Tinman

You might want to add NWS to that

Originally posted by Bill:

Wow so between the pinion shim and the spacer you probably have to put the pinion in, check it, and pull it out like 20 times.

I usually get it in 3 or 4 times, it's not a big hassle and well worth the extra time/effort.

Jeg's has alot in stock and can order just about anything. Avoid the Dynomax stuff, the Hooker pieces are of higher quality.

I'm getting a refund from both fed. and state. But this year in addition to local Johnstown tax, I also owe a 1% school tax. The worst part about is that if I had kids, I would pay less to the schools than I am paying now.

 

Bring on the FLAT TAX!!!!!!!!!!

I don't know if it helps you out or not, but I'm installing a 3800/T5 from a 98 camaro in one of my rx7s. Your welcome to come and check it out.

Originally posted by Shrek:

wear can i get this solid pinion spacer you speak of, and how reliable is it on the street?

Like Doug said, Jeg's has them. As far as reliability, well let's just say the only reason to use a crush sleeve is to make it quicker to assemble.

 

In your case, I would not disassemble the rear just to put one in, wait till you do a gear change, then upgrade.

I can weld most cast iron, what exactly do you need patched up?

Crush sleeves are a PITA and shouldn't be used in performance rears. Next time or if it's not to late, use a solid pinion spacer. A crush sleeve can actually crush more under hard launches and cause premature pinion bearing wear/failure.

Thinking about side exit exaust for the viper? Muscle motorsports has some used Cup exausts that incorperate the same transition you speak of.

As in wearing a hard hat, or yelling "faster" at those that do?

Originally posted by 93_ChargedCobra_342:

Tinman,

 

There is no doubt you know your chit. I am not really disagreing with what your saying BUT if your chassis is that far out of wack something needs strightened or replaced. If you do a car that is that wore out it wouldnt drive stright (if did when it was brought in) when your done.

You are very correct, I just turned away a friend's 69 camaro due to the unibody being tweaked over 3/8". What I was referring to when I said "former abuse of the chassis" is the amount of additional flex common in most unibodys, especially fox bodys that have seen dragstrip passes without reinforcement. This must be addressed during the subframe connector install, and can not be delt with properly on a drive on lift.

Thanks Anthony

 

hpfiend, I'm afraid you may have been misinformed about correct subframe connector installation. Welding them in on a drive on lift may seem like the best way to do it because they would go in as if the car was on the ground, but if you take into consideration the 10+ year old springs and bushings, tire pressure fluctuation, and former abuse of the chassis, it becomes clear that there is a better way. To be done properly requires strategic placement of four or more jackstands, a variety of different thicknesses of shim stock, and an accurate level.

 

There is always more than one way to do something, but if it's worht doing, it's worth doing right.

The A body mopars( dart, demon, duster, valiant, early barracuda) make great performance platforms, there is plenty of aftermarket and original go fast parts for these cars. When it comes to engine choice you are limited to running the same block type that came in the car unless you want to change out the K member or make custom motor mounts. The K members were block specific, so if your car came with a slant six and you want a 340, you must first swap out the original K member for a small block one.

 

My suggestion would be to run a smallblock 340 or 360(easier to find) if it originally came with a small block. Or if it came with a slant six, swap out the K member and go big block

 

Also, mopar transmissions are block specific too.

Thanks guys! http://tinypic.com/1hdv0n

I tend to work by myself but in some cases, such as tonight, I need a little help. Right now I'm trying to mock up the 3800v6/t5 combo in one of my rx7s, this requires the engine and tranny to go in and out a few times. Normally not a big deal but my cherry picker has a bum leg and never rolls in the intended direction, so an extra pair of hands would be well appriciated.

 

Give me a call if you have nothing better to do, if you don't have my number, post here, I'll be checking in now and again.

 

I'll buy the beer.

Diggin the Panasports, and props for such a clean car from the 80's!

Is that Oprah?

Ahh, I see. That motor, with your extras, in a 3000lb. vehicle is going to be quite the package.

You will need to know the intake runner size of your heads to get even a ballpark figure. Everything else sounds good.

8 valve or 16 valve? And how many miles?

Avoid the new digital MSDs, a friend of mine went through two in a 4 months/less than 300 miles. After the second one crapped out he resorted to a 6al.

He has not picked up a flow bench yet, he can direct you to someone that can though.

M&M Head Service, it's in Delaware. (740)369-6442

 

High quality work on everything from Briggs and Stratons to high hp race motors.

This place rocks!

 

Queen of Sheba, it's on E. Broad next to Holiday Lanes and across the steet from Applebee's. I had my doubts about Ethiopian food, funny I know, but I was pleasently surprised. The food was very unique, inexpensive, full of flavor, ans the service makes you feel like royalty.

I can't say enough about this place, just try it, expand your horizons.

Originally posted by Jackson:

driveshaft 1 down on frank road

A big +1