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Does it sound like its missing? Does it do it with the belt off? Is the ballancer still in one peice? What happens when you rev it higher then 1500?

What does the car have done to it? What cam? It sounds to me like it has some closed loop idle issues and is loading up/going way lean in closed loop (rich and lean act very similar in a closed loop idle). Does it have an adjustable FPR? What cam does it have in it? You said the car needs 02's, have you replaced them? That could do it. Rob

You mean sitting at the machine shop smile.gif heh Should be good to go in a week. No more of this 17:1 air/fuel bullshit

You are correct sir! They use dead-head pumps. They are not like some chrysler apps that dont have a return line, but still return (they use a regulator in the tank) Rob

With the 03 cobra setup, some 42# injectors, and a tune from jerry w. @ www.fordchip.com you will be golden. The returnless system is damn good when tuned properly.

The TFI could be suspect as well. Will it start after cranking for a while? Tell him to hold WOT for a few seconds while cranking, then let off the gas still while cranking and see what happens (that will close the injectors, if its a fuel pressure issue will allow the car to build pressure, and in the same respect if its a flooding issue it will start as well)

Does it not turn over? If so then thats starter heat soak. If not I need more details smile.gif

PM me again I can port E7's, however i cant do flow numbers. I suggest buying a set of cast iron gt-40 heads, you will save money in the end.

Chek your private messages

Low 13's with that IRS will be tough. It is weaker than erics driving skills. Do the pinto....ultimate sleeper.

Several people have done MAF conversions on the car, I'm not sure on the specifics (as to what computer was used) but I'm fairly sure it was a 'kit' sold by pro-m. If you are going to put the engine in something, use a merkur wiring harness, it makes the install VERY easy. Trying to make a Xr4TI reliably fast on the otherhand is NOT so easy. Put it in a ford fairmont or fox body mustang. Cheap, light, and fast.

You are correct sir. There is no need to know stock pressure (its ~42 on 2.3T cars) . If you will be converting the car to MAF (which I assume you will if you plan on making any power at all) you will be able to control the fuel with something like a tweecer or a eec tuner via the MAF curve, and global fuel adders (which just adjust the injector pulse width based on MAF readings) If you are NOT going to be converting to MAF then there is no point to have that fuel pressure regulator because the cars power output potential is going to be limited by the vain meter, not by the amount of fuel the engine gets. In all honesty to get a ford 2.3T to put out even 300rwhp, you need to convert to MAF. What kind of car is this in? Is it in a t-bird? or is it an engine swap into a different car?

Yes they are very popular. Better yet a tweecer RT, you can store up to 4 programs, control 216 functions (the eec only has 260 functions) do REAL TIME data logging, and read real time sensor data.

One of my friends made a circuit to disable it on startup. Go to www.corral.net/forums and do a search for 'Shade' (his user name).

99+ the connector changed, anything else will work. But WHY? If you are mostly stock you don't need more injector. Stock injectors are fine until 300+rwhp N/A.

Yep, Mike has done all my machine work for a few years, he is VERY VERY good.

Bah, what he needs is for someone to cut a thick peice of cast iron. My cheap-o Metal chop saw I use for cutting mandrel bends wouldnt touch the thing. Either that or a different style T3 exhaust housing with a wastegate flapper...

the 19# injectors from the vic are larger? wow. You need to have the car tuned, or get a air meter from a place like pro-m that is calibrated for the correct injectors.

PM me for my number, we will talk.

They are orange. The cougar used to have tan injectors which are 19's as well. http://ebay1.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_905b4b4e3f5fcb49f3e05adfc81c9ac1/i-1.JPG 24's are blue top. http://ebay1.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_3f68e63cbed94eb6efc9a9e8c209cfc5/i-1.JPG 30's are red top http://ebay3.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_644985db4cf3ed36de59c3365766addf/i-1.JPG 36's are dark blue. And 42's are bright green.

They are high impedance 19# injectors.

What the honda man said. Get ARP head-studs too.

Thank you thats all I needed

I'm installing one on a stratus...and the instructions are all in Japanese. Do I wire it exactly the same as a SAFC I? Or do I have to learn Japanese?

Cool cool, just get some high speed steel drill bits, I dont have any that arent destroyed right now Another option would be to take the part to M&M machine shop (in the same building that bill is, the guy who painted your wing) and pay them to remove the bolt...I bet it would be like $20.