craig71188

Well.... I like it, but she still wants a truck, probably going to a Ranger/S10/Toyota/etc.

Got this for my daughter to drive - still need to go smaller. See the details and photos here: http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/376115876.html

Too many finalists in the "Stealing Live Power Wires" category. No style points for just any old power wires - my vote is still for the guy that tried it in a substation - that's style - and a much higher level of stupidity!

Interesting that the parts are in "Columbus, OH" but the phone number is a "562" area code (Long Beach, CA) - I know the boat didn't dock here. 80% positive feedback - I'd give them a few weeks and see if they even survive. $19 shipping + $29 for each additional item??? Is that for the second rotor and then the pads - I know that sounds stupid - but buyer beware!

...where men are men and sheep are scared.....

Thanks, Pat - I'll mention it to Sean to "check out" (if I see him before i go this morning) - if you think about it, ask him when you see him today.

No, she needs it to be less thirsty - she has a V6 Dakota (soon to be FS) - but when she starts back to school, plus work, etc, the gas mileage will kill her meager budget!

My daughter needs a small truck for a DD - Looking for something under $2500 - under $2K would be better. Decent body/interior, short bed, needing mechanical work is OK (if priced accordingly!). Also, less than 120K miles would be great. GM/Ford/Mazda/Toyota/Nissan - no preference if it meets the criteria above! Hell, I'd even look at nice VW p/u if any still exist!! (nice ones that is) Craig 614-668-5939

I've got an older set of PGA aluminum shafted clubs - full set of irons & woods, head covers, putter, sand wedge and bag (ladies style-my daughter thought it "was pretty') $20. I picked them up for my daughter - no real interest - I just want the space and my $$$ back.

SOLD - gone - Lock it up!

Try this one: http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/339710679.html Make me a reasonable offer and it just might be yours!!!

Pat - Sean got me your message check you PM - BTW-XR4Ti - not a good drag car - transmission weak with bad ratio spacing from 1st to 2nd. If you get past this - rear suspension geometry and IRS are not "launch friendly" on this car. Good from a roll in 2nd gear - good as a freeway/backroad tourer and parts are still getting to be a PITA. Can be had from Europe but that too is a pain.

+1 I just hope someone running a red light doesn't hit me - I don't want to go to jail for knocking them senseless (more senseless?) for being in such a big as hurry as to endanger me, my family and everyone else - get real - no one is that important! As to the 6 mph rolling turn on red - just don't do it - especially if you know the camera is there, duh!?!?

For the first time in forever - I ran in the first heat - and was glad I did. The car has much better steering response with the stiffer front springs, and overall had more grip than the driver was able to coax himself to use! Still having the hydraulic clutch issue (sinking pedal), got to get kits rounded up for the master/slave cylinders before the next event. Barring too many more "must do" projects around the house I'll get that done and make the 17th!

Not really - car came down to bare frame to check for cracks/problems and get cleaned. New stiffer springs in front and new springs in rear. All that was done to the motor was to pull the pan to check the bearings and the usual reset of points/valves/etc. It was just due for a thorough going over after 2+ autocross seasons and a few races at Waterford Hills (previous owner). I did find a few issues that were corrected - and some suspension adjustments were made. It will take a few events to get the sway bar and shock settings up to snuff - but I'll be interested to see if we pick up any ground against the PAX index. See you Sunday!

Well, only the third points event - but I'm finally in - as long as I get out of TX on time Friday!!! We'll get to see if: 1) I got everything right on the car's winter rebuild 2) See if any of the changes helped it go faster 3) My old fat ass can shake off the cobwebs and drive Hope it's dry - see you there!!

I've never met the woman - but I've yet to meet anyone who has that thinks she knows anything. When Mrs. B worked there - the city inspectors shut down the kitchen because she hadn't found a way to get the ancient stoves / fryers / etc. repaired/updated/replaced - but she airconditoned the gym and got the lobby redecorated!!! Too bad the alumni don't seem to notice that - or care! I'll never contribute to the school as long as she's there.

I've heard the tale and still don't understand how you two got into any trouble for something you didn't instigate, couldn't do anything about and left when it happened - of course MH has always been an idiot (IMHO) !!!

Sounds like your having one hell of a weekend. There are "on the car" boot kits (split boots). As is typicaly, they are a compromise - or not as good as the "original". One type glues together, one type has some sort of fastener. The key thing is they have to be pristine clean to seal when you put them together - and them have time to "cure" or dry at the joint. If they are dirty anywhere, that's where they will come apart as soon as they flex. It can be done and it's generally faster than pulling the axle. I'd be tempted to rotate the shaft so the 'nick" is at the 12:00 o'clock position, clean it up real well and try some RTV silicone sealant if it's small. Again, just get it clean and leave it time to dry.

The pins are usually available from any parts store. Heat is always good for stuck stuff - but you've got to be real careful with calipers. If you got it to move a little, lube up any of it that you got exposed and try knocking it back in, lube it again and try again. Sometimes working it both ways will help free it up.

Pat, Take a picture of them and slap them on Craig's list. Better put them on for $60 - then you might get the $50! (after you get offers for $20)

The Laser 917 was one of the many VW Beetle (the original air cooled) kit cars from the 60's & 70's. This one was loosely based on the Porsche 917 race cars that dominated endurance racing in the early 70's. Some of these also had engines other than VW swapped in, but were still Beetle chassis based.

You pull vacuum on the system primarily to dry it. At lower pressure the moisture in the system "boils" at a much lower pressure. The dryer the system - the colder the a/c can get. If this system has been discharged for a while, you would benefit from replacing the accumulator or receiver dryer - the dessicant in the one on the car isprobably worthless.

The formula ford is running, brakes bled, suspension all torqued & safety wired - if I can tie up a few loose ends (both on the car-and Mother's Day), I may make the trip as well. Don't know if Sean plans to drive the MR2 (his street tires are in today) and he has some Hoosiers for the stock wheels OR he could decide to drive the Crossle if it goes. I'll have to check with him and make a go/no go decision later tonight.

You're thinking of SCCA road racing - for actual "on track" wheel to wheel competition you need to do the physical, novice permit, school, etc. For the autocross all you need is a car that can pass tech and an approved helmet (and they'll loan you those!).