ICEMAN1647545504

1974 block is the last year for the Mexican block and I know that is one of the strongest 2 bolt 302 blocks you can buy.

I like the one where they are crashing the fuck out of those cars and flying out of them better.

The girdle is there to keep the parts together so you don't mess up the heads/intake, if/when the block splits. Does it help the strength of the block? Maybe a little, but there are plenty of girdled blocks that have split. I think if he keeps it at 450-500 hp under 6000 RPM he should be fine. But yet again it is only a 2 bolt block. IF he wants to take the risk. I would do a stock 302, refresh it a little bit, good set of heads, cam, intake, carb, spray and call it a day, and have some fun while you are building a 4 bolt block or a 351.

Here is a brand new 331 stoker, never fired, forged everything, girdle, windage tray, cam, timing chain, ready for boost or nitrous. You can probably get it for less than $2000. http://www.stangbangerz.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75161 Here is a set of AFR 185's you can probably have for less than $1000. http://www.stangbangerz.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75326 OR, just get a stock 302 and boost or spray the fuck out of it. You can put a set of nice heads and a nice cam on a stock 302, intake, carb and a 150-200 shot and be at about 450 RWHP for less than $2000.

If the car has pony wheels, than just get some good tires for it. Some MT drag radials will do. You can also pick up a set of weld draglites big and skinnies if you plan to drag race it. Or you can get 17 inch wheels and put some 275 drag radials on them. Many options depending on what you want to do with the car.

Those shortblocks are only good for about 420-450 at the wheels safely. With some PI heads and a built shortblock you can get 550-600 easy with that kit. I wouldn't worry about building the stock shortblock with PI heads. Just drive it as it is and have fun with it if you get it. It almost at it's limit anyhow.

It's not a big deal. You can drive it for thousands of miles just like it is.

Not a bad car for the price. It looks like a nice driver with a little kick to it.

I see the maafaka still got two legs though.

It's not all in the HP numbers. Weight, gearing, shifting, matter also in roll racing.

The Nook is better in my opinion. The Nook color has a glare when reading it in the sun. The regular Nook is cheaper and better in my opinion.

Aluminum heads. Trick Flow, Edelbrock, even worked up SVO GT40X's will work. I don't know much about AFR's. Some think that AFR's are the best out there, but I just don’t know anything about them. AFR's tend to get expensive. 331 or a 347 stroker will work. Stay at about 9:1, 9.5:1 compression and you should be fine. If you want a simple "of the shelf cam", than an E303 or an F303 will work for you. Also a Trick Flow stage 1 (similar to an E303) or an Anderson B-41 cam will work for your spray. All those cams are very streetable. Comp cams offers a few cams as well. Or you can go with a custom Ed Curtis cam. You can go bigger/better on the cam if you like. 1.6 or 1.7 rockers (depending on the lift of the cam, I would do 1.6) will work. I would try to stay EFI (if you want to turbo later). That should give you at least 350-360 RWHP on motor. Spray 100-150 and you should reach your goal.

No buddy. You dont understand. No one said street racing is safer. So dont try to compare to street racing. If you don't think they prep the concrete you are stupid. And you said "who cares if he hits the concrete barrier"? Now I know that people like you put this contest together. What do you think is going to happen when someone hits that concrete at 120+. I'm sure they will care than. There is a better way to race at the track and simulate "street" conditions. They do something similar in New Jersey and they start at the 330. That is way safer.

Did you see that big ass concrete lane divider (starting line with the tree) that he almost smacked???

This is 100% true. I work for a bank too and modular homes are compared the SAME as stick built homes with the same interest rates. This is a also 100% true. This applies to manufactured homes not modulars. It is not the same. Read above quote.

:fuckyeah: LOL.

I didnt see the follow up post in that thread... I sawee..

King of the concrete = Racing from finish line towards the starting line to simulate "street" conditions.

Modular homes are as easy to finance as regular stick built houses. Manufactured homes aka doublewides are a little harder to finance through some lenders.

Is this that white RX7 with the 302 swap???

I'm not gonna say it.

There is modular and manufactured homes. Modular homes can be built by your own specs. They are almost like regular stick built homes. Manufactured homes are doublewides with a steal beam undercariage. Don't mix up those two. In financing, modular homes are financed just like stick built homes, whereas manufactured homes are a little harder to finance.

Apparently not that good at drifting.

Show me the carfax...

I saw this a couple of years ago.