rl

The misinformation in this thread is great! He will be running a single turbo, running off of all 8 cylinders, you just run a crossover pipe and a Y infront of the turbo. His stock SOHC engine can handle 8-12psi all day long as long as it is tuned correctly. Look at TDC's single kit for the SOHC 4.6's, they make well over 400rwhp and are very streetable and reliable.

my machine shops does 500 miles no boost, be sure to change the oil (once after first start, once after first drive, than 100-300-500 miles) than its ready to be boosted and beat on

I use an internal compressor, then wiggle it out of the hole in the A-arm. there is another way to do it, where you leave the strut hooked up, and the spindle, and take out the 2 back bolts, put the spring in, and jack it into place (its acctualy the easiest way) A guy on corral has a full write up on how to do it this way..search for MFE in the windsor forum (there might be an article in the tech section as well) www.corral.net it is 100% different from doing a honda. [ 19 May 2002, 05:43 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

Top of the transmission, near the firewall, kind of behind the starter. It will be held in by a big clip that is bolted down with a 10mm bolt. remove the bolt, and disconnect the connectors going into it and it will pull out. it will be easier from above the car, infact, I doubt you could even see it from underneith [ 15 May 2002, 02:45 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

I have seen P/V contact snap valves like twigs on more than one occasion. they bend the first hit, and break on the second. wait a minute..the shortblock was fine? it didnt hurt the pistons at all? if thats the case it wasnt PV contact...where there any peices of the valve in the cylinder/ if not I would bet it was detonation 'eating' away at the valve [ 15 May 2002, 12:58 AM: Message edited by: rl ]

Its a possibility that there was a damaged valve guide and it cause the valve to hang enough to hit the piston. how was everything else on the head? was the valvetrain ok? how about the shortblock? (besides obvious damage)

If it looks like a chipmunk was eating the face of the valve, it could be detonation.. [ 14 May 2002, 07:12 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

Less than the El Camino. TurboRex dynoed 180fwhp.</font> I think it was like 186 (like 176 torque), this was with a DANGEROUSLY lean (15:1...no kidding) air fuel ratio... I would wager to say he is pretty close to the 200fwhp mark now with a hair more boost and his fuel problem figured out. thats a dead stock motor with a turbo (pulleys and exhaust of course) [ 13 May 2002, 10:50 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

The controller greddy gives you, which basically uses the MAP sensor to up the voltage to the injectors, and slighty retards the timing, it comes with the kit for 95+ civics. And I'm sorry but there is no cookie cutter optimization, it can come close, but the best way is to get it on a dyno with a wideband and play with it.</font> Sorry, I missed this reply before. I didn't realize you were talking about turboing a B16A. If you do just a B16A swap CORRECTLY there is no tuning needed. If you turbo a B16A properly, there is not much tuning needed, but extra tuning never hurts and would definitely help in most cases. The blue box Greddy gives you in the 92-95 kit doesn't allow for any adjustment, so I don't know what tuning you are going to do with it. Also, it does not retard the timing. You have to do that yourself by mechanically retarding the distributor. The blue box stops the MAP sensor from seeing boost, and therefore prevents the CEL from coming on. It also acts as a boost dependent fuel regulator to richen the air/fuel mixture under boost.</font>yes, it acts as a electric FMU, similar to what vortech uses on the returnless style fuel systems for 99+ mustangs. tuning? timing and a AFPR, for starters, possibly lose the blue box in favor of a SAFC. ohh, and he is using those cams because ported vtec heads flow very, very well (for a honduh engine hehe) and the lighter cams, and valvetrain allow him to rev his -probably built- shortblock to the freaking moon. [ 13 May 2002, 07:43 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

lol, yes! back to the original subject...did you decide on doing the zc+turbo swap yet?

Correction:What I meant to say was the it keeps the cam on the higher Vtec cam PROFILE, not cam as originally stated.[/QB]</font>couldnt you do that with a VAFC? and what do you mean 'so lift is no longer a variable'? more lift at low rpm =/= more power [ 13 May 2002, 06:37 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

Firs off, I understand how a cam works, and how an internal combustion engine works, I have a LOT of expeirnce racing/building and tuning all kinds of ford 302 combos, the principles are the same. (I built the short block in my car, did all the port work on the heads, I've done super charger installs, turbos, and probably 20+ head swaps, cam swaps etc) My point was the car probably isn't going to run as well as it can with one cam retarded say 1* and the other advanced 1*, The best thing to do would be to get custom ground/turbo grind cams. I have yet to assemble a OHC Honda short block, and I'm not sure I would want to as the main clearances have to be MUCH tighter than with the engines I am used to dealing with (90% of the oil pressure in a 302 is built on the cam bearings vs. The majority of the pressure in a OHC engine being built on the mains) generally, I just do head swaps/engine swaps and installs.

