20G TSi

Not sure about your specific application, however, with DSM's, if you dont have a bolt holding the downpipe to the block, having the turbo come loose is a common problem. I guess the unsupported weight and fluxuations in temp. (and of course vibration) cause the studs/nuts and bolt to come loose (dsm's use three studs and one bolt).

I would bet you $100 it WAS a thermostat. But running at max temp may have burned up the seal in the waterpump. I suggest pulling the thermostat, putting it back together and seeing if it runs cool. If it does, go get a new 185deg thermostat. it may have gotten soo hot that the steam was pushing through the waterpump shaft seal, but that doesnt mean you need a new WP. I'd be suprised if you didnt warp a head running that hot.... even iron heads. GL Jason

Goood deal. Time to do some tuning. A friend of mine is going to GIVE me his 1G turbo M/T cams, do you think they would be worth the trouble of installing? Its about time for a t/b swap anyways...

woohoo! I got my SAFC ($117.00!!) and a new o2 sensor. My question now is this: I dont have an EGT gage YET, but o2 voltage is stupid rich, like 1.04-1.1+ v at WOT. i would think that by turning down the boost, say to 15psi (for saftey reasons) and adjusting down to .96v would still be safe without having the EGT immediately??? Wouldnt this produce more HP safely? Or should I just leave the AFC alone until I get a EGT gage?

I know its not a fmic, but the mkiv smic wasnt too bad. I used the supra turbo->IC->throttlebody piping, and fab'ed up piping for my talon with very little trouble. I DO suggest using mkiv piping if you know someone whose upgraded, its 2.5-3" in some places. With some radiator hose (has to be fiberglas braided radiator hose or silicone ($$$)) it was cake.

How much? Will you include the IC piping?

hehhh... on multipul occasions. It probably fuct up the first time when it made its best run with the T25, 96mph. Since then I was never able to repeat the 96mph, and after the 16G and the same ratio of gas, it still only turns 96mph. I got one tonight (a new o2) but the incompetent bastards at autozone gave me the wrong one.

I have never changed the O2, and HAVE run 90% 114 (leaded)/10% 93 octane thru it, so maybe the O2 IS screwed up. BUT, I finally got some O2 readings that make sense. Under full throttle and 16psi, I get 1.02 - 1.03 volts!! Just to make sure, that IS a LEAN condition isnt it? Very lean? I think i'm supposed to be at .96v MAX?

Even if the engine has been sitting for say a day or so? Also, when he starts it, within 30 seconds to a minute it comes down to idle and dies. Hmm.. Nick said something about fuel.. hm.</font> My first guess would be the idle air bypass valve. On startup, the computer uses a predefined fuel/timing map (and other parameters, like IABV) stored in ROM, then after warmup, it starts taking measurements from each sensor.

disconnected the converter? do you mean catylitic converter?

so, in anticipation of an AFC, I hooked up a 02 sensor voltimeter and a BCS LED. The LED does nothing at peak boost (right now, 18psi) but the voltimeter acts stupid. I know its supposed to cycle, but its going way down into milivolts (200 or so), and doesnt register at WOT? Do you think my voltimeter is junk or the O2 sensor is bad?

personally, I'd ceramic coat AND wrap them.

I am buying all the equipment to do powder coating/ceramic coating. should have the materials and the spray guy unit in about two weeks. If you bring me sandblasted housings and manifolds, I'll ceramic coat them for the cost of the material.

thats a very logical explaination. makes sense to me.

Have you pressure tested it? How well do you trust your pressure gage (the one used to fill)?

