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Everything posted by craig71188
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If in Cincinatti (and now Florence) El Coyote - great tex-mex and Margaritas on tap!! Frozen or on the rocks - or my favorite-the 50/50 +1 for El Vaquero up here!
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True statement in many respects - especially at a regional level. When you got on to Divisional/National level, you have to have the same level of prep/equipment as the top guys. Odds are you aren't going to find too many poor drivers or cars that have been proven non-competitive in the class. You also need very fresh tires - we found out a lot about this at the last event. There will always be exceptions to this rule that come up. Many, many years ago, some folks took a Fiat 850 to National and cleaned up - very well prepped and very well driven. Everyone had written these little cars off as too obscure and not competitive. The next year, 3 or 4 showed up, none did all that well - they hadn't sorted them out and learned to drive them well. The bottom line is (as in any motorsport) you need to pick a car that is at least competitive, learn to drive it very well, and prep it to the limit of the rules for your class. Stock class is usually the cheapest place to do this. I picked C-mod as it is basically a spec class for Formula Fords. Some are better than others, but if you do the right prep and have fresh tires, you can be competitive (not always a winner - but respectable).
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Gotta be either Schmidt's Sausage House (if you like German food) best Bratwurst, authentic german potato salad and killer deserts OR Old Bag of Nails/Pig Iron - owned by the same folks. Pig Iron has great pulled pork and the great fish & chips, the original pub in old Worthington is a little better atmosphere - but no BBQ!
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Just respect your elders - that's Mr. Smartass Asshole! (and if I had as much in my car as the Evo, I could have run a sub 39 time!!! LOL) I know it's always tough to jump from car to car and get the last little bit out of it. Best to be smooth and quick ans work your way up (down?) to faster times.
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Fast as shit?!? Does that make 43.664 clean FASTER than shit? Would that be FTS or just FTD??? (I didn't see what the karts ran).
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Great time - saw some new faces - got our Solo chair into the car for a couple of runs - didn't break anything and learned a little bit for the winter tweaking!!! Time to get ready for next year!!!
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Karen Holbrook weighs in "As long as they do there drinking at an official commercial tailgate party and not in my parking lots, unless of course it's in a $1M contributor's motorhome!!!"
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Megaman already picked through my leftovers, I do have two old cases with power supplies and mother boards (PII I think), no hard drives and I don't know how much if any memory is left in them. The wife just wants them gone-they just missed the trashman last week. Send me a note if you want to come get them - north Clintonville area.
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Real member??? - are there lots of imaginary members that I should be aware of???
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God Bless them - those that can serve under the circumstances they have to deal with and still have a sense of humor!!!
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The Lathe is fairly worn, it has had the ways done before as the serial numbers are gone. The mill is pretty good, has a tag where it was rebuilt (I'll have to check the date - but it won't indicate how much use since) The tool mounts - about ditto to the above. The lathe will need some equipment to come in. I can roll it on pipe to the door - after that it's up to the buyer (know a good HD wrecker company?) I'll have to check on the diameter of the 3 &4 jaw chucks and the faceplate. Just to guess 3 jaw 10-12", 4 jaw 12-14" (I know its larger than the 3 jaw), faceplate - about the same as the 4 jaw. Mill is #9 Brown & Sharpe, I have several individual diameter holders, a collet type tool holder, and several adapters to other size B&S and MT tooling. Lathe has powered thread cutting, a live center and bit holder, several cutting heads, parting tool for the 4 way tool holder and another asortment for a single tool holder including a knurler.
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Also, for anyone under 18 - you will need a minor waiver signed by both parents. I believe you can download the form from SCCA.com (or .org).
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The road race Fiero that inhabited the garge and it's sister parts car are gone. The only garage stuff left that I want to sell rather than move are the machine tools listed elsewhere in this forum (Metal lathe, mill, balancer, sharpener). Of course wildly big cash offers could buy the Formula Ford and trailer - almost anything can be replaced!
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It's always subject to change, but in the past we still run in heats, but you get tickets to turn in for each of your runs - regardless of who's car you're driving! Same number of runs, but no real scoring.
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Gee, $125K, I just don't think that will get it done..... If I get some time this weekend (busy-last autox of the season), I'll try to shoot a few inside shots and get them posted.
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Randy, You have a PM on the house...
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I thought the DSM forum had the same message as the NSX forum - or is it "any new wrecking yard finds for a used transmission" As though I should talk - the Formula Ford forum is always full of the "know where I can find a 1600 pinto block - the one's we all threw away to go to 2.0L motors?"
