Ackbar00

That is Rad!

Sweet!

Ummmmm, really? https://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/d/1969-boss-429-body/6756511860.html

Got a few things done. Trans mount and new crossmember is in. Got the carb intake on with the ARP hardware. Test fit the Alternator and got all that wiring sorted out. Got the carb out, test fitted that and got the fuel lines all sorted out. So my big issue is still this damn PS line. I am now back to trying to get the Powerflex hose to working. My Hydro line might have worked..... if it wasn't short. Like Fuck my life.... i didn't take into account that the PS pump sits higher with the fox body AC delete bracket than where the 69 pump sits. I had the line modified with a different fitting to see if that would help and no dice. Have close to $100 in that line and I was at a point of having to get a new one made at $65. I "think" I found a way to make the Powerflex hose work (Which is what I wanted to do in the first place.....), just see when the other fitting arrives.

Here you go, practically has your name on it http://www.armslist.com/posts/9118306/fort-smith-arkansas-handguns-for-sale-trade--like-new-rock-island-m1911-a1--tactical-ii--full-size--10-mm-auto-with-1300-rounds-of-ammo---3-

Lol. No no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no !!

They banned bump stocks, so you should be good.

Battery Relocation Decided to build my own, EBay is a wonderful place BTW. Cost me about $100 for all of it. My new coolant overflow. Installed. Cleaned up the wiring, added split loom. Can also see part of the new motor mounts Clutch cable and pedal install. Since I couldn’t get the clutch hydraulics installed, I went with their cable setup. Install went about as expected. Probably should have replaced the master cylinder since I had it off, but I didn’t. Pedals installed with the new covers. Cable Bracket Done deal! And finally, the new motor and transmission is in place!! So now I can start the fun stuff. Install the intake, headers, Power steering, etc. Shot of the motor mounts Started test fitting the PS pump and my new hydro line. And we all caught up now. Had to order a new trans mount, once that is in, I can lock down the motor mounts and start to look at the driveshaft length.

Been a few months, but made some good progress. Wiring, wiring, wiring….. So in addition to the previously mentioned fuse panel, I also had to deal with the battery relocation and the MSD 6AL install. Trying to run these things in a way I liked and functionally worked was a challenge for myself. Overall, I think it works. Getting started. So I mounted the 6AL where the battery was. I ran its harness back forward to route down to where the factory harness was. I also decided to mount my coil on this side of the engine. Made for a lot shorter routes to the 6AL Finished up at the firewall. The positive and negative battery cables came through here as well. I grounded the battery at the factory post for the engine ground. And done. So now only connections that have to route over to the motor are the alternator and the connection for the distributor. Header “wrap” So I went overkill on protecting the clutch cable. I found the blanket on EBay, I think it was for a generator. It is basically a large turbo blanket. I removed it ends so that it would lay flat. Fitting on the header And using a stock fox cable as a guide, this should prevent the cable from getting damaged since it has to sit on the header. I also have some heat sleaving I am going to put on the cable. Looks a little ugly, but it will be down and should not be that visible.

Looks like your neighbor was working on his as well.

And to me, that sucks, its what makes the 03 Cobra, the 2nd Gen lightning and other Eaton type blower cars special.

Cant really hear the blower

I get a feeling those rims are, how should we say......

Plastidip, save the coin.

I thought I already won with the Caprice..... /Thread

Ill pass it around the office. PM me your cell Jarod, I got a new phone and don't have it no more.

http://chicagomotors.com/102670/2012-Chevrolet-Caprice-9C1-60L-V8-RWD-Police https://www.japaneseclassics.com/vehicle/1992-r32-skyline-gts-t-4/ https://www.japaneseclassics.com/vehicle/1993-jzx90-tourer-v/

Awesome!

