fush

Here is a stock engine bay http://palpatine.infinitedata.net/~dayglo/green%20rado/DSCF0119.JPG I was thinking something like this but rather than using the water I was gonna use a front mount. That would require that custom manifold too though. http://www.schimmelperformance.com/DSCN7088.JPG The other setups you cant see where the pipes go but I have seen one in person and it travels underneath the motor and to china and back. -jeff [ 10 October 2002, 10:51 AM: Message edited by: fush ]

Its going to go in my corrado (vr6). Research is almost complete, and this is one of the last pieces of the puzzle. Nobody really makes a setup for my car thats worth a crap to be honest. Most of the ones I have seen route the piping through a maze and back underneath the car around drive shafts etc. My two ideas so far are to modify the radiator support in the front and place the intercooler directly in behind where the grille is and run the piping in and out on the same side. I am not sure if there will be enough room to do it this way yet I still need to measure. The other option is to mount it lower and make a big sweeping pass from one side of the engine bay to the other. In this scenerio would it be better for the air to have to travel farther from the ic to the throttle body or from the turbo to the ic. I am guessing the shorter the path from the ic to the throttle body would be better. There is also the option of welding a custom tubular manifold and placing the throttle body in a better place, but I havent found anyone who will do it yet and I'm guessing it will cost out the ass to get one made. -jeff

Is there any advantage/disadvantage to running an intercooler which flows top top bottom versus end to end? I've been trying to devise a decent way to route intercooler piping from my turbo and back and the best I have come up with is to route it through a top to bottom intercooler with the inlet and outlet on the same side. If I run one end to end I would have to devise some elaborate tunnel of piping to get things connected which I would rather not do. The tb is basically directly above the outlet on the turbo, so am I going to run into any problems running the inlet and outlet pipes ontop of each other to the IC and back? Also another option is to connect directly up to the throttle body and bypass the intercooler all together but I dont like that idea. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. -jeff

Only problem is nobody really has a setup like mine. Everyone is trying to tune with FMUs and ecu upgrades but they all have trouble with going lean up on the top of the rpm ranges. I've seen people running 440cc injectors hit about 300fwhp with the fmu/ecu chip setup but they also have very erratic a/f numbers VERY high fuel pressure and tend to break when something minor goes wrong with their setup. I'm planning to run SDS on my setup and hopefully with the correct sized injectors (as soon as I figured out what that is) and a bit of tuning I shouldnt have those issues. -jeff

I am still trying to decide the correct size for my application. Using the calculation on the RC Engineering site it says I need something around 700cc for my application which seems rather large. Is there anything else to take into consideration when sizing fuel injectors other than the "standard" formula which they list on that site. HP X BSFC / num inj x max duty cycle -jeff

I am ordering an ecu shortly and one of the options I need to specify is whether I am going to be running low or high impedence injectors. From what I have been reading it appears one of the primary advantages of using a low impedence injector is that it has a shorter triggering time and may provide a better idle. Is there anything else I need to be concerned with in this choice? -jeff

Yes the car does have a diverter valve on it stock. There are a few places who make BOV kits for the car though and claim they dont cause any problems. I hear the best things about the ECS kit that uses the HKS super sequential and ECS also says you wont throw any weird codes with their setup so hopefully you wont have any issues if you have to take the car into the stealer for service. Unless you're planning to go wild and do a turbo upgrade or something I say get the 30 dollar audi TT225 diverter valve and be done with it. -jeff

I'm looking for someone who can weld aluminum and may be interested in helping me construct a few intake manifolds. The first should be fairly simple only need to weld an aluminum plate back to the bottom of a manifold I am going to cut open. I am also considering designing something like this. http://palpatine.infinitedata.net/~jweber/pics/vtex/manifold1.jpg http://palpatine.infinitedata.net/~jweber/pics/vtex/manifold.jpg I have a number of extra sets of bottom runners I just need to figure out the correct volumes for the log and find/fabricate a throttle body flange for the tb I plan to use. Anyone interested in tackling a project like this or can you recommend someone who can do it. -jeff

ECS is selling them for 129.95 which is the lowest I've seen so far. You should check out their website. http://www.ecstuning.com Also check out matrix engineering they sell the forge stuff but I couldn't find their price sheet. I've dealt with these guys before and all I can say is customer service A++ all the way. http://www.matrixengineering.cc I can only get deals on dealer parts I don't have any good hookup on aftermarket stuff. Also you may want to remember if you change stuff like this VW can/has been know to void your warranty. -jeff