You can dial out overlap with cam gears. I don't know anything about "vtec killer cams". There are cams that are turbo specific that generally have slightly higher lift with roughly stock duration on the intake cam and shorter duration on the exhaust. The only way to kill vtec that I know of is to either disable it (disconnect the vtec solenoid) or get a roller cam system. Even if you kept the compression ratio the same on the B18B LS somehow (thicker headgasket, lower CR pistons, or milled the non-vtec head to raise compression on the stock LS motor), the LS-Vtec will still produce more power.Even when using stock Vtec cams,and that goes for NA or Turbo applications. As far as I know (but don't quote me on this!) a B16A head on a LS block only raises the compression by two tenths(.2) of a point. As far as head flow numbers go, I honestly don't know what they are off hand, but you could e-mail portflow and I'm sure they would be glad to give you the numbers accompanied by some charts. Later.</font> How would you dial it out with cam gears? advance one and retard the other? that seems as though it would fuck up the intake side... The reason I asked about compression was you wouldn't want much more than stock (what do those have, like 9.5:1?) for a turbo app.. Do they even make thicker head gaskets? if so that would only lower it like .05 of a point. I do agree that it would make more power, but its also a lot more money. Especialy if you are going to do pistons, because you might as well do rods, and sleeve the block vtec killer cams are simply high lift nonvtec cams (you disconnect the solenoid) I believe its the same as the roller cam kit. I'm relatively new to the OHC Honda engine stuff, my roots lay in ford v8's until I realized the money to be made in Honda's, not to mention they are very easy to work on, so all of my experience is from DOING

Vtec heads flow MUCH better than non-vtec heads,this is a benefit with or without turbo. With turbo a little overlap can be good just not too much,and overlap can always be dialed out. IF ( just for arguments sake) you had a turbo B18B (non vtec Integra LS) and then put a Vtec head on it from say a B16A2, you would make more power. Period. To get a non-vtec head to flow close/same as a Vtec head it requires over a grand in head work. But to each his own I guess.</font>How can you 'dial out' valve overlap? you need new cams (hence vtec killer cams, which make vtec turbo cars run like raped apes BTW) and you really don't want any. what are the flow numbers (cfm) on a vtec head vs a non-vtec? and the b18b with the vtec head is using vtec killer cams I would assume? also, wouldnt it have a pretty healthy compresion ratio? [ 12 May 2002, 09:22 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

lol! get out the torches and big hammers for the h22! vtec cams have to much valve overlap to work as well as they could with turbos...they are made to run NA..hence why vtec sucks with turbos. hehe, buy kenny's car. [ 12 May 2002, 06:08 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

The controller greddy gives you, which basically uses the MAP sensor to up the voltage to the injectors, and slighty retards the timing, it comes with the kit for 95+ civics. And I'm sorry but there is no cookie cutter optimization, it can come close, but the best way is to get it on a dyno with a wideband and play with it. [ 12 May 2002, 05:33 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

don't let them rip you off...you just need a new speedo cable.

when you put a turbo on a b16 there is some tuning involved to maximize the combo. Its not going to run as well as it can with greddys fuel control box. there are a few guys in cinci going 13.0's with b16's and a 50 shot of nitrous in civic hatchbacks...its all in tuning. Like I told you last night, either one is going to perform better with a turbo vs a roots blower. [ 12 May 2002, 04:21 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

powerstroke turbos are wrong for a single on a 5.0, I belive SOME of the cummins turbos MIGHT work. check out the junkyard turbo forum on www.mustangcentral.net some of these guys are very inteligent when it comes to doing turbo setups on 302's.

I personaly am NOT a fan of b16 swaps, I'm sorry, but i have yet to see one run impresive numbers, I have done 2 b16a turbo's now, and brians car just flat out runs better. The money you have in a b16 is not worth the slight hp advantage you MIGHT have if you can tune it. If you want to do a b series, do a b18c turbo'd. [ 12 May 2002, 02:51 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

The swap is a pretty straight forward deal...any Honda engine swap is, unless you start trying to cram h22's in civics. Rob Trying to find a smooth, discrete way of saying that I do engine swaps for money

heh...get a mouth gaurd for when you drop the clutch....you will understand after you barcode the pavement

I assumed d0oe's, but you might be right.

nice uneducated guess. *cough*AFR, EDELBROK, TFS, WORLD, FMS, HOLLEY*cough* you can run 2.02 valve heads on stock 5.0 blocks, it is a common thing, SOMETIMES you have to flycut the pistons, but most of the time you don't have to (the 2.02 valves are accutlay going to hinder the flow of those heads however...you cant unshroud the valves enough in a d0oe head to utilize a 2.02 intake vavle) It is ALWAYS a good idea to check the piston to valve clearence (clay) however, I do not think that this is his problem... [ 30 April 2002, 12:49 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

none of them, save your money for a turbo kit. talk to trborx... [ 29 April 2002, 05:31 PM: Message edited by: rl ]