Mensan

Curious as to why people think CR didn't continue to thrive over the years? Is it just a life cycle of a forum?

 

Obviously our generations aged and life happens but why did the next generation not step in to fill those shoes? Was it really due to social media? I don't see Facebook replacing all that CR had to offer at one point. Are the younger generations not into cars the same way?

 

Never really thought of it all until now.

Chatbox. Instead of people posting in the forums to keep things going, people posted daily in chatbox instead. My opinion.

 

A clean NB hasn't existed since about 1987.

My 2003 NB is for sale. 53k miles, garage kept.

Edit: My 2003 Mazdaspeed donor car with complete drivetrain is available as well for only slightly more. Yes, it is drop in and has the same wiring harness making the swap very easy. Donor car also comes with 6 speed.

Was hit by another driver. They were cited and their insurance has accepted blame. They have stated they will give me fair market value for the vehicle. I have asked to either be reimbursed for my custom/aftermarket items or to be allowed to remove them and keep them. The adjuster said I will only get paid if it adds value to the vehicle and if I remove anything the value of that item will be deducted from the value of the vehicle reducing my settlement. I was under the impression they are responsible for replacing everything I have been deprived of (aftermarket stereo, performance parts, etc). Is this true? Can anyone point me to ORC/OAC citing what they have to cover? Any suggestions on a lawyer if it gets that far?

 

Thanks

In your communication to him, cite the manufacturer, the model, and the size. Do the same thing for the tires. They have to make you whole, as if the accident never occurred. If you just state that you had rims on the vehicle, they need to replace your vehicle as if you had rims. If you are specific, you will be reimbursed for the exact rim you had.

If your a W2 employee who just makes a lot and is caught in that middle zone there are no breaks and tax rate can be near 39%

The highest tax bracket is 37%, and that only applies to income over ~$500k. Who are you saying pays 39% as a W2 employee? Even taking into account state/local taxes that's really high unless you're making serious money. And remember we're talking adjusted income.

Who the fuck pays 30-50% (actual) income tax? Was this written by a European? Also, the only way to proc the inheritance tax is if you leave your heirs millions. You probably *should* be taxed significantly to take the burden off of others.

Have a orange 8 foot fiberglass Werner ladder

Nib kitchen sink:

https://www.amazon.com/Elkay-ELUH231710-Lustertone-Undermount-Stainless/dp/B004PUCK5E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=eluh231710&qid=1631059315&sr=8-1

If you're willing to drop off that sink at FedEx I can give you my account number.

 

Out of curiosity, do Tesla's wear out at some point? Or do they rust out in a climate like ours? At what age/mileage do the batteries start to fail?

 

This addresses my questions, but seems too good to be true: https://www.motorbiscuit.com/how-many-miles-will-a-tesla-last/

I have had a few issues with mine, but all taken care of under warranty. If you buy used from Tesla (like I did) the car comes with a 50k mile bumper to bumper warranty. In my contract, I have an 8 year unlimited mile powertrain warranty as well, so if my batteries fail, they get replaced. No issues with the battery so far, EXCEPT during winter, it REALLY cuts into the range. The newer cars use a heat pump, which I've heard is much more efficient.

Read the forums for more info, the community likes to talk about their cars.

With an hour plus commute each way, the auto drive feature of the Tesla becomes appealing. My coworker who has the model 3 has commented a few times that since he got the Tesla he has noticed that he is not as fatigued when he gets to work in the morning and home in the evening.

This is 100% accurate. If I have to drive more than an hour, I don't want to drive anything else. The auto-drive feature is really that good. You don't notice it when you use it, you notice once you get used to it and have to drive something else.

no the volt replaced the suburban. you got it backwards.

That makes a lot more sense, I thought you were saying the Suburban cut the cost by half. I couldn't figure that one out.

I'm not saying your dad was wrong, but he was wrong. It was probably much closer to $200/year, at least on order of magnitude.

 

Volt usable battery = 14kWh

Range = 54mi

kWh/mile=14/54=0.259kWh/mi

Cost of electrics in NY=$0.199/kWh

Cost/mi=.0264kWh/mi*$0.199/kWh=$0.0516/mi

Miles for $200... $200/$0.052/mi=3876mi

3876mi/30days=129mi/day

129mi/day/54mi/charge=2.4 charges/day

or 33.5kWh

 

The Volt only has a 3.6kW charge in it, so it would have to be on the charger about 10 hours/day. And they he would have to drive it 129mi/day split in between 3 different drives. So, 50miles first thing in the morning, charge for 4 hours, drive another 30 miles at lunch, charge for another 2 hours, drive another 50 miles, charge another 4 hours (overnight).

