2highpsi

I *think* what he was trying to say is they are high def compatible. If that's the case then yes... High def can be delivered through component cables. I also think I had a spare one with HDMI... But again I'll check.

I'll check for sure and snap pics of what all I have.

Just the ones with RGB/Y then RW audio I might have an extra xbox hdmi. I'll check tonight.

Xbox 360. No HD or controller. Just the unit and cables. Works fine. $80 obo http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii37/jordancampbell2008/DSC_0462.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii37/jordancampbell2008/DSC_0461.jpg

Welcome to ColumbusResponsibleSpenders.com Our money saving tips and life lessons are just like The Jelly of the month club.... A gift that keeps on giving. Nice ride and good intro. Thanks for serving.

People seem to be split on the injectors. I may upgrade to be safe. I'm sure I could sell these and recoup some so that will help. I've also read 3.73s and a turbo sucks because it will hit the rev limiter before that traps, so i may change those. Being that I want to drive it on the street I might get rid of the full spool too. I've started searching mustang forums and trying to learn a bit, and quite honestly I'm a little nervous about splitting the block now. What causes that? Is it too much power on an unbalanced motor, detonation, or what?

I'm not even arguing the dyno thing anymore. 550whp let's just use that to make you happy

Pretty sure I'm going with an on3 kit I'm down to this I think What turbo should i get? From what I've read it looks like I'll need about 12lbs of boost to be where I want. Are these injectors enough? And who should I have tune it?

I've usually found cars tend to trap based on power, and ET based on power, suspension/tire, and driver. Example I know a guy with a 130 mph car that runs 11s. When a good driver hops in it still traps 130, but ET is in the 10s. I usually hate dyno numbers because so many of them read different. They are a tuning tool period. I know you can't go fast without spending money. Replace cheap with "least expensive" I guess. I was just looking for a list of what i need to do and change without getting ridiculous. Chad suggested I replace the meter and that's the kind of suggestions I was looking for. The only reason I mentioned cheapest was because building the motor different might net more power, but I'm not looking to throw that kind of money into it.

I'm not big on HP #s. I am looking to trap 130 on pump gas. Shoot me a pm of what the least expensive route I could get there with one of your kits. I agree, your kit would be better than spray. I believe the cam Setup is better matched for boost anyways. Good catch. I'll make sure. I know he forgot to list some of the mods.

I have built quite a few cars. Some V8, some turbo, but not a turbo V8. I bought this car from a friend of mine just because I couldn't pass the deal up. It is a built 93 GT Mustang. He is taking off the supercharger because I wanted to turbo it anyways. http://i341.photobucket.com/albums/o367/stoneman2006/mustang11k003.jpg Here are the major mods: (copy and paste from the sale info he gave me) http://i341.photobucket.com/albums/o367/stoneman2006/mustang11k013.jpg Motor Block: Fully Machined and Prepped Ford Racing Sportsmen with main support grdle Crankshaft: Production 302 Stroke: 3.000" Connecting Rods: Eagle I-Beam 5.090 Pistons: Probe Forged Replacement Timing Chain: Ford Motorsport Double Roller Camshaft: Ford Anderson B-41 Lifters: Ford Motorsport Hydraulic Roller Cylinder Heads: Edelbrock Performer Rocker Arms: Scorpion 1.6 Roller Intake: Edelbrock Performer 5.0 Throttle Body :BBK 75mm Mass Air Meter:C and L housing With Pro M Sensor Oil Pump: Melling High Volume Oil Pan: Canton 7qt deep sump pan Cooling: Proform Electric water pump, Griffin 3 core radiator with 3000cfm perma cool fan. Fuel System: Ford Racing 42lb Injectors with BBK high flow Rails, Aeromotive Adj. Fpr, T-Rex in-line fuel pump with Walbro 255 in-tank. Jegs rail mount fuel pressure gauge. Exhaust: BBK ceramic coated headers equal length, BBK off-road H pipe, Mac 2 chamber mufflers with turn downs. Tansmission Trans: Tremec TKO with Pro-50 short shifter Clutch: Center Force Dual Friction Driveshaft: FRPP Aluminum Rearend: FRPP 3.73 with Strange Full spool and 33 spline axles, C-clip eliminators. Summit Aluminum Diff Cover Electronics Engine Management: Stock Computer with Diablo Sport Tuner, Tuned By Brian Turner Ignition: Msd 6AL with boost retard, Msd Super Conductor Wires, Msd Blaster Coil, Msd Pro Billet Distributor, NGK Plugs Gapped @ .034 One heat range colder. Auto Meter SportComp Boost and Oil pressure gauges, Shift light. Suspension and Chassis Front Springs: Eibach Pro Shocks: Edelbrock Pro-Series Steering: Flaming River manual rack and shaft Assembly Wheels: Center Line Convo Pros Brakes: Power-Stop Rotors with Thermo quiet Pads Rear Springs: Eibach Pro Shocks: Edelbrock Pro-Series Air Bag: Air Lift 1000 Airbag Upper control Arms: HPM Mega Bite JR. with Welded Wild Rides Upper Battle Boxes Lower control Arms: HPM Mega Bite JR. Roll Bar: 8 point cage with M bar and X Brace all welded to frame and body, welded and bolted Subframe connectors. Wheels: Center line Convo Pro Brakes: Stock Drums with Thermo quite Shoes SOOOOO.... My question is basically: What do I need to change, and what is the most cost effective way to do this. I am not looking to dump a ton into the car. I might contact on3performance about a kit, but if there is a cheaper way to do it I am all ears. Thanks in advance

What. The. Fuck. I can only hope that's not real...

It was okay... Not as good as I expected. I was hoping for something similar to Lost season 1, and to me it was more like Lost season 4. Rather than leaving you with one central question, it leaves you with a lot. No continuity, and just feels like it's trying too hard to be interesting.

Truth RIP common sense.... You will be missed. http://tathamgroup.files.wordpress.com/2008/07/common_20sense.jpg

You go shooting in my back yard and don't call....

They are getting ready for "The Event"......

Your knock is in the tune (or rather the lack there of) Smaller pulley. Real tune on decent gas (sheetz 93 is the most knock resistant I've found probably due to high ethanol content) No knock, mid 13s, and a triple digit trap

That's unreal. Some final destination shit. I mean, what are the odds.

If only I could get a golden buckeye card..... Those perks, along with the life you describe, would complete me.

Why do Audis keep becoming more and more enticing to me.....

1badnova - I wasn't trying to come off the way it did. Just trying to give some insight. The fact that I was stuck in an airport when I posted probably didn't help the way I articulated my point. I apologize. Also regarding the "all new cars would win" above - I agree, and that's why the shows I have helped with are always broke down between cars, trucks, year ranges, and finally those are split into stock and modified classes.

$1500

You said yourself your interior wasn't done..... I've helped put on quite a few shows and you have no idea how much a pain in the ass it is. These "rants" always happen. (btw I had nothing to do with this one) What was wrong with the PT as far as condition or cleanliness? Don't get me wrong, I hate when shit like that wins too.... But when the guys with nice cars don't clean/finish their shit, it happens. To make shows NOT a popularity contest, and not biased on PERSONAL taste the judges have to have something measurable. It usually boils down to cleanliness and condition then broke down by engine, interior, exterior or wheels. More than likely they hated to give a win to a PT, but looking at it through points they had to. Get your car finished and clean as a pin before being upset about that kind of situation.

Taking trades?

Not sure if it's still good, but hope this helps: http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?sduid=0&t=2219510