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Tinman

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Posts posted by Tinman

  1. SOLD

     

    Wheels and tires are factory C5 Z06 sizes, 17x9.5+64mm offset with 265/40/17 front and 18x10.5+56mm offset with 295/35/18 rear.

     

    Wheels are perfect except for some nearly undetectable curb rash on one front wheel, see last picture.

     

    Tires are like new Bridgestone Potenza RE760s. Between 9/32" and 10/32" tread depth from inside to outside of all four.

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2255.jpg

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2256.jpg

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2257.jpg

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2259.jpg

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2261.jpg

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2262.jpg

     

    Asking $900

  2. On an LS, yes.

     

    Forward facing single turbo setup.

     

    I am in no way an expert on turbo systems so take the following with a 2 ton grain of salt. On a single turbo application the 180 degree configuration would only add unnecessary complication unless it is a twin scroll compressor and even at that, the compromises that would have to be made would most likely make it not worth the trouble. Your best bet would be an 8 into 1 system with equal length primaries. To do so on a front mount turbo would require primary lengths of at least 36". Only someone with way more forced induction knowledge could determine if equal length primaries that long would be more beneficial than an unequal length primary design with shorter primaries.

  3. Matt, everyone's saying what they think...

     

    What do YOU think? Do you like it, was it worth the effort?

     

    I'm quite happy with the results, most definitely worth the effort. I still plan to play around with different mid pipe designs, have four others in mind, and will either do the bypass mod on the mufflers or make my own. It's still a bit too quiet. The one thing that does bother me is the little bit of rasp just North of 2000rpm when going through the gears in normal driving conditions. But when the fun pedal is in the proper half of it's travel, all is bliss.

  4. giphy.gif

     

    Best compliment ever.

     

    LOL that thing sounds crazy. I love it. I love that it's got that uncorked Italian V8 rip, with the downward popping as the revs fall of the LS. So distinctive.

     

    Congratulations, Matt! I hope to hear and see it in person at Dyno Tune...

     

    Thanks! As long as i don't get stupid and let well enough alone, you shall.

  5. Also hope this is not a obvious answer but would can overlap effect the sound also and have it not pulse the same exiting the exhaust?

     

    Cam overlap would effect the sound just as it would in any exhaust. But it does not effect the pulses in the exhaust, it does allow the pulses of the exhaust to scavenge a larger intake charge. This is why I'm hoping to see an increase in mid range torque. The primaries length and even firing through the collectors should help in the scavenging. Unfortunately, the LS6 camshaft has a ridiculous lobe separation angle making for little overlap. At some point I would like to have a cam with similar lobe profiles to the LS6 cam but ground on a 112 degree lobe separation angle instead of the 117.5 of the LS6.

  6. Pipe organs in the most ornate churches have nothing on these headers.

     

    Are you going to do a "reveal party"? Have it on a lift so people can see the beauty of those pipes, then at a scheduled time fire up the car to treat guests with a cacophony of LS-derived exhaust notes plumbed through titanium tubes expertly and intricately formed from a master craftsman with talent blessed upon him from the gods?

     

    Lol. I don't know about a party but,

     

    Sounds like a great treat for dyno day

     

    I'm looking forward to hearing them under load on Brian's dyno and seeing how they fair power wise against off the shelf headers. I'm guessing and hoping for similar peak numbers and a slight increase in mid range torque.

  7. On with the install of what is done so I can complete the last section between the X and the over axle pipes.

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2198.jpg

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2203.jpg

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2204.jpg

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2205.jpg

     

    Hangers and O2 sensor wire routing.

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2199.jpg

     

    Passenger side underhood. As with most C5 headers, the dipstick did require some work. I ended up cutting the bolt tab off and making a new one and welding it to the opposite side of the dipstick tube.

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2217.jpg

     

    Driver side underhood.

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2208.jpg

     

    Everything is going as planned except for a pair of my fuck ups. I welded the passenger side collector retaining tab 1/8" too far back on the primary pipe. It will be fine for now but I'll move it next time the headers come off. Secondly, somehow I missed the mark when mating the X pipe to the collectors. It was done on the bench and ended up a degree or two off which is throwing the X pipe exit 3/16" closer to the driver side of the tunnel. Since it is the first of a few different mid pipe sections i want to try, I'll let it go and make it work.

     

    On the positive side, both headers slid in from the bottom with ease. I did have to loosen, rotate, and re tighten the driver side ground strap before sliding it in. And I did have to disconnect most of the starter wires and passenger side grounds and reinstall them in after the header was slid in but before it was bolted on. Otherwise a gravy job to get them in.

  8. Would a H pipe design help with the equal sound?

     

    Possibly and one of the things I would like to try.

     

    So even though I'm sure I have no fabrication skills, how mad would you be if these were copied? If this sounds like I think it will........I mean I know you said making more of these would be a slim chance in hell.

     

    I harbor no anger for anyone that wants to copy my design. I went into this for the sound, not to make money off of duplicates. You have my blessing and may this thread help you in your quest.

  9. stupid question. do you lose any of the sound you are after by adding the x-pipe?

     

    Not a stupid question at all. I plan to make a few different midpipe configurations to try, one being without an X. I'm expecting this X pipe to give it a higher pitch and smoother sound. The video in my first post of my chassis car's 180 degree headers does not have an X.

  10. Thanks again for all the kind words.

     

    Clay, as far as I'm concerned, these will never be duplicated, at least by me. After this, it's off to new challenges, hopefully with less headaches.

     

    Headers are now done. Finally done! Collector retaining tabs and hangers welded on and waiting for final install. Now onto the X-pipe. Pretty simple piece and much more fun to work with.

     

    Started with a little math and a couple of cuts through two U-bends. Trued up on the belt sander and tacked together.

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2179.jpg

     

    A few random pieces laying around the garage tacked to the welding bench to keep everything inline.

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2180.jpg

     

    And welding the main portion out. The two 1" long sections at the exit end are the 2 3/4" to 2 1/2" reducers. After the X the exhaust will be 2 1/2" to mate to the factory ti over axle pipes and mufflers.

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2181.jpg

  11. The "easy side" turned out to be an absolute train wreck.

     

    #5 was way too close to the plastic inspection cover that seals off the gap between the oil pan and bellhousing. So, a little piece of my favorite metal was whipped up to take it's place.

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2162.jpg

     

    First try and fail on the #3 primary.

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2163.jpg

     

    The new and final #3 tacked in and as it turned out, #5 pointed in the wrong direction.

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2164.jpg

     

    #5 on it's 38" long bendy route to the header flange.

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2165.jpg

     

    #5 finalized and tacked except for the last to joints.

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2170.jpg

     

    Primaries welded and tacked to the header flange for their last test fit.

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2173.jpg

     

    And the final product minus collector retaining tabs.

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/FullSizeRender.jpg

     

    http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/IMG_2177.jpg

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