Crossle

It's inside?

Erica and I were co-driving that day hence the "L" that was forgotten when I hopped in.

125cc karts for a well prepped set up with a chassis a couple years old should run between $2,000-$3,000. In pieces needing assembly somewhere around $1000-$1500 These are karts that regularly run Mid-Ohio @120mph++ -OR- you can run the slower karts that I have no knowledge of the costs. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z39/crossle_sean/n616650927_2940089_6294748.jpg

I don't blame you. I make a campus cruise every once and awhile, but I never stop anywhere.

I've ended up with my last 3 cars by snagging them after they have been for sale for a couple weeks out from under all the talkers. Typically it was because I had a trailer and could haul them. I'll be in touch after the Honda sells.

If this is still for sale when my Honda goes away I swear I'm just going to buy the damn thing. I have always wanted one, so if someone really wants it you betta get moving.

I will have them this weekend, I posted this here at the shop and don't have a camera. No the intake is not leaking, it is not a lot of work, just doesn't leave a large enough profit margin. I personally don't turn a car unless I think I can make $1500+ on it. SO he is selling it now to make a couple bucks with little work.

2000 Buick Regal GS 94,100 miles on the 3.8L Series II Supercharged V6 White exterior with Gray leather interior Body is solid, no major rust. A/C works, loaded options Supercharger is putting out around 7lbs of boost according to a Tech II scan tool, runs strong. Records here at the shop dating back to 86K include the following, Mass air flow sensor, blower motor, turn signal switch, front outer tie rods, front sway bar, fuel pump, fuel filter, front sway bar links, alignment. There are also receipts showing very regular synthetic oil changes. The car is being sold by our lead tech, he bought it then decided it would need to much for him to fix and sell to a customer. To be perfect, he would recommend the following. -Brake Lines -Pads have about 15% left on all 4 corners -LF axle boot starting to toss grease, boot is not torn -Check engine light is on for EVAP purge, which is likely due to the rusty lines under the car. -Left mirror is "foggy" These are the items he would address if he were to fix it himself to make it "perfect", or as nice as possible to sell to a customer knowing that our name was going behind it. It is certainly very driveable, pictures to come, or if you are really serious you can just cut to the chase and stop by the shop M-F 7am-6pm. 4330 Indianola Avenue Columbus, 43214. I am available by PM as well.

There is an upright in our basement. Probably have to tear the house down to get it out, but I would sell it lol. It's a Marshall and Wendel

I thought you were gonna be sugar momma today?????

Hmmm, may have to come out and play with the shifter again before the end of the year.

The underpowered part you are talking about is why I am so unhappy with the MR2 right now. You literally explained it how I would, just not enough steam b/w turns at times.

They is filled BRUH, find your own :fuckyeah:

You know where they are at. The 45 sidewall won't clear my fenders

Damnit I thought you needed 17's lol. Have a stack of Nitto Neogen's 225/45/17

Hmmm, interesting. Makes sense though, thanks.

This may have been coverd, but why do these cars have 2 coolant reservoirs/caps?

That thing looks nasty, awesome car.

Certainly fits the definition, just wrong era chassis to start with lol.

Ours has been as well. I just don't care beacuse TV isn't that important to me.... Not a bash at everyone else, but we don't watch TV all that often.

My comment was in reference to the ever popular water pumps, not the head gaskets.

I finally condemned all of them that came into the shop regularly, it was a glorious day. I hated working on them, probably because every hill jack had their hands on them before I got it then had to charge big bucks to make it right. If you do consider getting it, at least check the safety issues with a car of that time. Take a close look at the brake/fuel lines and make sure they aren't about to pop. Make sure there isn't coolant already leaking on the bottom of the motor, oil leakage is a given as long as it's not pouring out and you keep it full you will be fine. Check to see how clean/dirty the coolant is in the radiator. If it smells terrible and is a nasty color I would just pass.

Hmm, interesting. Nobody is perfect that's for sure and mistakes happen in the automotive world.

4330 Indianola Ave. Columbus, 43214 M-F 8-6 The Northend Wrench We can do it no problem, no charge. Like you said, it doesn't take any time at all. Ask for Sean, I'll take care of it. I noticed you didn't say year/model, if it's a '10+ we may have trouble, but pre '10 should not be an issue. PM me and I can verify for you.

Ok, you say that you re-wired it because it's a common problem, but was it actually the problem? I mean, did you actually find a broken wire? Have you looked at a wiring diagram? If no is the answer for the top 2 questions then you need a wiring diagram, and you need to start over it sounds like. From where to where did you run the wires? From the speaker all the way to the head unit, or to inside the kick panels? If not, then you could have wired it totally wrong as some cars OEM audio wires change color going from the door to the chassis. Like the '99 Civic I had the same issue with, but over-looked the wire broken at the door as it was a different color than the one coming out of the speaker.