 

Every Single Day. If he did that every day for years, good for him.

 

I'm not trying to give you or indirectly your dad too much grief. But people read about $200 electric bills from EV charging on the net take it as facts and will repeat it as part of why EVs are so terrible and will never work.

 

The wife had a Volt (2013? w/38mi range on EV) for 2+ years and with a 12 mile each way commute it was just about perfect. I don't think or electric bill went up enough to really notice, maybe $20/month give or take.

That car was replaced by a Suburban. A Suburban gets 17 mpg (combined use).

3876 miles per month costs $200 in NY

3876 at 17mpg is 228 gallons per month which costs $728.23/mo (at 3.194/gal)

The Suburban has been saving money (somehow).

I bought my Model S last June with 44k miles on it, and I've put about 50k on it in the last year. Hands down the best car I've ever owned. The math for charging is VERY easy for my car; it has a 100kWH battery, and a 300 mile range. We pay $.091/kWH, so to go from 0-300 miles is that x100, or $9.10. Figure out what size battery you're looking at, what the range is, and what you pay per kWH for electricity.

Picked up a MY Long Range about a year ago. Overall great car and I would recommend.

 

Couple of things to note:

• Customer Service is pretty Crappy. Good news is you really shouldn't have to deal with them much after delivery.
  
• Car was delivered with panel fitment issues, paint nibs, a stain on the headliner, and an issue with the cowl plastic. All were fixed by the Tesla dealer in Cincy. When fixing the cowl issue they actually dented the quarter panel from the inside and tried to deliver the car back to us this way. They also fixed that and provided a loaner.
  
• Ride is fairly harsh - We have the upgraded wheels which probably don't help.
  
• Aside from the issues above which are behind us, the car is fantastic.
  
• Honestly haven't noticed an increase in electric if it is more than $20/month I would be surprised (My last electric bill was $120) - 12,000 miles/yr
  
• 240v outlet is a must for charging. Will charge at 30mph, on 120 it is only 3mph
  
• May sound weird, but aside from the stupid fast acceleration, the regen is my favorite as you can drive the car with one pedal. Rarely have to use the brakes.
  
• Autopilot is nice, especially for highway driving.
  
• Whatever tires came on it are terrible in the snow.
  
• Never had an issue with Wifi
  

This is all accurate, but slightly different for me. Mine is the S (the S and X are similar), so I have the air suspension. The Y and the 3 have conventional suspension, which is firm, and a bit harsh. They are lower cost cars.

They buying experience leaves a lot to be desired. It's VERY frustrating. Expect to be left in the dark about key items.

For long drives, the autopilot is not just nice, but now (for me) irreplaceable. I have gone back to driving our van occasionnally and notice after a drive longer than one hour that I feel tired. This does NOT happen when driving on autopilot. A 10 hour drive feels like I haven't been driving. At all. Because I haven't.

I'd like to reiterate that the 240V charger is 100% necessary. I have the Tesla charger in the garage. Mine is the 3rd (I think?) gen, which connects to a 60A breaker. Whatever breaker you connect to will be continuous use, so you'll see 80% of it's value (in my case, 48A). 240V x 48A is 11.52kW, so it would take 8.68 hours to charge to 100%. Some previous versions could connect to 100A breakers (80A at continuous duty), 240x80 is 19.2kW, or 5.2 hours to fully charge from empty to 100%. If your electrical panel can support that much current, find an older charger. I wish we would have.

Any additional questions, feel free to ask.

I looked into towing with EVs for about 30 seconds, and the range dropped by like 30% towing 4k lbs which turned me off

What were you hoping or expecting to find?

I drive a 95 civic as a daily and I oddly can't bring myself to move on since it starts when I need it to help to get to debt free

I can appreciate this. I will also never, at any point in my foreseeable future, be debt free.

Any update on this?

 

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

He posted on Facebook either yesterday or today that there's been no news.

Where and to who are these being sold?

 

I'd guess city dwelling millennials, those who are upper-middle class, or those in lower-middle class who are stretching their budget looking for a status symbol.

New cars, yes. Anytime you saturate the new car market it makes for very affordable used cars in the following years. Take any new car being made and your statement still stands. The people who have a lower income will be able to buy a Model 3/Y very easily in the next few years. In addition, once the used market is looking for batteries en masse the prices of replacement aftermarket units will fall as well.

