you could interface the EEC with a laptop. Thats the best solution I could think of, since you'll always have the factory pre-sets if the battery dies, or whatever... the car will still run. I would still want to datalog though. I'm looking at some software for the eeprom'd ECU's in the DSM's that does the exact same thing. Cool stuff.

Methinks we have a disbeleiver I'll put it this way, The EEC-V itself is the work of the man that is going to tune my car. Remeber, i said he worked for Ford? Trust me,he knows his shit. And I will most certainly not be running a piggy back chip, it will be a direct reflash, essentialy a custom computer. I'm catching a hint of "ignorant newbie needs schooling"....dont care for it. I assure you I know my shit. edit: 89 gt?...you're not holding me to the same rules as your EEC-IV, are you?</font> You are right, I am basing what I've said on the experiences I've had with EEC-IV. From everything I've read, the EEC-V is MORE of a pain in the ass, has more polution restraints and less performance capability. I'd guess your EEC tuner can make that all go away though. I still dont understand why you wouldnt go with a speedbrain (or similar) piggy-back. You can adjust on the fly, change parameters (like fuel and timing curves) when you up the boost (or lower it), AND datalog. I dont care how much the guy knows about the EEC, there's no way it can be made dynamic, as the input variables are just that, variables. Its easy to burn an EEPROM for ONE boost level, but since you're going with a turbo and not a supercharger, its easy to crank up the boost (and conversely, turn it back down). With the eeprom flash, you'll have one fuel and timing map, that wont be correct for each type of fuel and boost level. Especially at the boost/HP levels you're talking about, you'll need to have the tune right on if you expect it to stay together. I'd still like to know how the EEC controls fuel pressure though

o btw, the EEC tune will NOT set the fuel pressure as you've previously stated. Also, the stock (or modified even) EEC wont come close to working correctly with 72lb injectors. [ 26 June 2002, 04:41 PM: Message edited by: Blupastu TSi ]