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We're planning to be there to do a little testing for next year (a few small changes we didn't get arond to making during the year). Maybe we'll also play a little with some other cars as well...
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Yes, it's me - straighten your act up, I'll be watching.....
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Thanks! The garage was built in 1981 - shortly after that the city of Columbus changed the zoning to only allow garages of 720 sq ft or less (unless you get a zoning variance - fat chance unless you have big $$$$). This one is 1120 sq ft (+/-) and you get the "lower" city taxes (as opposed to the 'burbs). Like I said, I'd rather see a car guy (or girl for that matter) get it as opposed to it being a glorified self storage unit. The nearest Columbus high school would be Whetstone, althought there are a couple of charter schools closer. The closest grade school I think is Salem Elementary and probably Dominion Middle School. My kids are at DeSales, but it's about the same distance to Watterson. St Michaels (K-8) is right aroung the corner.
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http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/3610/p1030167da0.jpg http://img50.imageshack.us/img50/6107/p1030168ga5.jpg http://img109.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1030169cl0.jpg
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Lodge & Shipley Lathe - 14x40 w/taper, 3 jaw/4 jaw/faceplate and tooling. 7.5 HP 3 phase, but includes converter - massive & HEAVY – 5000+ lbs - $1000 Index #55 Vertical Mill - 220V single phase, power feed on table & spindle, lots of tooling $2500 LOS (Losenhausen) Single Plane Balancer - 220V, 3 phase - would be great for doing flywheels, some tooling, I've not had it under power but it looks to be intact and in good shape (or I wouldn't have bouht it!) $350 Tool Sharpener - small tool sharpening machine, has coolant pump and resevoir built in, needs grinding wheel mounts fabricated $50. Yes, I can send photos - and I will deal (some) if you want more than one piece.
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I am going to be moving in the near future, and before I turn my realtor loose on selling my place, I am trying to get the word out to car guys to get them first crack at it. I thought about selling about ten years ago, but built on instead. At that time I had a parade of lookers come through who couldn't care less about the garage - what a waste! I need to move my wife into a single story house, so this time it has to go - but better to an enthusiast than someone who's going to let it go to waste (IMHO). So here are the details - if you know anyone, please have them get in touch: $189,900 – North Clintonville (backs up to Worthington) Garage: 28x40 block, 100 amp electrical service, air lines throughout, rear shop measures approx. 28x18, accessed by single overhead door or service door to front of garage. Shop is insulated and has fluorescent lighting, gas heat and provision for window a/c. 240v outlets and an outside service door. Front area has double overhead door and incandescent lighting. House: Two story, Tudor Styling (Brick/Stucco/Shingle), approx 1600 sq ft., exterior just painted! Hardwood throughout except kitchen, 2nd floor bath and 1st floor master, gas heat, central air, updated electrical and plumbing. First Floor: Living Room, Dining Room, Kitchen and Master Bedroom/Bath Second Floor: Three Bedrooms, Full Bath, Walk In Closet, pull down stairs to attic Basement: Full basement with a third full bath and an office. Large room (approx 15.5 x 25.5) could be finished into rec room or ??? – features three windows and an outside entrance! Lot: Double lot measures approx 76 x 145, long driveway with 40’ gravel pad by garage for trailer(s), motorhomes, etc! Great neighbors have put up with me for almost 20 years with no problems. House & garage are currently full of our stuff – take a look – we can leave some of it for you! jcbutt"at"wideopenwest.com
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Where's the best place to buy a rebuild kit for a
craig71188 replied to Stampede's topic in Passing Lane
That's a pretty open question - it all depends on how much you want... The reallity is, no engine parts manufacture has a "kit" other than a part number - they just pull a bunch of parts based on your oversize/undersize requirements, throw them in a box and call it a "kit". Some of the old "kit" packagers used some very questionable quality parts. Your best bet is to decide what you need and shop the specific parts from a quality brand of engine parts/gasket manufacturer. Personally, I like Fel Pro gaskets, but Victor-Reinz is also a good quality. As far as internal engine-Vandervell is great for bearings, there are too many good piston/ring people to recommend one - it just depends on what you want to build. You may try talking to the machine shop that's going to do your work-the bigger/better ones are set up direct with the engine parts builders. -
Just like it says - I need a set of 8 lug truck wheels in a 16x7 or 16x8 for my Suburban. Poor paint OK, but no dents. Clean out your garage... Thanks!