Total Sign

You lose 4-7 points per month. Even with sta-bil. On a steel tank keep it full, aluminum or plastic it doesn't matter, either way, drain and fill with fresh gas come ride time.

Sam, do you still have the "10 things I learned from pornos" saved? Cant find it.

Cool. Thanks.

Right. But drive there with no tag? Kinda asking to get pulled over. Show the cops the bill of sale?

Will check ace. No need for it to be stupidly strong.

No. On boat, for bilge blower, getting rid of the shitty looking coil plastic hose. Want to have it in solid pipe. May just go with metal, as I have the powdercoat hard on..... Silverware isnt even safe.

Home depot and lowes do not have it. Will try plumbing supply. Just needs to be able to hold a psi or two of air.

Safe Auto, General, Titan, those cover SR22, no idea on how they are on claims.

3" diameter and 1" diameter. THIN wall. Any ideas?

Drive without a tag to weigh station? Just show the bill of sale if I get pulled over?

Don't have prev registration.

What all do they need, who do I see first?? Have the trailer and bill of sale. Need a tag. Thanks

PM Sent. Subs are still for sale, no dibs bullshit on anything.

2 Alpine 6.5" two way Type-S 2 Alpine 6x9" three way Type-S $80 for all 4 (half of retail) One of the 6.5's neg connecter broken off, hanging by the wire, can be resolderd on, all 4 still work and sound great. 2 Kove Audio Hart Attack 10" subs, Pulse X-HP10 200watts RMS each, 4 Ohm single voice coil Both new in box, one opened up and hooked up once, the other has never been out of the box. $100 for both 10" subs box 37" wide, 13" tall, and 15" deep (12" deep on top). Center divider grey carpeting $30 Will meet up on north end of Columbus.

Did he hand you your paycheck then?

Fb has a 24 skater that runs like a bat out of hell from 50-90. Those old allisons are a handful, 2 people is too many. Not very forgiving. Checking the site, Steve Gates is finally getting some press! http://www.screamandfly.com/home/evaluations/alisyn_progear21/1.htm

Can't remember what programs I used in the past, think I used TMPGENC, but can't get it to load from one file, need to have sound and video seperate?

Nordskog or Autometer

Where was that at? Wait until you can buy the ProCharger kit for them..... I rode one, holy shit. 0-60 in around 2.5 sec. I backed off at 80.

Somewhat correct. The baddest thing you can stick on the back, IMO is a Mercury #6. Designed by Carl Keikhaefer, rated to handle 1000+ hp/ 1000+ TQ. Many people are running more power through one, the RIO ROSES Fountain (V bottom kilo record holder at over 170mph) had twin Sterlings putting out over 2000 ft/lb. The standard bravo will handle around 700, if you baby it. The Xr is a beefed up Bravo. Strait cut gears, thicker upper case, a lot harder to break. There is a difference you can hear between a standard Bravo and XR when running down the lake. A loud buzzing sound. The Bravo 3 also uses counter rotating props. No one marinizes any ford engine. PCM used to use the 351, for Nautique, but right now PCM has 2 350's (one is 330hp, 430 tq) and a 6 liter (375hp, 492 tq). On speed, no it is not RPM. You can change the props pitch. Pitch is theoretically how far it would move the boat forward with 0% slip, in one revolution. Gear ratios in the upper unit of the drive can be changed (Bravo one can be 1.36, 1.50, 1.65). The smaller the number, the more power it takes to spin, so a smaller prop will have to be used. The higher numbers accelerate better, but must have a bigger prop. You control the RPMs by putting a prop on with more pitch. Most marine engines are built to run 5000-5200 max RPM. Polishing weakens the blades, meaning more slip. Fun fact, the standard Bravo 1 retails for a little under 9k. The XR is about 13,500, and the Number 6 (which is not a shiftable drive like Bravo's, and price does not include the 15k transmission) I cant remember retail cost, but my dealer cost is over 35k.

ricochet rides the short bus every morning

He probably has a V6.

If that does 120 I will be very impressed.

Ok, so the 2wd would reqire the F Body accessoies, original oil pan, etc. What wont work with the new computer?

Trading things around I ended up with a new LT1. Don't have the computer, but do have the wiring harness. The newer Blazers with 4wd and blown 4.3's can be found for next to nothing. Has anyone seen any how to's online? I did a search, can't find anything on the newer trucks, all pre 1994 swaps. Looking for; which exhaust manifolds or headers to use where to find a reasonably priced computer will it clear the transfer case (have never looked under one) does the 4.3 computer control things that one from say an LT1 firebird wont? Such as gauges?