Yeah, I do have a 1G BOV on the car. Guess I'm looking for a s-afc AND a 7cm housing. Thanks again for the help! Jason

and since i assume this is referring to me ill try to help out. Yeah, actually I was Thanks for the input, and for not being salty about my shit talking whats your 60fts like? as im sure you know, strong fwd cars SUCK for 60fts. what kind of tires are up front? i dropped over a half second with nitto 555rs on 15psi. of course ETs or another good set of slicks would be much better, but like me, you have another car for full race duty. actually, traction hasnt been a problem with the 16G. I cant get it to spool enough off the line for traction to be an issue. With the t25 and its lower rpm/spool point, traction WAS an issue - I could leave with 10psi. Now, the converter is trying to flash (at say 2800rpm) and the 16G is only making 3-5psi. Best 60' with the t25 was 2.1xx, best with the 16G is 2.4xx. definetely need some suspension mods. motor mount inserts help (road race sells them for $80) and even awd equal-length half shafts wouldnt hurt. an lsd from quaife would be ideal. Yeah, I've heard the motor mount inserts are a huge help. I'll have to look further into that when I can actually put enough power to the ground to need'em! i personally hate launching a fwd car. whats worked best for me is just bringing it out at around 3500 and just letting it get the tires spinning and then nailing 2nd. 1st gear is pretty much useless any way you do it. my best 60ft has been a 1.9x on the nittos. not bad at all for fwd dont have much experience with autos--but if you have any specific questions 12sectalon (dan weaver) or pavo could more than help you out on converters and upgraded trannys etc etc. Yeah, I was talking to them a few months ago about beefing up the auto. I think I've decided to try and swap in a 5speed when I finally screw up the auto. You just cant match the fun of a 5 speed car with an auto, imo. [qb][/qb]</font> [ 01 August 2002, 02:12 PM: Message edited by: Blupastu TSi ]

It seems to run best around 16-17psi. Could the 6cm housing be causing crazy back pressure in the exhaust manifold, creating excess heat? The intercooler is now hot to the touch after normal driving, but with the T25, it was always right around ambient temp., even after beating on it. Definately, an AFC is on the list, but its past the cost of the 7cm housing. Which do you think I should do first? [ 01 August 2002, 12:04 PM: Message edited by: Blupastu TSi ]

lon tubes = long tube headers TFS top end = Trick Flow Specialties (twisted wedge) heads and intake You should be fine spraying a 75shot.

How about the 1G M/T cams? Its about time for a tb swap, so it'll be a good time to change out cams as well. So far as the automatic, I looked into the valvebody/end clutch kit but I dont want to drop any money into the auto. I believe for a street/strip car to be truely fun, you need a 5 speed. As soon as I waste the auto, i'll swap in a 5 speed. Thanks again! Jason

great! Thanks for the reply. looks like I'm in the market for a new 'housing.

Your right, you MAY not need it. High enough fuel pressure may be able to force enough volume through the stock lines. Still if I had any real money it the motor itself I would want to be sure. Guess he could always throw it on the dyno and watch the A/F

You guys have probably seen me being cracked on because of the "limited" performance (or lack there of) of my 16G/MKIV talon. I used a stock exh housing from my 1992 TSi, which I believe is a 6cm^2 housing. I DID port and polish it nicely though. If this is the case, could this be why I only picked up .5 seconds in the 1320 after the swap? It ran 14.7 with the T25 and 14.2 with the 16G. MPH seems to be unchanged, as it has stayed between 96-98. I had expected 13.8 out of the combination since I have most of the necessary supporting mods (minus fuel and timing control): 3" turbo back exh larger SMIC 1G BOV 190lph fuel pump and rewire 2 1/8" turbo inlet/maf tube 2 1/8 IC piping 1G throttle body Do you think a 7cm^2 housing would get me to the 13.8 I wanted? I know 4 tenths is ~ 40hp. keep in mind it IS an automatic FWD car, which have smaller cams and poor traction. If not, what should I do next (besides sell the car and get a AWD 5speed!). When the auto finally goes, I will be swapping in a 5 speed. Thanks in advance for your advice! Jason

definately, I too would suggest larger lines. I took the stockers out and damn... what a fangled pos. poor bends (crushed), some 90deg turns, etc. Also, you're right on with the 80% duty cycle in a forced induction application.

From what I've found there are only two intank manufacturers. Bosch and Walbro, they're just marketed under different names. From my understanding, the Bosch is a higher quality pump. [ 31 July 2002, 04:25 PM: Message edited by: Blupastu TSi ]