Science Abuse

depends on your HP handicap. if you had identical horsepower, yet steeper gears, you would reack speed X faster, however the chalower geared car would rech speed X...and keep on goin. Despite your gears, you still nee the HP to turn them. Also, you have to consider the transmission gearing, manual or auto, weight of the car, aerodynamics, planetary alignment, etc tongue.gif But in fuzzy math theory, you would reach the speed first.

well, its sold and gone, so i guess it dont matter. but for the sake of visual aid, that turbo has an internal waste gate smile.gif

thats whet he's looking for, the J-build. Its Jesse, fubarian, you know him, Jay. How about a price estimate? I remember you did something some way and you regretted it...what was it?

have you tried cussing at it?

freind needs some work. Rebuild with newer parts so it doesnt suck so much ass. anyone?

ummm, no, he works out of yours I recomend rob over myself for the headers, no doubt. I'm just a cat back kinda guy...with little time...for now

I broke down and read the directions with teh batterie. Seems I'm only supposed to use the side terminals for car starting, the tops are for accesories. Oh, wait, MY BATTERY HAS NO FUCKING SIDE TERMINALS! looks like its back to jegs tomarrow

650 CCA battery started car fine...but wne to crap and would barely start the car. New battery is 800 CCA, optima red top, and wouldnt start the car on install. In a rush right now, no time to play. Apon return I will jump the car to life and hope the alternator charges the new battery, this in the hope that the only problem is that the new battery is dead. If thats not the fix, WTF else would be the problem? i got a race, need help fast

oh yeah, the less cutting the better. It seems that car companies, no matter how shitty the car may be, always use fucking 4 gauge steel Uber'pipe for the exhausts. Meaning the hardest pars of most installs is cutting off the stock pipe. Got a saw zaw?

Doubt that'll be a problem, seems gravity already removed the whole system.

otay, what was it we said, 4 bends? 5 bends? lets round up, 5 bends. 5 bends, 1 Y pipe, 1 muffler, some rolled steel, and an 8 inch chrome tip. from jegs: 5 2.5" manderel J bends = $89.95 1 cheap ass muffler = 15.99 or 1 decent flowmaster muffler = $70 From Meijer: 1 chrome Y tip (to be used for a Y pipe) = $12 1 straight 2.5" section (incase we need extra)= $5 from home depot: 1 bar cold rolled steel, 1/8" = $3 Now, I get paid $11 an hour to weld at work, this will be at least an hour job, so... From Wendys: One Classic Triple Value meal, small frosty that's 'bout $130

How would u like to put an exhaust on an 84 supra, mine fell off... all of it.</font>I dont see a problem If you bring me steel, I will weld.

yeah, 2.0 is insanely low,and it doesnt make sense to intall 2:73s, since thats equal, if not lower then stock gears. The most accurate way is to pop off the diff cover adn start counting teeth.

when ya find one,lemme know, I'll do your system, bring me the parts and $5 for the wire. I just like working on odd ball cars.

BAWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHHA gasp BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1853553109

Stop if this gets obvious and you've already done it, which you proly have did you drain the block? how much water did you put in it? Sounds like you filled the radiator, startedthe car,it cycled the water through and filled the block with it. Now, just re-fill the radiator, run the car again, check it, repeat as neccisary. Your car hasno cats,right? If you were eating it, it should be condensing in the exhaust and dripping out the tail pipe, have you checked your oil? [ 29 August 2002, 01:05 AM: Message edited by: BlackBird ]

question...da hell is an FRA? I go through progressive, full coverage. liability only through Safe Auto was $4g a year for me, i say Fk dat

dude, i pay a grand every 6 months for my Tbird, only have about 8 speeding tickets, in the last 2 years. And I know I'm a better driver then most, no accidents...oh, and I've been trained. lol well, back the building a 4 port, i found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1852474936 waday think? using tot he exhaustports to gauge life seems a bit daft, but it seems like a good deal, great for a rebuild. Also, this kit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1852812495 It runs down the # and specs for the parts...and I'm lost. lol [ 23 August 2002, 09:19 PM: Message edited by: BlackBird ]

I was thinking breifly of a T2,but this will be a second car, and I'm afraid to see what another sports car will do to my insurance Ben, cooja grab a price off that N/A? Under a grand would be good Since tiss will be a car built for turns, the rear wheel toe'in option is a plus, was that just offered in 87-88?

hmmm, so maybe I should just find the cheapest FC I can and give Adkins a call?

i could rap it in duct tape, better then kevlar!

thats it? dont need no studs or anything? I was kinda worried about it blowing apart like an acordian.

good news, you fox body bird is compatible with many fox body stang parts, including some headers and H pipes. you still need to route it past the gas tank, doubt you could go much bigger then dual 2.25. Honnestly, with your "state of tune", a single 3" exhaust would be much better. a couple less hp, but you have more torque. Plus its easier/cheaper/lighter then duals.

ok, I am getting a spare 13B with it...whats the recipie for a bullit proof 13b? I wanted to race port it, but I know that compromises strength, so I'll be going with a slightly more mild port. What should be my shopping list, and where can I shop? Thanks Eric