BIGGU

Yep Duff FTW. I would have used him had Insurance not been a bitch about it. Pricing and knowledge was awesome

Well I had planned to put 1070 in there but with the performance of the 1660 and price point it was hard not to put that in there instead! but yea that is one of the brand new items.

So I took apart my Sim PC and since I wanted to keep a few parts (namely the case, PSU, and GPU) I transplanted the other stuff into a new case. This is about 2 years old now, light use since it was from my racing sim. The GPU, case and PSU are all brand new for this. Specs Asus ROG z270i Intel i7-7700k G.skill Trident Z 2x8(16gb total) ddr4-3200 Samsung 860 evo 250gb WD Black 2tb Thermaltake versa h18 case GIgabyte GTX 1660 Ti gpu EGVA 750 GQ PSU 80+gold Coolermaster AIO liquidcooler ml240l RGB Custom sleeved 24pin cable Comes with Windows 10 Pro freshly installed and activated and ready to go. Im asking $1350 but CR price is $850 firm.

So I haven't really posted much because there really hasn't been much to update. With that said I did do a bit of work getting everything finalized and ready for the tune next Tuesday. My Uras Trunk spoiler showed up so ive got to either find a spoiler less trunk OR weld up the holes in mine. I also finished my HID retrofit by sealing the headlight lenses back up and got them bolted to the car. Mounted the new Tial QRJ blow off valve. And finally replaced all the clamps with Turbosmart Constant tension clamps. As much as it pains me I did have to put the stock bumper on because I still have no idea when my CMW kit will be showing up. I spoke to the place where I ordered and I can get BN type 2 instead but honestly it doesn't look as good as CMW

Its an old PC now by 4-5 years maby older. I built this when DDR4 was just released. Caselabs SMA8 Case Gray/Black two tone Asus Rog Rampage V Edition 10 Intel i7-5930K Quad channel Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4-3000Mhz 32gb 512GB Samsung 950 Pro M2. PCIe Gen 3 3x WD Black 1TB in Raid 1 (SSD backup and "Slow" storage) EVGA Titan X (Maxwell) Hydrocopper(founders edition with Hydrocopper Firmware + Hydrocopper waterblock) Antec AX1200i + Custom sleeved cables Alphacool ut60 420 (4 120mm fan) Alphacool ut60 580 (4 180mm fan) 2x Alphacool Eisbecher 250 MM res 2x EK Xtop revo D5 pump (PWM) BitsPower Full cover CPU block E22 16mm Acrylic Hardline Asus PG258q 240hz monitor Logitech G710+ keyboard BenQ Zowie EC2-b moust BenQ GSR+ mousepad This was my practice run doing custom PSU cables and sleeve. I learned alot and in the sim rig it came out 100% better. Here is the Sim PC. Just standard gaming and what not. I cant stand mics on headphones and with the mic on my desk it would pick up a ton of sound from the desk itself since its metal/ wood on top. I also never posted my network rack which is hidden in another room Rital 24u Rack enclosure Surfboard modem Ubiquiti Edgerouter X- SFP Ubiquiti Edgeswitch Lite 24port Raspberry Pi 3 (Ubiquiti controller and Pihole DNS server/ web block) Apple Time Capsule 3tb for Mac automated backups Tripplite smart PDU (for remote monitoring and power control of each port) TRIPP LITE SmartPro SMART2200SLT UPS I am actually about to replace the edgerouter with a Palo Alto PA-220 firewall here soon and I am going to re do alot of my wiring to make it neater.

Just moved not long ago so still building it all up but here is mine so far.

Just let me know. I'm very seriously considering picking up a GTX1070, EVGA G3 750 80+ gold PSU, and a Fractal design case and putting all the main system in it to sell complete for around $1200, Or $1500 with the monitor. The cooling stuff im sure not many people are going to want. I have pictures if anyone is interested.