Though, Tesla warranty covers 8 years unlimited miles for powertrain, so it may be moot for a while.

Would you install your charger outside?

I missed this!

Yes. The Tesla wall charger is designed to be mounted outdoors. Any hotel with a Tesla wall charger (the same one I installed at my home) is mounted outside, in the elements. This includes the units I used in Iowa, Minnesota, and Wisconsin. No issues.

My guess is that is your draw because it is a smart charger that will draw based on availability. The wall charger will work on 15-100A circuits and supply power based on it's available draw. A Gen 3 is capable of outputting 48A. In order to put out 48A and draw 48A, you would need a power factor of 1 (perfect) and a lossless charger. Both of which do not exist. If you were to supply your system with a higher input, you could get a higher output.

Any circuit in a house that is continuous duty is only allowed to be rated at 80% of the entire circuit rating. This is an NEC requirement. For a 60A breaker that sees continuous duty, 48A is what it will draw.

https://www.ecmweb.com/basics/article/20898940/sizing-a-circuit-breaker

I have worked in the electrical industry in power distribution and generation since 1995. I have taught electrical theory at the college level to incoming linemen. Trust me when I say that a lot of what you are posting in this thread is incorrect.

Unless they use a window unit.

 

Plus #6 is on the low end for a 60a circuit, NM-B/UF-B is only rated at 55a. On mine I pulled three #6 THHN plus a #8 ground which is good for 75a.

It's 80% continuous duty (60A*0.8=48A). My charger pulls 48A max.

A level 2 charger requires 240v service. Most homes do not have this available. You will need to hire an electrician or know how to do the wiring. Yes your charger was $500. Now you need a 60A breaker - $50. Now you need wiring. Let's say you are within 100' of your panel. You need 100' of 4/3 Romex - $950. Your $500 charger is already $2000 and you do not have installation or any of the odds and ends you may need yet. Add in the fact that someone buying a $50k car is probably going to have a decent size home and the box may be further away adding to the cost. This is all if your home is able to handle an additional 60A draw on it's current service. Start trying to charge your car while you are cooking dinner and the wife is doing laundry and your current goes up quickly.

All houses have 240. If they didn't you couldn't use a stove/dryer/air conditioner.

The breaker was $20 and the 6/2 wire (You only need #6 for a 60A breaker, and only two conductor) was $100. I don't know who is quoting you these numbers, but definitely get a second opinion. There are multiple electricians in the bay area of California installing Tesla chargers for $250. You should be able to buy a charger and have it installed for $1k or less. I did mine myself.

It is a big drawback for those driving outside just their little area of life. Love the idea of performance, etc but spending 20 minutes and hoping the charger works to do what normally takes a few and has never let me down is a big factor. I don't have time nor patients to wait around at a rapid charger while I'm traveling.

 

Home charging is cool and all once retrofitted but even there for best results you're supposed to only charge to 80% and that limits things. Add in winter and losing another 20% due to cold and that takes a potential 310 mile range to about 185. Then losing range simple sitting outside in the cold. At least with gas if I make it to a destination with 32 miles to go, I know when I come out it still has 32 miles to go.

Some of this info is correct, but I've been using my Tesla for field service for the last year (~45k miles). I've driven it from Las Vegas back to Illinois, over to Virginia, up to Wisconsin, South Dakota, etc. The charging doesn't really get in the way since I'm usually stopping to eat or use the restroom after driving for several hours. The winter driving is fairly accurate but apparently the newer cars are using a heat pump instead of resistive heat which doesn't eat into range as much. Still, I can get to anywhere I need to go, even when it's cold.

My home charger works great and was easy to install. #6 wire to a 60A breaker. No big deal.

Edit:

Add $6k for a Level 2 charger.

My charger was $500. YMMV.

Sam Harris...advocates for jiu jitsu training for cops to help them cope better in violent situations where they dont always have to resort to deadly force...

I recently posted a video depicting just this.

Having taken BJJ myself, alongside police officers, I can say it's effective doing exactly what you describe. You can also very effectively kill someone in the exact way George Floyd died though, so YMMV.

ITT: People make arguments that POC have a more difficult time escaping poverty, and that POC are targeted by police (making them afraid for their lives when interacting with police).

Also ITT: White people telling stories of how they successfully escape poverty, or interact with police.

This is LITERALLY the argument your opponents are making. You have agreed with your opponents.