20G TSi

I'd have to disagree, but its your ride! At some point you will absolutely need at the very least a piggy-back computer, if not a full blown DFI system. If you're talking about making that much power, it would be silly to not have some type of tuning s/w... Or do you think you'll be able to use the same EEC chip for 8lbs of boost as you will for 12+?

I'll correct ya...carcka! The biggest I've seen is 160#, yes 160#. They were experimental and used on a mid 7 second car. I've seen 50# for a reasonable price, but theres got to be something between 50 and 160. lol</font> Unless you just plan on dumping in fuel to control detonation, 36lb injectors should be (more than) adequate.... a previous setup I had dyno'd 437rwhp with only 30lb injectors, and was still running a tad rich on the high end. Unless 500+ rwhp is your goal, I wouldnt go with bigger injectors... especially if you plan on driving the thing daily. For general rule, use the following conversion: HP = (cc per minute / 5) x 8 HP = (lbs per hour x 2.04) x 8 (8 = Number of cylinders)

Where were you three days ago That T-66 still looks rediculously large. I dont know though...

i know it wont add HP, but since I am running more air to the car, shouldnt I add more fuel??? and what size injectors should I go with.</font> Thats what your mass-air meter is there for. You shouldnt need to add any extra fuel pressure. The computer will sense more air going in, and compensate by holding the injector open longer (thus, more fuel).QB]</font>btw, this is sufficient until the injectors duty cycle is close to 90%

i know it wont add HP, but since I am running more air to the car, shouldnt I add more fuel??? and what size injectors should I go with.</font> Thats what your mass-air meter is there for. You shouldnt need to add any extra fuel pressure. The computer will sense more air going in, and compensate by holding the injector open longer (thus, more fuel). I'd stick with the stock injectors until you get the juice. Then I'd get 24-30lb'ers (dependant on the size shot, and whether or not you're running a wet or dry kit) and that fuel pressure reg.

an adjustable FPR will bring you nothing (or very little) unless you swap out injectors or have boost in the equasion.

True... more important than the turbo itself is the hardware/software to tune the thing in order to keep it together.... Doesnt your motor have the cast pistons? If so, you'll break/melt the ring lands off with a quickness with a poor tune.

conventionally, single turbo kits for v8's feed off of one cylinder bank (thus, 4cyl feeding the turbo comment). Thats what I was talking about. sounds like you already know what you want.

I might be wrong, but I think the T66 is a bit big for your application. Not sure, but since you're going with a single turbo kit, only 4 cyl. are feeding the turbo. Low compression and small displacement might make that turbo hard to spool without some chemical spool (nitrous). I know there are other more efficient turbos out there, but dont overlook a T3/T4 hybrid. they're really hard to beat for the price, and I'd imagine you'll need some extra cash to fab up a exh manifold/header and flange.

Thanks again for the info, I'll be trailering the bad boy home today from the dayton area today. Should make for a fun trip. On a side note, I'm now looking for a early G-Body with the 307ci V8. If anyone knows where to get one cheap, pls let me know Thanks again, Jason

Really? hmmm... the owner said this car doesnt have a smog pump, and this guy at work said they didnt start that until '73. Its possible someone took the smog pump off though, its a one owner with 68k original miles so its kind of doubtful. The guy I'm buying it from is a complete idiot also, so it could be there. Any idea's on how much the pre-emissions 455's made? I think its a good buy for $200 even though its a land yaht.

lol... I'm picking it up for 200 bones, so even if it IS a dog, thats o.k. I wasnt expecting a 10second 1972 Olds 98 (LMAO!). Have you ever seen one? They're about 17' long and probably weights in over 4500lbs.

Sweet, THANKS! Jason

it IS a 455 rocket. The current owner said it says "rocket" on the air cleaner. hmmmm.....

cool... I'll have to hit kenny up. I'm not sure if its a 455 "rocket" or just the standard 455. It DOES have a 4 barrel carb, so I'd guess a rocket? Thanks in advance, Jason

I'm picking up a 1972 Olds 98 with a 455 big block this wknd... Does anyone know how much HP the stock 455 makes? Thanks in advance! Jason

The leak at the injector to engine (intake manifold or head???) is probably due to a worn or torn O-ring on the injector. You can get a fuel injection overhaul set from autozone which has the o-rings, or you could try to find them by themselves. the fuel rail could be the same thing... I dont know honda's much, but most of the imports have an oring on the fuel line to fuel rail, which could also be warn and torn. GL Jason

yeap, works great. I saw that idea from one of the DSM vFaq's so I guess it works for more people than just me. The original vFaq said to thread the fuel rail for the -AN fitting, but was updated (I guess because that leaked) to say just use JB Weld. When mixed properly, its some strong ass stuff. GL [ 24 May 2002, 08:22 AM: Message edited by: Blupastu TSi ]

You might think its ghetto, but it'll work. You could JB weld the -AN fitting to the fuel rail... I had to do that with my '92 DSM when I upgraded to 7/16" fuel line and it worked nicely. GL Jason

I'm helping a friend put a t3/t4 hybrid in his suzuki swift. lol.. He's planning on 30lb of boost, the crazy shit. anything is possible....

That sounds like it is probably the case. I'll have to have a look at the head. Thanks all who replied! We just want to be sure of the cause before we go and put the head back on and have a repeat occurance. Thanks again, Jason

Oh, to add, its been running great with this head for about 4 months..... His only mods are the aircan cut/maf silencer removal. He doesnt even have a manual boost controller, so he's running stock boost.

Whats odd is that its broke off 1/3 of the valve head, not the stem. His chipmunk description was right on. weird.... This is a head from a junkyard, unk. miles. The old head was a TB victom.

well that narrows it down!!! Thanks man. I'm wondering if his turbo will be screwed up also, considering a peice of stainless steel valve material went through it.

A friend of mine with a 1G TSi just called with a puzzleing question. "What would make a valve break?" I've heard of people burning valves, but he says this one looks like a chipmunk bit part of it off. He's bringing it to me so I can see. So, what would cause ONE valve to break? He says everything else is fine, the roller was still on the tappet and the cam. Any comments would be appreciated. Jason