Looking to sell my EVGA Titan X Maxwell GPU. This has been in my daily driver PC since I purchased it new. Never overclocked, never mined and has been watercooled since day one. part number 12G-P4-2990-KR Will include box and all original accessories. Comes with stock air cooler as well with the water block. Water block coolant gets flushed yearly, always ran distilled water only but it is an older block so plating may have flaked. $375 Next is a system package Intel i7-7700k https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117726 G.Skill Trident Z 16gb DDR4 3200mhz https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231914&Description=G.Skill%20Trident%20Z%2016gb%20DDR4%203200mhz&cm_re=G.Skill_Trident_Z_16gb_DDR4_3200mhz-_-20-231-914-_-Product Asus ROG Strix z270i https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-Z270-I-GAMING/ Samsung 860 evo M2 SSD 250gb https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/memory-storage/solid-state-drives/ssd-960-evo-m-2-250gb-mz-v6e250bw/ WD Black 2tb https://www.amazon.com/Black-Performance-Desktop-Hard-Drive/dp/B00FJRS628 $650 for all I have all boxes and what not. This was built for my racing sim setup however I have since sold it all and no longer have a need for this. Im debating selling it complete like this or throwing it into a case and adding PSU and the Titan X and selling it complete running but Id rather not do that. Never over clocked, never mined, always watercooled since day one. Next is a Heatkiller IV For Titan Xp, and 1080ti with an Aquacomputer Kryographics passive cooling backplate http://www.performance-pc...acrylic-nickel-bl.html http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-backplate-for-kryographics-pascal-nvidia-titan-x-passive.html This has been on my 1080ti Founders edition for a year or so now and worked well however I sold the 1080ti and really dont have a use for this. Ive only used Distilled water in this look and always flushed every 6-7 months. The only issue is I used Thermal Grizzly Conductonaught for the TIM and its kinda dried out under it. I tried to use alcohol and it didnt seem to take it off easily and I didnt spend much time trying. *Foggy that you see in the block is just condensation as I had just drained the loop and its not dry yet. For both $115. Dell S2716DG 27" 1440P 144hz monitor, Rev 04. This is a fantastic monitor and I considered using it for my secondary however my main PC has a 240hz 25" so the sizing would be weird. Either way this one has low hours on it as I used mainly VR for my racing sim setup. It does have some scratches in the back due to my monitor mounts but its purely cosmetic. https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-27-gaming-monitor-s2716dg/apd/210-agjr/monitors-monitor-accessories $350

So its been a few weeks but that doesn't mean I haven't been busy working on the car. I dont really remember what all got done but I will say what I do remember. First big thing is my solid sub frame bushings finally arrived after months of waiting. It looks like they also switched to a new design which is much nicer than the old stuff. Biggest thing on my list was getting the intercooler mounted in the car and ill be honest, it was a major pain in the ass to get it to tuck up high and give clearance for everything. This required cutting of the front frame rails and massaging other places for fitment. All in all its in place and i'm happy with where it ended up. I also got to work on the intercooler piping as well. This is the 3rd or 4th time I welded aluminum and while its not the prettiest its going to work and hold. While It looks like it works I was still not happy with the hot side. This is due to the turbo outlet I bought as part as the J pipe delete. The problem is that the piece is not angled and probably has a 120 degree which doesent line up with the 90 degree intercooler piping. So I decided to take my stock piece and cut it up and make my own. that actually comes out straight. sadly now that this all lines up better it throws off the rest of the intercooler piping and i'm going to have to cut and re do that as I don't like to have any tension on the piping. Having the tension just means its got a greater chance of coming off. Now that the piping is done which was my biggest hurdle I finally got back around to getting the car running. After alot of back and forth with a buddy and all the crank trigger sync errors we were seeing we decided it was best to replace the crank sensor. I did that and sadly it made no change. After throwing in the towel for a few days I remembered haltech has amazing tech support so I gave them a call and I spoke with Richard and he remotely connected to the ecu and ran through all the configurations and made a few changes. One big issue that I dont know how I missed was the IAT sensor was incorrectly calibrated. Rich did make a few setting changes when it came to the cam and crank sensors but to be honest I dont even recall what changes he made. Reguardless we found out that the battery that was in the car was shot probably due to the cold. One quick trip to NAPA later ive got a new battery and tried to start the car. Turns out that the car was still trying to control the fuel pump. With my fuel pump ECU bypass that I had done the car would prime the pump then turn it off. Once the car would try and start it would think it was priming and then turn off again. I ended up bypassing the fuel pump ECU all together and gave the pump 12v when ever the ignition is turned on. This will be something I need to address later on so that the Haltech has full control over the pump. Regardless the car now starts up and runs! I was able to run the car for 30-40 minutes idling at 2k-3k to get to temp and to seat the rings. Last weekend I did the first oil change to get the break in out out and gave the car fresh oil. One concern I had was it looked like the turbo elbow had fresh oil in it so I may not be out of the woods on the turbo. Its possible the seals did in fact get cooked.... FYI NAPA 7535 is a direct replacement for JZX90 for anyone needing a battery. regardless the car runs and here is a video for proof!