ECS (http://www.ecstuning.com located in akron so they are close) sells a kit which uses the HKS super sequential which is supposed to be pretty good. I hear its one of the only setups out which places the BOV in the correct place so it doesnt cause a CEL. It goes for about 300.00 I'm going to be running a Forge diverter valve on my 1.8T project since it is just a heavy duty version of what comes stock, plus I'm not to fond of the loud woosh anyway smile.gif . I think those are about 130.00. Also another option is the diverter that comes stock on the audi TT 225 model. Its a lot more beefy than what comes on the vw models of the engine due to the higher output of the audis engine. Those can be had for about 20 bucks. Also with that if you have a warranty on your car they wont be able to tell you did any modifications (and then proceed to void your powertrain warranty). Let me know if you want one of those and I can get you setup with a dealer parts discount most likely. If you are running stock boost the stock diverter should be fine, you're only going to see surging problems and possibly failure when you get chipped. -jeff

A bigger turbo has clearance issues. Everyone I talked to running the t3/t4 setup had to hammer in the firewall to get it to fit half way decent. Oh well when the time comes for the vr to get a turbo it should have something a little bigger. smile.gif -jeff

So you are saying that the down pipe bolts to the block as well as to the turbo to help curb vibration? Dont happen to have a picture by any chance do you? If thats the case I may be able to modify the downpipe so I can bolt it to the back of the block to provide more support. Here is a pic of what the setup looks like. http://palpatine.infinitedata.net/~jweber/turbo.gif Thanks for the reply. -jeff

I am having trouble with my turbo coming loose from the exhaust manifold. The kit I got sent some shady bolts with it and they wont stay tight. I think it may have something to do with the downpipe and placement of the flex piece in it causing it to vibrate loose but I am not totally convinced. I've never seen how a factory turbo car manifold looks so I have nothing to go on but I think using studs in place of the bolts may help. Can anyone recommend a place I could buy some studs? I am thinking if I use those with some lock washers copper nuts and high heat loctite I may be able to rememdy the problem. Also any other recommendations on what to do to keep this thing together would be appreciated? Thanks. -jeff

I have a laptop already that I for the comm software I have now so hopefully it should be up to the task for this too. I am figuring if you're going to spend the money to go with the forced induction you might as well spend the money to get the fueling right the first time and not cut any corners which could potentially lead to destroying your equipment. Does anyone have any of these systems here locally that wouldnt mind letting me take a look? I have seen a TEC II before but none of the others. -jeff

OK so I am mapping out my new project and I am down to one of the final parts of it which is deciding what to do about fueling for my new motor. A little back ground. I am looking to add boost to my vr6. Turbo seems to be the way to go, but the problem is that nobody has decent software for the stock fueling system or they say they have it but wont sell it to you unless you buy their complete system and even then you dont actually get anything usable. I figure the best way to get around this is to get a stand alone system which is probablly a safer and less hacked way to go anyway. Now I'm still new to this and will probablly burn myself but then end result is a long way off which gives me plenty of time to figure out the pieces I dont quite understand yet or havent though about. What should I be looking for in a stand alone fueling system. Most of the vw guys seem to be using SDS, haltech, or TEC II. I have read the pros and cons of each, but will any one work as well as the other with proper configuration? The haltec seems to be a lot less expensive than the others. What other alternatives exist? How hard is it to tune a system like this, and am I just asking for trouble by wanting to learn to do it myself? My questions are most likley too broad and I'm sure I dont know enough yet to figure it all out I am just looking for a step in the right direction and maybe to learn a thing or two along the way. -jeff

Working on the same problem right now. We must know the same friend, or maybe its just coincidence. smile.gif I think I have it figured out but if someone knows the right way to do it I would be interested in knowing it. -jeff

OK I have never yanked a honda motor before. I have the new one ready to go in once this one comes out however there arent any tugs to attach the hoist to. In the shop manual I have it appears you have to bolt them on. Anyone ever done this before? Do I have to go buy tugs from the honda dealer and bolt them in or is there something I am missing. Its a d16y8 in a civic if that helps. Thanks. -jeff

Cool thanks for all the suggestions guys. Things should be ready later this week hopefully. Then once we get it all broken in and tuned up maybe we will come out and meet some of you all sometime. -jeff

Well there are two projects going on right now, one is really close to being done (and ready to be broken in of course) and one is still waiting for parts. My friend is turboing his civic (no flames please). He has the SOHC d16y8 motor bought all kind of stuff for it to make it hopefully hold some boost, a greddy turbo kit and a couple other goodies. The other project is for my car. I have to get my extra block and such checked out before I go and blow the money for the turbo parts though. -jeff

OK the motor should be back together and in the car in a few days. What would the proper break in procedure for a new turbo motor be? Should I reinstall it n/a and break it in before installing the turbo? Install the turbo and run super minimal boost? Also I have read that you should break in the motor with non-synthetic oil who has experience here. How many miles should tbe break in period last? Just want to make sure all the money that was spent so far doesnt go up in smoke doing something stupid. If you need more info to give suggestions please let me know. All help is appreciated. smile.gif -jeff

Can anyone point me to somewhere I can purchase a ring compressor for a honda engine (81mm piston size)? Also any recommendations on a local shop to get a crank polished and possibly get some honing done? -jeff