Science Abuse

I'll have to have a look see to see if they still use them, it may have been replaced by a sensor, or moved. But, what it is is an "apendix" of wire with a little clip on the end of it. It will most likely be located somewhere on or near the MAF wire harness. its a long harness. Here it is on an older mocular, its only 1 http://www.tccoa.com/articles/engine/spouts.jpg I'm not sure though, they may have done away with it on your engine. They got rid of plug wires, wouldnt put it past'm tongue.gif

yeah forgot about the iming adjuster. But did you know you had already had one? Gotta love the EEC-V. Look for the octane pin, pull it and it retards your timing ever so slightly. Designed to keep your car from dying of bad gas. But, Reinhart Automotce burns chips that do many things, especialy on autos, onne of those things it switch that function over so that it advances the timing a couple degreas, for race gas.

there's a reason for that, actualy, a few A: where the hizzel you gunna fit that thing? B: it would do nothing but be different. Keep in mind, you're blowing air from 2 power adders into one. The blow would have to be big, in order to not be a restriction at high RPMs. YOu turbos won't be able to outflow the SC, and the SC wont be able to outflow the TTs. At that point, you might as well get rid of the TTs because they are an exhaust restiction, the suprcharger would already be supporting the power. A supercharger on turbo setup is very hard to get running right, and in the end, its realy futile. After the money you'll asking yourelf "why didn't I just spray a wet shot to 2000 rpm?"

Yeah dude, easy mod, fairly cheap, too. Go with Steeda's, best on the market for the modular, they come with their own balancer, the piggy back sets reuse your old crank pully. By bolting the crank pulley bact on to the UD pully, you increase rotating mass. The Steedas dont do that, so you'll get the most gain pissible. I've been running the Steedas for a few months now, with an Optima red top, and have had no problems. Got'm off ebay for $120 shipped. watch out for the belt when ya tighten them down, dont want it to get squished behind the crank pully, right Snow plow? tongue.gif [ 27 November 2002, 12:44 AM: Message edited by: the Shocker ]

want s'more vague to go with that whatnow? ? tongue.gif what knind of blower do you want? I'm assuming centrafugal, how big do you want it? how much power do you want? Are you making brackets and pipes or do you want a kit? More info, woman

Yeah, 5 hp is about right, but thats what jegster parts are for

I've never seen a push mower with an electric start(refering to the battery comment) smile.gif [qb] wait, so it doesnt need a battery? how does it maintain spark?

dude, jon, I doubt this thing makes enough power to turn those gears tongue.gif And anyways, it doesn't have to go on a gokart, how about a skooter? Or a Bicycle? ANy ideas on how make some kinda clutch for it? Also, does it have to be laid flat?

nope, no blade, can I use anything else? A stand can be made easily enough. It was a pullstart. I'd like to make a gokart or somthing stupid out of it.

I've got a brigs and stratton engine in a box in my basement, pulled from a push mower, I'd like to get it running over the winter. I think all it needs is a battery, but I could be wrong. I can bring it to a meet, anyone care to have a look at what I have?

Wrench Wench

I was under the impression you just stuck it on your tongue have you tried calling a few transmission shops?

what year sentra? under $1000 you say?

muahah, you weren't looking hard enough tongue.gif : If one cant afford to straight up buy the Mclarren tuner car, heres some shite I found: parts available: Eibach Spring Kit Borla Exhaust $623 http://www.maxrpm.com exhaust (rumored development) Blackbird Exhaust XKR engine / supercharger aftermarket supercharger, suspension, braking, traction control, ground effects: http://www.specialvehicles.com/ls/ I'll post more as I find it

thank you. If ya had given a year I would have known exactly what you were talking about. The size of the exhaust is standard, what you have is a fancy rear facia and neato tips, the LSE is more or less an apearence option. The ford version of the 3.9 V8 hasn't been around long enough, nor been inthe right cars for an aftermarket to develope for it, so you'll be hard pressed to find parts for it. Given the size of the engine and cat "structure", the borla system will do you about jack for flow, but will improve scavenging so you'l pick up a few ponies. I'd suggest finding some one who can tune that computer in the car. Any idea what computer it runs off of? Oh, the motor was derived from a Jaguar powerplant. See if you can find any similarities, and some tuning and tweaking options may present themselves factory rated: Acceleration, 0-60 mph, sec 7.2 Standing quarter mile, sec/mph 15.4/91 Top speed, mph 142 doubt you'll make it onto the open comp list...maybe from a roll [ 17 November 2002, 07:50 PM: Message edited by: BlackBird ]

02 Lincoln LSE is an optioned out Lincoln LS, and is the only LS I know of. You sure you dont have an LSC? If you have an LSE, dig: http://www.carlist.com/conceptcars/lincolnls.html [ 17 November 2002, 04:09 PM: Message edited by: BlackBird ]

umm....please specify year You tellin me you have one of these? http://us.autos1.yimg.com/autos.yahoo.com/i/b/02/LINLS7.jpgtongue.gif

been done, expensive though. The fastest modulars on earth use those. Sub 7 secong cars. You can make about 450bhp max on your engine safely. If you want to run 451bhp and above, you'll need a bottom end build. Mod max is da shit. Talk to Mike Tyminski at modular performance [ 16 November 2002, 09:17 PM: Message edited by: BlackBird ]

addendum: Windsor Valve Covers Use 14 bolts Romeo Valve Covers Use 11 bolts. so count'm tongue.gif

Quote: -------------------------- If the 8th digit in your VIN number reads a W, it is a ROMEO 4.6L engine. If your 8th digit reads 6, you have a WINDSOR 4.6Lengine. In 99 Ford came out with what they call PI heads (performance improved). They are Windsor heads as opposed to Romeo heads. The Windsor heads use a small journal camshaft and the Romeo heads use a Large journal cam. There are other small differences also but will bolt up to either block. Bolting up does not mean bolt on swap. The 99 and up 4.6 Mustang uses a windsor engine. The valve lift is .510 intake and .530 exhaust on the Mustang. They would be a better value than the SVO heads for a killer engine build up. Also the 5.4 PI truck heads are the same as the 99 4.6 mustang GT heads(same P/Ns). -EECDOC ------------------------ happy?

just use a thin oil with a low frying temp. The first time you apply the brakes, it'll vaporize right off. Anyone hear familiar with the Porsches brake cooling system? It sprays water on the brakes under heavy peddlin'. Doesn't seem to hurt anything tongue.gif

umm, are you basicaly asking where to put the power adder? I'd think it best to have the turbos blow through the MAF then intot he engine, rather then suck air through it. That way, the MAF accuratly reads the temp of the air actualy going intot he engine. But maybe its not as vital on you EEC-IV cars.

ditto /\ I used to intall'm, they all came oiled. Jsut shoot'm with WD40 every once in a while. the brake preaseure will be more then enought to overcome the lubricant. Just expect your first stop to take a bit longer then most, and be alote smokier

tuner car? TUNER CAR? BWHAHAHAHA! Naw man, I'm just looking for a beater to thrash around the eastern ohio wodds in the NeOhio SCCA rallys

gap your plugs at 47, see if it helps. you fan, it has two speedd, fast and faster. Faster is for when the AC is on.