for what its worth spend the extra money on a helmet. Isn't your brain worth the extra $100?

amazing work has gone into this. I still remember when it was just BPU!

Honestly it makes the game much better but it depends on how you race. Im sure you could play with xbox controller but IMO that wouldn't be worth it with VR. I feel like for the best experience in VR you will need a wheel. Also Ive had the original Vive and occulus touch, If you want to do serious racing I feel like you should get vive pro because it makes it much easier to see braking points and what not much easier with less of the screen door.

Ive got a Vive pro and use it exclusively for Assetto corsa and other racing games.

this weekend turned out alot better than I was expecting but sadly the car still will not run but atleast it will start and idle for a second or two and die. Haltech display counters shows trigger system error count rising as I crank so that tells me there is an issue there I need to look into. Mainly I need to deal with a battery that dies after two tries to start the car which will be the first thing to deal with this week. Anyways parts arrived for the car: Haltech 4 Bar motorsports Map sensor Haltech 12 position rotary switch Haltech boost solenoid Tial QRJ BOV Odyssey Fab Downpipe Apexi Hybrid intercooler OEM Mark II corner marker Onto what was completed this weekend I finally received my replacement projector so I got my HID projector retrofit completed. This time around I went with a Mini H1 projector since it fits much better. I dunno what the output will be like but time will tell. I also painted the outside of the stock shrouds like I did to the first lights. To be honest I didn't really want to do this however some of the chrome peeled off when I tried to remove the sealer that fell on to it. Ill wait on putting the lens on this time that way I can properly align the projector and get both straight. After that was completed, I went back to the dash cluster and finished wiring everything up and mounting it. I had to figure out where to mount the button for the display that allowed you to scroll and change the way information was displayed. I had originally thought of putting it on the same panel the display was on but I felt that would be annoying to have to reach up to press so I put it on the left side of the wheel. Again since this display is the street display all turn signal, brake, high beam and really anything else is built into the display. I do need to take it out and customize the display a bit more and also adjust the fuel level gauge since I never calibrated it. Next since the downpipe arrived I could finally finish up the exhaust. I basically built this out of scraps I had laying around in the garage from past projects thankfully I had just enough to finish tacking it together. Sadly I did run out of argon so Ill have to complete welding it next weekend. Lastly I did get to mock up the intercooler. In order to mount it where I want to It looks like I may need to notch out the frame a bit but Ill play with it later when I have more time.

