Tinman

haha yeah......... but if i see you at a quaker steak or whatever meet ill say whats up. or maybe ill just wait for tinman to be done and lay the smackdown on HIS ass.

Bring lots of money

j/k, I'll line up with you for some fun.

i asked the guy and he said no. He only wants to haul fast cars.

-Clark on Matts computer

http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Catalog/equipmentdatasheet.asp?p=39581#disclaimer

 

yet again i have enrolled in school, but my teacher is one of the best out there. thanks again matt you continue to prove yourself as a great welder and teacher.

More than happy to help. I'm very impressed how quickly you are picking up on both the aluminum and stainless steel. All that painting must have helped with your torch control :thumbup:

wait? now my picture works again? can anyone see the chart i posted? first it worked, then it didnt, now it does?

Sorry Max, not working.

and would sort of ruin the aerodynamic for autocross.

I wouldn't worry about aerodynamics at that speed.

So...if one were to say...convert the car to a manual, the gears wouldn't have to be swapped, would they? And if one wanted to, they could swap the gears?

Yes and yes. But if you do not change the rear ratio, your speedometer will be off. Also, it is much easier to swap the entire differential than just the gear set. If your car does not have a limited slip diff, look for an S4 GXL diff, they can usually be found for $50 or so.

Preferably not a live performance, a MP3 file would be tits.

Todd Snider Talkin' Seattle grunge rock blues

any more info on this? I'd like to keep the 5spd, so i wouldn't need the tranny.

 

What cars other than camaro/corvette had the ls1/lt1 in them?

 

 

 

Thanks. What do you recommend tinman? I'm tryign to figure out what bits i need to keep and what bits i can get rid of. Like i have the turbo II wiring harness, but i don't think i need all of it. Also what brackets and such that were attached to the engine.

 

Anyone need any extra 13b engine parts. Have everything from it except the engine.

The TII tranny and driveshaft are worth some money along with the engine of course. You won't need any engine brackets, it is easier to use the accessories from the new engine. You will need some of the wiring harness, don't cut anything yet!!! The TurboII engine harness is worth a little money if it is in good shape. It can be removed while still retaining the wires that you will need.

Spend plenty of time searching on V8RX7.com and don't piss off the rotary fans, they can be very helpful and they may be interested in some of the parts you will not need.

Edit, Here is a page that describes the wire splicing if swapping an LS1, it's still useful if going with something other than LS1

He said that it's a non-roller. He said that he will get me the casting # tomorrow night.

Casting number or year of production please.

mild steal flanges seem to warp and crack worse than even 304

Sorry, but I needed to correct this before anyone gets the wrong idea.

Mild steel is by far the best readily available material to make header flanges from. Cracking is not an issue with mild steel and potential to warp is much less than any of the stainless alloys.

Not sure if it still available...

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34936&highlight=powerglide

let it sing up around 8500-9000.

You will not find a set of 23 degree heads that will make any power in that range.

matt that cage was naked. what does it look like now??

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/100_1205s.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/100_1206s.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/100_1208s.jpg

Rolla did one hell of a job smoothing out some sections of the fire wall and crawling around the jungle gym to lay down some pretty paint. I'll need some shades to work on the engine now:cool:

I wish i could tear down the MR2 and do somthing like that. Looks good are you doing anything else in the weight reduction department whicle you have it torn down?

Removed the side impact bars from the doors, replaced the moonroof with a lexan panel, and a few other odds and ends that should bring the weight back to what it was without the cage.

Nice Matt. Is the cage 4130?

I went with D.O.M. mild steel .120" wall. I was planning on going with chromoly but it would have only saved ~30lbs. I decided it was not worth the added expense and labor.

That's the fastest running cage ever built, having been blessed by Jesus.

Well to be truthful, my son was too busy dieing for your sins, I took care of this project myself

The cage is done.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/100_1186s.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/100_1190s.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/100_1199s.jpg

Unfortunately it looks like the engine will go back in without any improvements.