20G TSi

All the information I obtained when building the fuel system for my stang was that if you're going to run a high flow fuel pump on the street, you need a return line. You dont mention what fuel pump you're using. Some pumps like the BG H/R 220 (the one on my mustang) dont have a internal relief valve/regulator, and require a return line or they'll burn up with a quickness.

You're right when you say the wet kit sprays fuel and n2o. The dry kit just sprays n2o and ups the fuel pressure for added fuel. direct port is injected into each intake runner, as opposed to one jet into the throttle body/intake tract.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 1bad66duece: i have an ihi turbo vj14 is the modle number,told its from a mazda,not sure what type,does anyone need one?does anyone know what its off of????<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I'm looking for a cheap IHI for a old 88 subaru GL wagon field beater I might be interested if you're willing to part with it for cheap. Not sure exactly where that PN came from, but there's another subaru guy on this board... maybe he can tell us.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Lustalbert: Another one to try, Mondello (heads by Mondello, Dr. olds ect.) Not sure what he charges to do a chevy heead, but his drag porting on olds 455 heads are good for 120 hp or more he used to race chevy in ski boats, so i am sure he know some chevy tricks to<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Mondello is the man.

your ideal of practical and mine are obviously two different things [ 11 February 2002: Message edited by: 20G TSi ]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by kenny: He said it was a driver. I don't consider .600 lift a driver. [ 11 February 2002: Message edited by: kenny ]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I have a 0.602" lift solid roller in my mustang. It is quite streetable, it'll sit and idle at 900rpm, pulling 15-18in/hg vacuum. Hell, the brakes even work well without a canister. But that is on a 408ci motor. A 302 or 351 wouldnt pull that kind of vacuum - that cam would suck in a small cubic inch street car. <u>Here are some specs on my 408:</u> Probe Industries forged steel crank Probe light weight forged flat-top pistons Eagle 6.250" H-Beam rods and ARP bolts Edelbrock Vic Jr. heads, NO PORTWORK!! Edelbrock Vic Jr. Intake, portmatched to heads Barry Grant 950 Race Demon carb Crower custom cam, 0.602" lift, 106degree lobe sep. Main Stud girdle and rocker arm stud girdles 1 3/4 long tube headers w/3" collectors this is a very streetable combo that makes serious HP at or below 6000 rpm and holds 500+ ft/lbs from 2400rpm - 6700rpm. Its a pleasant daily driver. [ 11 February 2002: Message edited by: 20G TSi ]

USE FORD MOTORSPORT gears for the easiest install. When ford machines their ring and pinion sets, they do so to exacting tolerances. On an assembly line, there is NO time to break out dial indicators and mess with shims for each individual rearend. In most cases, if you're going from MOTORSPORT gears to another set of MOTORSPORT gears, you dont have to mess with shims, just use the stock peice(s) (but you'd still want to check clearances to be sure). GL Jason