Thanks guys, While the shifter and handbrake are on the RIGHT side, they can be moved to the wrong side if needed. This is one of those things that is going to take the right person to buy it or really some one that wants to upgrade from cheaper hardware

As the title states I am selling my complete Fanatec racing sim setup. Ive had this for a while and honestly Ive been using it less and less and in reality id rather put the money towards the Jzx so its driving sooner than later. Fanatec setup includes Clubsport v2 base Clubsport Porsche 918 RSR steering wheel (real leather and exact replica licensed by Porsche) Clubsport v3 pedals Clubsport v1.5 Shifter with sequential mode Clubsport v1.5 Handbrake Custom wheel base, all stainless steel construction 1.5' tube, setup for left and right hand shifter. shifter height adjustable. Custom triple screen mount, all stainless again with fix mount middle and articulating arm left and right. built for 27" may fit bigger monitors. I just went VR though so thats why there is only one monitor. Price is $1250. This setup cost $1600 for just the fanatec stuff, then $300 for materials for the stand and mounts and of course the time welding it all up. Price seems high but for quality its worth it. For what its worth ive had logitech g25 through thrustmaster and if I had to do it again id get this all over. There is just something to be said about quiet equipment. The pedals even have a clutch engagement point that you can feel...

FB and IG here. If it wasnt for the active FB marketplace and groups for buying and selling Id have dropped it a long time ago.

So another weekend and some more work. Unfortunately I had planned to start the car last weekend. Sadly I failed to do that but I did try for what its worth. Big thing for me was getting the dash display sorted that way I can monitor from there while breaking in the engine. Since I have the IQ3 street dash I am planning to remove the entire stock cluster and just run the display but I did want a decent looking and something that looks OEM. I ended up going and grabbing some evergreen black polystyrene sheet and cut it to fit the stock cluster and mounted the dash to that. Since the plastic sheet wasn't super smooth and had some imperfections I decided to get some texture to it which looked perfect. I also was able to get the oil line finished so I could prime the oil system to get it ready to start. Now onto the annoying part. once the oil line was made, and I filled the cooler with oil I then put my coolant funnel in place and started filling the system with pure distilled water(didn't want to run coolant until I knew it was good). Got in 2.5 gallons and then started to see water dripping under the car. Initially I though it was just a water line missing a clamp but sadly it turned out to be seeping from the water pump. Its hard to admit but im going to do it anyway...I forgot to put the water pump gasket on when I put the water pump housings together. Unfortunately this means tearing down the entire front end of the motor, taking timing belt off and re sealing the water pump. Thankfully since Ive done this quite a few times and this is all new parts it only took me about an hour start to finish. Anyways, after that was complete, I disable the fuel pump and cranked the engine and verified oil pressure and made sure everything else was reading properly. I then tried to crank it on over which it did however it only wanted to start once and when it did it popped and died out. Looks like timing is off in the ECU so Ill have to play around with that but I ended up calling it quits for the night since I did see intcam1ang was reading uncalibrated and I couldn't find a way to calibrate it so I called it quits until I can talk with some one from haltech.

Brian, I was able to order it direct from Haltech before they went on backorder.

No worries, Im honestly not sure I know it seemed like what I had could not keep up. Its a 3 ton unit and the house is 2673 sqft. I was thinking for the furnace to honestly keep 80% efficient as my wife and I generally keep the house around 66 and our gas bill is normally 100-120 a month. Granted we haven't really had many super cold days but then again if I can get insurance to cover the furnace I may just go to the 95% depending on the cost difference. I was thinking on the AC maby a 16 or 17 SEER may be a good compromise? Ive got the HVAC company coming back out today to do measurements and give me pricing so I guess we shall see.

So once again I didn't really get as much done as I was hoping due to waiting for Fedex to deliver the aluminum intercooler piping but I did get to spend time doing piddly stuff. Ive grown frustrated waiting on parts to be delivered so I can start this thing so I decided to just mount the oil cooler in front of the radiator. Honestly I am a bit worried its going to block air flow but I put it on the side with the static pressure fans so it will help out. I ran out of -10an lines so I need to go grab more from Jegs along with another -10an straight fitting so I can finish the oil line for the oil cooler. I will technically be able to start this thing next week is my hope. So what I did get accomplished last weekend, Mount oil cooler make one oil cooler line make new radiator support brace (so I can do the oil cooler) figured out the upper hot side intercooler piping mounted battery mounted PWM fan relay mounted second fan relay mounted wideband and hooked up all the connections dug into the dash to begin figuring out cluster mounting traced dash connector wiring so I can plug all that into the digital dash harness powered up the car to test ECU power and fuel lines. To be honest I was worried that the fuel lines may leak since I flared the stock metal lines to -6an and the lines are not standard. Regardless its good and no fuel smell which makes me happy.

