Tinman

I was traded this truck for my old stepside by the stepside's previous owner that wanted it back.

Standard cab, long bed

2.9 V6

5 speed manual

33" tires

New master cylinder and booster

Newer engine, not sure when installed

169,xxx miles.

 

It has some minor issues, fuel and temp gauge aren't working, body is kinda rough, and It may need a new steering stabilizer.

 

I can email pics.

I was traded this truck for my old stepside by the stepside's previous owner that wanted it back.

Standard cab, long bed

2.9 V6

5 speed manual

33" tires

New master cylinder and booster

Newer engine, not sure when installed

169,xxx miles.

 

It has some minor issues, fuel and temp gauge aren't working, body is kinda rough, and It may need a new steering stabilizer.

 

I can email pics.

Originally posted by NurkVinny:

I was hoping you would reply b/c if I remember correctly, you built this engine. It's out of an 88 Formula that the guy in Johnstown owned smile.gif

 

After researching this online, I found it is common on the 383's. This engine has a 'StreetDamper' harmonic balancer and either a B&M or TCI flexplate.

 

Thanks guys.

Well I didn't build the motor, but I was involved in alot of the car's build up. I figured you were talking about Tom's formula.

 

What are you putting the 383 in?

Throw in some 20w50 for now.

Originally posted by SHIEF:

You can put it back on if you really want to.

You must keep it or buy a flexplate for a 400.

It is to properly balance the 400 crankshaft. They are made so you don't half to buy a new flexplate when stroking an internaly balanced sbc. You will also notice the harmonic balancer also has more weight on one side.

Miller makes excellent machines, and the one you are looking at will work great on anything from light gauge(auto body) to 3/16" plate. But if you want to save a little money, the Lincoln that is availible at Home Depot and Lowes's can be picked up for less than $400, plus $100 for the argon kit. It will do just as good of a job on the light gauge, but I believe it is just slightly less powerful.

Originally posted by Jackson:

An olf school tire. I'd look to something like the Nitto Drag Radial, BFG Drag Darial, or the new MT Drag radial

What he said, but if you really need the soft sidewall M/T E.T. streets worked better than Hoosier slicks for me.

Just curious on everyone's FACT BASED opinions on these two oils. I have never heard anything bad about either, but one of them has to be better, right?

I recommend M&M, Mike has been building and racing small block chevys for many years. He is also the most easy to work with machinists around.

 

M&M Head Service, (740)369-6442

Originally posted by RX7dood:

tinman can weld anything!

Anything but the crack of dawn smile.gif

I only have a little info for ya. The 904's bellhousing is part of the case casting so it's not removable. Also Mopar used different bell housing patterns for their small block, big block , and slant six. There is a small chance it could be the same as one of these but it's unlikely. You might want to look up J.W.transmissions, they have some odd adapters.

I can, out of stainless. Price, $1000. Yes I'm serious.

Originally posted by zeitgeist57:

Tinman, can you get me Cox Brothers Fabrication's number?

I'll try to remember to get it monday, hope that's not too late.

Yes you can, but it won't certify.

Be sure to check to condition of the front shock towers, the A-bodys tend to collect water and rust badly there.

 

If you want to get some power out of the 225 six, talk to Cox Brothers Performance Fabrication, they have been working with slant sixes for years and have one running 9s.

Originally posted by BC:

 

 

EDIT - If I decrease the back lash (move the ring gear closer to the pinion), wont that throw off the pinion depth? Lord I hate this shit! redface.gif

Pinion depth is referanced to the axle centerline, so moving the ring gear has no effect on on pinion depth. Also with ten thousand on the ring and pinion it might be too late for them to be corrected.

Originally posted by Badog ( no shift ):

Sweet! Thanks guys.

 

Tinman, you do alm. welding?

Yes I do, what do you need done?

M&M Head Service in Delaware (740)369-6442, ask for Mike.

On a side note, if you are planning to remove the windshield and rear glass, do it before you remove the body. If the body flexes a little during removal it won't hurt it but you risk cracking the glass.

If you don't know what it consists of, don't even think about it.

Originally posted by rl:

Mike at M&M in Delaware is the person to see. He will tell you if its worth fixing or not, and if it can be fixed he will do it right.

+1

The powershot solinoids should be good to 150-175hp

I have a heated/insulated garage with all the tools needed, if you don't mind the drive to Johnstown.

I'll be able to do it in our press brake monday, I was hoping to get it done friday when I posted. Thanks though I appriciate it.