Got my new radiator. Got it on a scratch and dent sale for 89$ shipped. Cant beat that. Had to trim up the core support to fit and it turned out pretty good. Also built a new Low insulator. A lot nicer than a cutup floor mat. Built my trans plug for the reverse lights and neutral safety switch. Working on figuring out my old alternator wiring. With the 3G conversion, I can remove a lot, not totally sure what can go. So I have a thread on vintage forums figuring that out. And finally, every new I have been doing electrical, I have not been using the factory fuse system. I had some really cheap fuse panels shoved behind the dash that I didn’t like. So I got this 7 circuit system from Jegs and started to replace the other stuff. Mounted it on the right of the dash upside down, so that I could have easier access to the fuses. Looks like it should work out well. Looking up from the floor: Well, that’s it for now. Waiting on parts to show up.

Well, I have not been idle, just feels like I don’t have anything done and I keep ordering parts. Sometimes I wish I could do things more half ass like others, it’s not like the car is pristine. Keep finding myself buying more things. A battery relocation to the trunk. A new Overflow. Paint for the engine bay. A 3G Alternator conversion. Sigh….. So to start, I was able to pull the brake pedal without pulling the entire assembly. I am honestly not sure if I will be able to get it and the brake pedal installed that way, but we going to give it a try So here are the pedals side by side. Next I cut the stock pedal And awhile ago, I decided to splurge and get some fancy pedals. I got these from https://www.srpracing.com/. Oh my they look cool Moving on, I had bought the Hydraulic setup for the clutch activation. Rest assured, after a few hours of trying to find a way to make this fit, it just won’t. In short, it looks like a previous owner (Here we go again….) decided to cut their own hole in the firewall and ran the speedo cable through there. Well, they didn’t cut it where I needed it. That aside, there is just no room. Assuming I could slot it to work, Id have to run new lines for the master cylinder and maybe move the brake tree. And even then, I was going to have to “squish” the spacer down and I was afraid it would strip the threads. I called MDL’s tech line and they were helpful. Even said they are developing a new system for 69 and 70 cars, but this does not help me right now. NOT a factory cut hole. Plus a very small amount of flat area that I need for the hydros And here you see the mismatch SO…. I decided to order MDL’s cable setup. Now they were very clear that it would not work with long tubes. But given what I am dealing with here, I decided to order it anyway and work around it. More on that when it shows up. China 77$ headers! Actually seem to fit really well. Plenty of starter clearance. The #5 tube I can get my bolt in. Don’t have to worry about Z Bar clutch linkage. Welds seem pretty good. Guess time will tell. One of the headers looks like it could interfere with the trans, but I think an exhaust shop can build something to clear. So I had a stock fox cable from when I got my trans stuff. Put it in and I see now why they said it would not work with long tube headers. I have about 2 inches of clearance. Even then, this is the only issue compared to the multiple issues with the hydro setup. So I have ordered a heat blanket. Going to wrap the header

Yes! But blue????? Use the 19's, don't even think twice. My old NA combo made 300/325, trapped almost 110 on 19# injectors. See so many cars running way to big an injector for an NA combo. Also, pull the plugs, bet they are major fouled. Save the 47's for a blower and a tune.

Seems like a bad ass project. I dig it.

Not really. I had the chance to, but decided in the end to stick with the carb. Felt like it would be less of a headache. Guess time will tell on that one. So, finally got some time and decided to get this motor pulled. Got my buddy Chad to help me and for the most part, everything went smooth. Here it is. Last time you see this combo: Carb Plate on, ready to be pulled: Out of here! So one fun note, found something else that previous owners thought was a good idea..... Can anyone guess what that is? If you answered a cut up floor matt for the lower radiator insulator, then you win! Lol. Something else to address. So now that I have access to the headers, I am thinking I am going to replace them. I used to have access to a sandblaster, and now I dont. I figure for what its going to cost to have done and painted, I could get these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-64-70-MUSTANG-260-289-302-TRI-Y-STAINLESS-RACING-MANIFOLD-HEADER-EXHAUST/170747829291 I mean, for $77..... they actually have a pretty good reviews on the vintage boards. Most of the interference issues are around the clutch Z bar. I wont have that so bonus. Plus for 300-350 HP, I think it should be plenty of header. Will also replace the radiator. they are $125 new on Ebay. I power washed the engine bay and pulled the front seat. Next up, look into the clutch pedal stuff.

Welp, that's it. I lost the race....