Rice Eater

If it got that hot you need to repack the bearings and you need to drain and refill the brake line too. Once the fluid boils it will never stop you effectively again.

Isn't that why they say chocolate can kill a dog..caffiene?

Who's black SS did I pass on georgesville at about 8:15, turned onto Clime?

Desperado has a hold on this, and it made me look at your age, it jibes. Pro street was all about a car that looked like a pro stock car in every way but "could be" driven on the street. They did not have slicks, they were not meant to hit the 1/4 mile, they were meant to make you ooh and ahh and drool, and dream and they accomplished that. Some people bought them, some people had the skills to build them. Dobberton just got talked about in one of the mags recently..that j2000 was over the top when he built it. It cost him his marriage, he even sold his daily driver and rented a truck to get it to the Nats. HE built it, he didn't pay someone to build it. Alot of you guys are building fast imports now, back in the 80's it was pro street. You guys dream of twin turbos and drag radials and back then it was 6-71 roots blowers and 33x19.5-15 Mickey Thompson Sportsmans. Oh and twin chrome fram fuel filters hanging just below the back bumper..just above the wheelie bars! Yeah I don't mind showin' my age.

Last I heard they will not track temp tags. For the camera, go to Harbor Freight on W Broad and they have color or black and white cameras with night vision for $20-$30. I have the b&w and it works pretty good, it's better closer up but for the money it's good. Has RCA's to hook to your vcr. And if they are getting into your pool, they have an underwater model good to like 60' with a 5" moniter for $40 I think.

I don't have any use for your intake, however I just wanted to ask if that was you I saw at Jegs on w. Broad this morning around 11.30? If so, nice car. Low key and fast is cool, I guess you just have to keep the window rolled down to prevent the dead give away huh? Is it turbocharged or supercharged?

NApa, Advance and Autozone just about any autoparts store should have them for your Monte. Tray getting the top ones for a 3rd gen f-body.

Depends on how hot you get it.and for how long. The seals are what you have to worry about.

The VW axle nuts and flywheel gland nuts that these are for have a torque spec of 250 ft lbs! Then factor in rust. Another thing to try is this..heat the nut up as hot as possible, even if you only have a propane torch, then immediately spray oil, prferrably motor oil from an oil can where the nut meets the stub threads. The heat will pull the oil into the threads and make it easier to loosen..in brazing this is called capillary action.

If they did it without the lose your ride part maybe the sandbagging would stop. Like the guy with the white Camaro that whispers to his buddy that he didn't even use the second stage. They need to run all out and I'd like to see some clocks, even if they don't use them for the racers. just to see at home what they're running.

Back in the day we used to sell a little item called a catalytic converter test pipe. On the box it said this(caps intended) "TO verify the need to REPALCE CATALYTIC CONVERTERS" The verify stuff was in very small letters. That led to them being outlawed. What you can do is have them pipe it for a high flow aftermarket cat which is like a foot long and about $50 for the Dynomax ones. Then when you go home you take it off and put a straight pipe on. But you didn't hear that from me.

What size is the hub nut? VW's have that issue on them(air cooled vw's) and they have a cool tool that is 36mm hex or 46mm hex that goes on the nut and has a 1/2" square hole for a breaker bar and a shoulder on either side to whack with a hammer. They cost $13. http://www.800luvbugg.com/shop?frame=1.4681 Also International Parts store should have them. And Larrys Offroad in Dayton

Dumb question, but did you bleed the master and slave? Also, if it's like the f-body system they have a ball stud that the clutch bearing lever pivots on and it is adjustable.

I wish someone would do that in my neighborhood! However on a serious note..I saw on a tv program or read somewhere that unless you have WRITTEN permission for things like that that it could be illegal if it is inferring that you are of a law enforcement agency. It may have been in the ebay sellers rules, because they prohibit selling badges, hats, shirts, uniforms, jackets, ID's and more even if you state that they are reproductions or for agencies that no longer exist. That being said..I applaud your friend, illegals need to be put on a cattle train like Hitler used for the Jewish people and taken back to their country as soon as they are caught. There is a process to follow to become a citizen and it needs to be followed. We have too many people unemployed because these people will work under the table for $5/hour and no taxes are witheld.

Lower drag on the Pontiac probably. If I remember right, when the 3rd gen f-bodies came out the Firebird with the flat hood had the lowest cd of all production cars. Add to that the headlights being flush when down, atleast in the 3rd gens. The last of the 4th gens should have been about the same.

Yeah Hot Rod said his last job was working behind the scenes on Days of Our Lives or some such soap opera. He's just a guy that got lucky on someone elses idea. The guy at the finish line is his brother and the announcer is his cousin.

I'm running 10 deg initial and 36 total. 11.1:1 Dart Iron eagle heads. This is my daily driver. I run 89 octane in it except at the track. The 12 sec times were done on Kroger(Marathon I think) 93 octane with no additives. I see absolutely no spark knock and no sign of detonation whatsoever. Referencing the chart they posted in Hot Rod, my 12.50@110 should be 12 flat once I get the traction and chassis bugs worked out of the car. The best 60' I've gotten out of it is 1.853 in Nittos. I've picked up a set of Hoosier slicks to try this year.

Two things..I've read that oxygen(air) affects the octane rating of gas, and that if you are going to store it you should fill the container as full as possible with little or no air in the container. Anyone know how true this is? Second, I run mid 12's n/a on 93 pump gas..iron heads, carb, 11:1 sbc. Can anyone here relate before and after performance gains they had with a similar "old school" no computer setup? Wondering if I would be wasting my time, if I could see a couple tenths it would probably be worth the trouble and the cost.

I have had good luck at Discount tire on Hilliard-Rome by Wal-Mart. They charge me $26 to dismount, remount and balance...but that does not include the stem. I've never had to wait more than about 20 minutes for a pair. If it matters, I carry mine in, had bad experiences with center caps and air guns in the past(not there), they just don't understand that you cannot use an inpact socket on most wheels with centercaps.

What do they charge to chassis dyno your car? Is it by the hour, by the pull, can you tune in-between? Are you on your own so to speak, or do they offer any advice based on what they see, ie: rich or lean fuel, ignition curves, stuff like that? I really would like to get my car on a dyno to see what it has, all I have is traction limited 1/4 mile slips to go by. According to the chart Hot Rod posted I'm giving up over a half second to chassis/traction.

I had the same thing happen to my 85 Z28. Have someone push in on the clutch pedal while you look at the rubber boot on the slave cylinder. My (replacement) slave is plastic with a metal sleeve inside that the piston slides in. The sleeve is retained by a nylon ring, the ring split and the fluid was bypassing the piston and filling the rubber bellows(boot) that seals the rod with fluid. You might have to pump the pedal a couple times to get it full enough to see it.

Is the Steak and Shake show every Wednesday or just some weeks? Once a month there is a good show at Lincoln Village on West Broad@ 270 first sat night of the month I think, Also at DQ at Georgesville Sq in front of Lowes.