Crossle

Acquiring too much stuff too fast, help start cleaning my garage out guys/gals. PM me, or call me if you have my #, can send pics via text, so if you want pics send me your number. Michelin Pilot Sport A/S - Off a very well-aligned car 2) 235/40/18 Measured 7/32 tread middle of 2009 DOT# 2) 265/35/18 Measured 5/32 tread middle of 2009 DOT # Asking $300 for all 4, will split in pairs. $150 for either pair. Continental Extreme Contact DWS - Off a very well-aligned car 2) 235/45/17 Guesstimate 6/32 tread First quarter 2011 DOT# Asking $100 for pair I have more, I'm just started with these, I have a full set of 4 235/45/17's that I will sell for $100, but I am not going to try and pull them down right this minute until these other ones are out of my way. I will update this accordingly.

#weldporn bro

Apologies on the delay - PM's replied.

Those head gasket jobs just look like so much fun. I knew what had to be done to get to them, but wow, that just doesn't look like much fun. Kudo's for getting those out the door.

Let's say it's more of a "camaro" build. The "miata" car is yet to be obtained so to speak.

YUSSSSS

PLEASE READ CAREFULLY I know there are not many MR2 people on here, but I am parting out a '91 MR2 Turbo. The car was T-Boned on the driver's door. The car is Crimson Red in color/black interior and has what looks like paint that has been dripped onto various parts of the body. The metal parts are rust free. I also own a '92 White/Blue interior car, the intent is to swap the black interior into my car that has blue. With that being said I will be selling my BLUE interior, so if there are interior bits you need please do not hesitate to ask. I AM NOT SELLING THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE RED TURBO CAR -Engine/Trans/Harness/Computer -Black interior as mentioned -Fog Lights -Engine Cover -Steering Rack -Rear Sub Frame -Any suspension component from the left front (something is bent, brake parts ok) What Is Available for ASAP pickup -Rear Bumper $100 -Front Bumper minus fog lights and side markers $75 -Passenger front fender $50 -Hood $100 -Rear trunk lid with spoiler and body winglets $100 -Head light assy's with covers, motors, and bulbs (not converted from sealed beam) $100 -Rear USDM tail lights with center piece, the Right lens has damage. $40 -OEM Rear strut brace $20 -OEM Front strut brace X2 $20 each -Haggard rear strut brace someone made $Free -Spare power steering rack - consider it bare, no tie rods/boots. $200 -Front and rear brake calipers - $25 a piece -Right front suspension corner - knuckle/hub/control arm/tension rod - $75 -Rear struts with bearing plates - $40 for both -Muffler - $75 -Under body plastics - $40 for all minus the one under the front bumper -Front fender plastics - $20 for both -"Frunk" plastic piece that goes behind spare tire - $10 (typical crack in center from flexing it to get it out.....) I put rough pricing, obviously I will wheel and deal on this stuff. These cars are getting harder to find and should eventually appreciate. And I do have more on the cars obviously. It is easiest for me if you just PM me your "grocery list" and I will tell you what I have/don't have and a total price.

Beyond me why anyone put's tires like that on their road vehicle. The ride is so horrible.

Edit: DUI check point was last night on sawmill (Friday).

Yes, from me. I may be bringing an extra 6 with me, I'll edit THIS post as I get lock in's. Most of you know these people, they just don't post here.

That would be NEAT. There is a Toyota Tacoma single cab, RWD, manual on craigslist in Dallas with a 3.0L (or whatever) V6 swap out of a 4runner with a TRD super charger strapped on it.

The lower intake gasket is a very common place for these to leak. You would be able to see it on the driver's side leaking down the block onto the transmission bell housing. Lower intake and Water pump is what I see most on these motors. Radiator is a possibility on any car, but heed your own advice and verify before throwing parts at it.

Don't just look at the caliper. Remember that the suspension geometry changes with the car in the air. Put the wheel on that is giving you trouble set the car on the ground and thoroughly check it's clearances all around including the back side. That is, if you can't determine the "grinding" point on the wheel you took off.

ST185 Chassis is HOT, just sayin. Not so surprising, there is never any love for the uber rare CAMRY All-trac.

MR2 - ~2850 LGT - ~3100

Thanks for the referral love, although unfortunately I am no longer doing them as a side thing and our shop does not do them in haus.

Good way to eliminate the new wheels as the problem. I know it seems dumb, and I am sure we have all done it, but did you put one of the rear wheels on the front?

Derp lol, dealing with too many Benz's right now.

I would expect to pay mid to low teens for it. Leaning more towards low teens.

Are you positive it is the brakes? Are the wheels a different off set than your "old" wheels? Make sure the back lip of the wheel isn't grinding a suspension component........look for a shiny mark. Me thinks it's not a brake problem, and your interpretation is miss-leading the general assembly here. Let's not get to far into brakes before you are sure it's the brakes. A stuck caliper will not cause "grinding" unless there is no brake pad left, or it has fallen off if you have only driven a short distance. SECONDLY, make sure that NOT ONLY THE WHEEL, BUT THE WHEEL WEIGHTS clear the caliper.

IMO, Mercedes Service "letter" system is an easy way for the dealership to up sell services at a premium whether the car needs it or not. In the services I look for where the spark plug interval is and that's about it. Service D or E calls for fuel filter replacement which is in the gas tank and accessed under the back seat. When I called Crown to price out said "filter" they didn't even keep one in stock...... When I am handed a Mercedes regardless of what inspection letter it is on, it gets the same check over, and will receive the services it needs accordingly. I wouldn't take it as a big deal. If this car were to hit my rack tomorrow for an inspection this is what I would be looking at the closest. -Air filters (assuming that they shouldn't have needed to be done from original until about now) -Brake pad depths -Brake fluid condition - ready for second flush on 2 year cycles. -Tires - Which have already been done Otherwise there is not much the car should need at 24K miles if it has not been abused. The batteries in these things seem to last quite a long time, so I wouldn't be to worried about it being 4 years old other than the fact the car hasn't been driven much apparently.

Great looking car! Enough to sway me to consider it lol.

To the average butt, it has about the same power as a turbo car without having to deal with turbo maintenance. Which I suppose is the appeal of them. Pretty rock solid cars for sure. Not 100% on what the fuel economy difference is, but I would imagine the turbo car would be better out of boost, but I could be wrong.

Pretty awesome to say the least.

Thanks guys! Lots of cool stuff.