TurboRust

thanks guys!

8.31 I think

i only wish my fc cleaned up like that.....hmm maybe it'll atleast be faster

yessir...its got more in it.. Congrats

you have much to learn young jedi... i was mounting 30 series tires for cr folks in 2004 Cenergi if you still need these done pm me

96-01

I didnt see him say he needed 500 hp.

white dude in the second part...lol

yeah... CR stock

yeah cause my mach 1 didnt run faster than 95% of the people on this forum,...with stock internals.

Tinmans sb2 rx7 $18k

i sold mine for 2500+ stock mach 1 parts to mine back together

lol...all you need to do is miscalculate one of these late night fuel discussions and the motor will go boom... you can turn the boost back down/

harland sharp roller rockers will be here this week along with my new pistons. ended up going with forged probes that should be about 12.2:1...gonna do e85 with an 850 race carb

Went to greenville today to ohio crankshaft..forged. goodness http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=542&pictureid=4349

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=542&pictureid=4350 ??? Lemme know...256-4040

Na my cheapest set is about 500 so I didn't bother posting them

We had a very good time as well, sadly we couldn't stay for the finish, as our daughter had a rash that was only seeming to get worse with the heat. Big thanks to the sponsors, cr members, and Hadocy for making it happen.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/samuti/orly-43441.jpg

also it doesn't take near the beating it would during a drag race.. if you watch his shifter hand running down the straight he doesn't power shift, as there's no need to.

needs less $80 a piece junk ass performance tires

Tinman this winter(after roadrace season) if you're not in a hurry

clay there are a couple tsb's about noise for these vans.. first off the overflow bottle has a screen in it that get clogged drain fluid and clean it) and second the return hose running the ps cooler is too small and needs upsized one bigger(7/16" from 3/8" maybe..i forget)

brandon pm me if you pick out a wheel you like and i'll see what i can do on them... you can also use this link on our site to get a visual.. we have a pretty nice program where you can get the color exact and even raise/lower the vehicle. http://www.ntb.com/wheels.aspx

1. siphon as much fluid as possible 2. lock the wheels straight ahead 3. disconnect coupler at inter. shaft under dash 4. remove wheels 5. remove front evap canister 6. remove one hose from ps cooler and drain fluid 7. remove 2 bolts in ps cooler to crossmember 8. remove outer tie rod ends 9 remove leak detection pump to crossmember reinforcement bolts 10.remove lower control arm bushing bolts(rear) 11. remove crossmember bolts to subframe. lower the rear bushings, then the reinforcement 12.remove lines from steering gear 13. remove 3 bolts and nuts holding the steering gear to the frame 14. move rack down to access roll pin in steering shaft and remove 14a.TIP. there is an access plate right under the brake pedal to get to this. 15. separate coupler from rack 16. remove rack summarized instructions from mitchell...F* not being able to copy and paste from there. says 4.3 hrs.. take your time, and buy a case of beer.