Ziggy1647545504

No, not true. Mercedes and BMW's require very specific weights be placed on each of the individual seats of the vehicle for a proper alignment. The problem is, a lot of the time, the only people that have access to that information are the dealers themselves. I think the only people that around here that do those high end German cars properly besides the dealers is Beeline down on the Southeast side.

Had a similar prob with my wife's Contour about a year or so ago. By the time it was all said and done, they ended up replacing the fan relay and fuse. Make sure you check the fuse under the hood. When mine blew, it broke down low so that it had to be removed to be able to determine that it was definately gone. Also, that particular fuse is bolted to the fuse block. You'll have to loosen the fuse block to get to the bottom and loosen the appropriate fuse.

Thanks! My uncle lives over there, and the last thing I need is a ticket.

For your car, I think I'd start with the molded carpets listed in J.C. Whitney. Look for all the Chevy stuff. Most people don't know GMC made an ElCamino.

+1. Had the same thing happen in my Honda a couple of years ago. Replaced the combo switch new OE for about 60 bucks. Fixed the problem.

Like these? http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.asp?ZTM=cadefibf&GHOME=www.corvettecentral.com&TITLE=Corvette_Central $999.00 That's a lot of money to make your Vette look funny. graemlins/wtf.gif

As to the electrical issues you described, have you guys checked the battery cables? If the Hot lead going from the battery down to the starter is damaged, it could be arcing out of the insulation, and thus causing the poor running condition you described.

No. 1999 was the first year for the ls1 motor in the trucks. That was also the first year for the body style like 02Silverado's (see sig). Your buddy's truck does however have the Vortec motor. That Vortec 350 is strong.

Sounds like you guys have issues. As for the lack of power and the glowing manifolds, when my Caddy did that it was due to a lean misfire. Are you absolutely positive you've got the distributor located properly? You could be like one tooth off. That could be part of it. Do you have a service manual? Go to the trouble shooting section, select a symptom one at a time and go through cross referencing possible causes. If you come up with several symptoms that all seem to indicate one or two things, start there. I don't know that much about the electronics on that truck, does it have an Idle Air Control module? I had to replace mine when I did headgaskets on my car a couple of weeks ago. Another thing that could be happening, that truck is OBD2, there should be I think 2 o2 sensors on the exhaust, one up stream of the cat and one down stream from the cat. Make sure that there aren't any exhaust leaks anywhere near those sensors. Sometimes an exhaust leak can cause the sensor to send incorrect information to the computer which can lean the A/F mixture out. Take this info for what it is worth, you need to know though, that I am not in any way a certified mechanic. Maybe someone else on the board has an idea? Good Luck!

You could check with Transwheel, too. That's who we use at the shop. They do really nice work, and their turn is usually about 3 days. They include re-mount and balance of the tire too. I'll look the number up tomorrow and send you a PM. I think they usually run about 125-175 depending on what needs to be done.

Pull the head unit. Somewhere, there is a serial #. Write the serial # down, and call a Honda parts dept. Explain what happened, give year make and model and serial # on head unit. They should be able to supply the 4 digit code in a manner of minutes. If they give you any shit, let me know all of the info. I've got a couple of contacts that have helped me out before.

92=Early for the body style graemlins/thumbsdown.gif . Ugly dash, non Vortec motor. 'Burbans have a tendency to rust along the rockers, bottoms of doors, bottoms of fenders, and around rear wheel wells. Especially if it has the chrome moldings. Check real close underneath the tail lamp pockets in the jamb for the tailgate. Happy hunting!

Damn man, that really sucks. Have you looked into what the cause was of your lack of brakes? Bummer bout the timing though...

I heard that it is for that very reason, that Ohio has ammmended the law as it applies to motorcycles. I heard that in some situations, ie: motorcycle first in line at a stoplight with no other vehicles nearby, that it would be admissable for the motorcycle to treat the light as he would a regular stop sign. Any truth to that?

GM tilt columns have 3 screws down inside the column. Over time those 3 screws will come loose, allowing the column to shift around. What you need to do, is take the steering wheel off, remove the lock plate, and pretty much everything inside the column, until you get down to those 3 screws. Then just tighten them up, and reassemble. You will need a steering wheel puller, and a lock plate puller though. Let me know if you need help. I've got the tools, it shouldn't take more than an hour.

The reason I say X-type, is that it is based on the European Mondeo chassis as is the Contique, and yes, the Cougar. Cept, the X is the only one of the bunch with all wheel drive.