Thanks for the info! Turns out Carrier will warranty the heat exchanger which I think I am going to have them send me the parts but I am going to still just replace the furnace anyway with a new unit just due to age and well to do the repair it needs removed anyway. My plan will be to just replace the exchanger and then sell it cheap on craigslist to some one that needs it for their garage heating. While we are on the topic of replacing stuff, what are the thoughts on replacing the AC while I am getting the furnace replaced? My AC unit looks to have been replaced in 2015 with a Goodman unit which from what I understand is the cheapest of the cheap. IIRC its even a 13 SEER rating which IIRC is the bare minimum you could put in. system works fine with no issues other than making the electric bill high.

Looking to see what the insights are on furnace brands. Recently moved to a house a 5-6 months ago and I had the furnace inspected a few days ago and was told the heat exchanger has hair line cracks. As soon as the tech saw the Carrier unit he told me straight up that its a common problem and he will check it. Normally id get a second inspection however he had me look in to see the cracks so I know they are there. At this point I have two options, option one is that carrier increased the warranty to 20 years because this is a common problem with my unit so replace under warranty. There are two issues with this as the unit itself just turned 20 years its highly likely they will not honor the warranty, the good news is we caught it right before it was aged out and reported it however they were closed for the holiday so it wont get reported with them until after. Second issue with this option is when the basement was finished the contractor didn't leave enough room in front of the unit to pull the exchanger out. For us to replace the exhcanger we will need to disconnect the unit, move it back a few inches do the swap and then good to go. If I recall the unit also needs a new igniter as it is getting warn down. Current unit is an 80% efficient unit. Option two, Considering the unit itself is 20 years old and needs more than one part for repair, it may be more cost effective to replace the unit. Even more so considering to repair we have to basically remove the old one anyway. I havent seen any pricing figures yet however I am thinking this may be the best option as I can get a more efficient newer unit that I wont have to worry about. I do not however know anything about furnaces so the question is what do I look for? I know they have 95% and 98% efficient units now. Are these wort the upgrade? TL;DR Furnace needs new heat exchanger and the part could be under warranty but due to other constraints the labor charge may justify just getting a new unit.

So I wasnt able to complete as much as I had hoped to this weekend however I did at the very least get the fans mounted to the radiator and radiator/ fan mounted into the car. I also started to figure out the intercooler setup. Unfortunately I wasn't going to be able to run the piping on the cold side how I wanted but It looks like the original JZX90 intercooler piping I had will work so i'm going to plan on just using that for now. The rest of the piping should arrive this saturday so hopefully I can get the hot side about ready depending on when the intercooler shows up. Last real thing to figure out for the JZX100 radiator is the sensor in the bottom. My JZX90 sensor while it threads in I dont believe will seal. I may just plug this as my fans will triggered off the engine temp being reported to the ECU. I did however finally get my dash for the car. I ended up with the Haltech IQ3 Street as I am going to replace my entire cluster with this one thing. Since this is the street dash it has the hookups for turn signals, lights, fuel level and odometer so I plan to use all that. Sadly this means ill be cutting up my current cluster to mount it all but It should be well worth it in the end.

appreciate it, Thank fully the 1jz is sold already! not much updates to be had yet, Ill be running to the garage to do little things today but I did get notice my down pipe is complete and should be shipping today or monday which means my intercooler should be coming as well. Mines one of the ones on the left which is for RHD cars. With that said, I ordered a bunch of piping for intercooler piping and I also ordered my Haltech IQ3 dash yesterday. Other than that I went ahead and scheduled my tune with Dynosty on Febuary 26th so ive got a target date to get this all completed and ready. Plan today is probably going to be mounting the radiator fan securely to the radiator and then power up the car so I can program in the fans to the ECU and probably some other small stuff.