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Chadz89GTA

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Posts posted by Chadz89GTA

  1. There are instructions that tell you how to link up the remote fob with the car. I've done it on my wife's old '95 but not anything newer. It's not that bad.

     

    If its the newer style it has to be done with someone that can get into the PCM, since doing the doorlock thing doesn't put them into program mode anymore :p

  2. Don't have a fuel pressure gauge, so making an appt at the stealership. Hope it's not the fuel pump since I just got the car and only put two tanks of gas through it :( Doesn't make sense tho since once it's running it runs great, but every once in awhile it won't start and defaults to cranking itself excessively.
  3. Car is an 06 Malibu Maxx 3.5L that after driving it for 10mins or more has trouble restarting, it acts like it wants to start but just cranks and cranks and cranks. I've checked all the wiring under the hood but havent pulled any of the plastic off to start going through the tb/filters etc. Anything I should be on the lookout for?

     

    Thanks,

    Chad

  4. This is not the actual dash pad. This is a cover that glues to your existing dash pad. I'm looking for the actually dash pad.

     

    Going to be tough to find, as are all the interior parts for these. Check the stealership to see if they can get you one, picked one up for my 98 for about 250 since the sun ruined the original one :( Also try LS1tech and thirdgen.org, people frequent those and would be a good place to start checkin.

  5. Get.Off.My.Nuts.

     

    Stop upping your post count with bs posts. PM's are there for a reason fucktard.

     

    As for the OP, what kind of paint are you spraying etc? My father runs the paint store in our local Napa store if you know what your spraying etc. I can get some details if the other gentlemen doesn't post before I do :)

  6. Got any info on your build?

     

    Yea 99 5.3L stock everything and spray spray spray, for cheap power add Z06 cam and more spray? Rebuild kits are stupid expensive for these motors, and after all the hassle if you only rebuild it its still an aluminum LS1. I went cheap got a deal on a 5.3L for about 350 out the door and have been beating the shit out of it since.

  7. I have a Server in the basement of my house that's been DLing torrents for the past 2 months, *amazed comcast has been stable that long* and have not had ONE issue with it. When I log on to game or do thigns i remote connect turn the speeds down and go about my business and turn them back up. Only had one instance where I thought my router shit the bed but apparently the torrent I was downloading ran out of seeders that I checked with the log to find. Still going strong 2 months 2 days 4 hours and 10 mins of straight connectivity.

     

    Edit: DD-WRT v24-sp2 (07/28/10) is the exact build. Straight off the wiki that was for the E3000, and right dowm the How-To flash list. And to be honest after having flashed 4 WRT54G's and a few WRT54GL/GS's the E3000 was the easist to flash with nothing to kill and going straight from stock firmware to DD-WRT in a matter of 6 minutes.

     

    Edit #2: DD-WRT v24-sp2 (07/28/10) std-usb-ftp - build 14853M NEWD-2 K2.6 Eko is the exact firmware

  8. This is a FANTASTIC router, its the one I use personally, and can attest to its performance. It is one of the best on the market, and highly recommend it if you can spring the cash. However...

     

     

     

    Don't use DD-WRT on a E3000. It will seem to run okay, but had lots of connection hangs when I had it installed. The stock firmware on the E3000 works much better.

     

    How do you figure? I've been using the E3000 with DD-WRT for about 3 months now, it only acts crazy if you don't do a full 30/30/30. But then again if you aren't doing a full 30/30/30 or even know what that is you probably shouldn't be using DD-WRT.

     

    I vote the E3000 with DD-WRT done properly, very easy to get what you want done, done. But also secure enough to keep the peckerwoods out :)

     

    Also I've been running it for about 2 months now without a reboot so when you actually install the firmware properly, it will function properly.

  9. Have you ever had experience with drilled/slotted rotors? I'm not arguing, but I always see you saying they're shit.

     

    Mine are 5 years old, and have no cracks, and are not warped, on my heavy ass truck, with lots of hard, hard miles. My brakes never fade, ever, but did bad after a good slam on stock brakes. Mine were not cheap by any means, but I have had 0 problems with them.

     

    Drilled and slotted rotors came on my Camaro whe I bought it. LOTS of heavy braking and rough driving. Very warped and cracks starting to form in the drilled parts. Replaced with OEM stuff and have over 12k on them of HEAVY HARD driving and no warp or brake shimmy to speak of.

  10. The heads are the wrong bolt pattern. 86-95 GM cast iron heads have a 72 deg cant on the four center intake bolts. You can grind down the intake and reangle the holes to match the early style head pattern though. But you could run into sealing problems.

     

    I've always just drilled matched it, never had a problem and did it to several intakes :p Old cheap intakes on an L98 or the 305 truck motors I use to get all day.

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