Don't waste your time unless you already have the Jaguar X-type to donate the entire drivetrain. That is really going to be the simplest possible conversion for what you want. SELL and buy what you really want. You won't be happy until you do. Just my .02

USING HEAT TO REMOVE THE DENTS DOES WORK IN SOME INSTANCES, DEPENDING ON THE DENT, BUT IT IS HARDLY "PAINTLESS". WHAT ENDS UP HAPPENING IS YOU END UP WITH SCORCHED PAINT AND METAL, NO BIG DEAL IN ITSELF, BUT IF YOU'RE NOT PLANNING ON PAINTING, DON'T DO IT. HAIL CAN BE REAL TOUGH TO FIX THE CONVENTIONAL ROUTE. WE HAVE BEEN DOING A LOT OF SUBLET WORK TO DENT WIZARD HERE AT OUR SHOP, AND ONLY DOING CONVENTIONAL REPAIRS WHEN DENT WIZARD HAS NO ACCESS, OR THERE ARE SO MANY DENTS THAT IT IS MORE COST EFFECTIVE TO REPLACE THE PANEL. IS YOUR OBJECTIVE TO LEARN TO DO BODY WORK, OR TO LEARN TO PAINT? IF YOU WANT TO LEARN BODYWORK, ABSOLUTELY USE BLACK! IT WILL SHOW ABSOLUTELY EVERY FLAW IN YOUR BODY WORK. IF YOU WANT TO LEARN TO PAINT, START WITH A SILVER, OR A LIGHT METALLIC BLUE. THOSE COLORS HAVE ALMOST NO PIGMENT, AND YOU HAVE TO REALLY CONCENTRATE ON HOW YOU LAY OUT THE METAL FLAKE. AS FAR AS THE HAIL IN THE HOOD, ROUGHLY HOW MANY DENTS ARE THERE? HOW CLOSE TOGETHER ARE THEY, IF THEY ARE FEW AND FAR ENOUGH BETWEEN, FILLER WILL PROBABLY BE ALRIGHT. ALSO, JUST GRINDING, AND SOMETIMES SANDING WITH 80 GRIT PAPER WILL BRING THE DENT UP IF IT IS SHALLOW ENOUGH. MY SHOP HAS DONE OVER 250 HAIL CARS SINCE EASTER, A LOT OF IT HAS BEEN SUBLET TO DENT WIZARD, BUT I DO CONSIDER MYSELF SOMEWHAT OF AN AUTHORITY ON THE SUBJECT OF BODY AND PAINT REPAIR. PM ME WITH QUESTIONS...

Definately rotors. Alignment is almost never a factor when there is a shudder or a vibration. If it only shudders on braking, only from 30 and down, pull the rotors, and take them in to have them checked. They may not be able to surface them. Depends on how much material is left.

Where's 02Silverado at? He knows quite a bit about the truck LS1s.

I guess you've never had the instrument cluster out before? Have you tried pulling up/out on the reset button? Sometimes it won't come all the way out. DON'T SPRAY STUFF IN THERE! There are a lot of very small, light wires in there that could be damaged. If you take out the instrument cluster, check out out the electrical grid on the back. Any breaks in the plastic wiring could be the problem and you might be able to fixed by soldering. Let me know if you find anything out... Got a kind of sticky odo button on my truck.

My wife's contour started acting up like that too. It would only surge from 300 to about 1000 RPM, and ran out pretty good.I ran some fuel injector cleaner through a tank, and cleared the surging up pretty quick. Hope it's something simple, easy and cheap. Like that ever happens.

How many miles? Ever do a catalytic converter? My F-body did that once, turned out the catty was completely collapsed. Nothing a big screwdriver couldn't fix though! Broke it up REAL good!

If you swap the Lt Frt Tire and the Rt Frt Tire, and maintain the correct direction, the tread blocks that were on the inside of the Lt frt wheel will now be on the outside of the rt frt wheel and vise versa. If you were to swap tires, and keep the tread blocks that were on the outside of the Lt Frt wheel on the outside of the Rt Frt wheel, you would have the DIRECTIONAL tread blocks going backwards. Thats why it is such a PIA to rotate directional tires. They do have Directional, SIDE SPECIFIC, tires out there, but they tend to be pretty pricey. I think those are the ones you're thinking about.

Directional tires mounted the wrong way = VERY BAD! Not only will water not evacuate properly, but you could get noises that you've never heard bfore. Also, with the tread blocks going backwards, even dry handling can be unpredictable. Directional tires are made to go ONE DIRECTION! They don't really have outside vs. inside tread blocks, as that depends on which side of the vehicle they're on. You're probably fine in a pinch, but don't push it in the twisties!