craig71188

OK - it's warming up, I'm done moving and REALLY have no room - $2400 or make me a reasonable offer (cash talks!) - see link for photos, phone number and old price!!! (old link deleted)[/url] I'll drop the price on craigslist next week and post the "new" link then as well. NEW LINK: http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/339710679.html

Still have the converter on it? If it's never been changed, sometimes (after 150K!) the catalyst itself will rattle inside the can - worse at idle in most cases. It can sound like it's coming from underhood. Just a thought.

I'm looking to buy a storage shed, but I need to rent a trailer - or will pay some one to move a 10' x 20' wood shed from the other side of Newark to north Columbus. Mapquest shows a 55 mile trip one way. If you've got the equipment and want to make some cash - let me know. Craig - 614-668-5939

Pat, you pay when you sign up online - just don't wait too long as traditionally that is a "restricted" event with a limited entry.

The link below will answer a lot of your questions: http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34288 At 17 you will need a minor waiver signed and notorized by both parents. Once on file at the beginning of the year - you are set for that season. The minor waiver can be found and downloaded/printed here: http://www.ovr-scca.org/_ovrclub/formsandlinks/formsandlinks.asp?hl=forms.asp See you at the events!

http://www.racingsportscars.com/photo/1978/TN_Mid-Ohio-1978-08-27-040.jpgI've always had a soft spot for 914's - above is the one I crewed for in IMSA in the late 70's - early 80's. 300 hp - 2.7L Porsche flat 6! Turbo's are neat-but normally aspirated still kicks ass!!! By the way - a great sight for vintage photos of all types of road racing: http://www.racingsportscars.com/

Register in "E" Stock. Your muffler is downstream of the cat and the car is otherwise stock. Besides - it's just a school - and as far as the regular events, until you get comeptitive - no one will probably care. Did you get your front sway bar links yet?

Yea, I'm old too - try this out if you haven't been there - click on the "valut radio" for some great old unreleased leve recordings. http://www.wolfgangsvault.com/

As with all "purpose built" tires, when you try and use them for something else there is some compromise. Drag radials will outperform a stiffer autocross/road race DOT tire at the strip - because they're designed to. But, a sticky DOT autocross tire will get hot and sticky and outperform a "regular" street tire. This would be a good compromise on a dual use tire. As mentioned before, th drag radial just isn't really safe for autocross. That said, I have had good luck with the Kumho V700 (and now 710) on big cars (Camaro/Mustang)-they seem to have good grip and last longere than some others I've tried.

WOW - you should listen to yourself!!! 1978 was my senior year in high school and we were treated to the same stories about the pending ice age and all the fossil fuels running out. Time and Newsweek even did cover stories on the "scientists" and their "studies " predicting all this. Now here we are almost 30 years later and that same scientific community has latched on to "global warming", and for at least 20 years we've been hearing if we don't act in the next 10 years, it will be "irreversible". Sound at all like your statements? Sound at all like the "ice age" scare? What do you speculate the scientific "crisis" will be in 2030???? (by the way - if it is all the "global warming" crisis as predicted, it will be because of the sun getting hotter and their's noting we can do to change that - just deal with it)

I looked into this at one time and the answer was no. The sidewall construction of the drag radials is meant for a straight line launch - they do not have the stiffness for the cornering loads in autoross.

I have certainly heard enough of this "science" - V8KILR is right - these same scientists were proclaiming anither ICE AGE was imminent in 1978!!! (for the younger of you who were not alive for that trial indoctrination). Are we going through a period of warming - YES! Guess what, the sun is currently getting hotter - scientists who study Mars have found it has a rise in temperature that is comparable to the rise on Earth. "little green men farts?!?!?! The arrogance of man and some scientists thinking that they can actually destroy the earth is laughable. Cows have more harmful emissions than man can generate. One large volcanic eruption can put out more harmful chemicals than we've been able to produce in man's pathetically short time on this planet. Don't get me wrong, we should live responsibly, but let's get China. Mexico and the third world countries to clean up their industries to the level of the US's before we try and cripple our economy while the rest of the world spews filth. I would say, just follow the money and the power. A lot of this is driven by liberals at the UN who have an axe to grind with America (despite the fact we offer the only safe place on earth for them to meet and pontificate). Also, scientists who spout unproven theories get more grant money to try and prove them. Al Gore doesn't seem to live a life in tune with what he preaches - and is buying "carbon credits" from himself and some business partner that mean nothing - except he's paying himself to look good. For myself, I think I'll just try and use only as much as I need (within reason), try not to make a mess where I live and work, and enjoy my non-hybrid vehicle! By the way - a little more reading for you: http://www.junkscience.com/Greenhouse/

Registration looks to be open now - wow $50 for the school and $30 for the Points Event - sure glad SCCA is just "friendly little club"!!!!! Pat/Pat/Jeff - just send the registrar a note that you would like me as an instructor. I haven't seen a request for instructors yet, but Andy Bell knows me well enough to get in touch.

Scam, Scam, Scam - they must teach every one of these to use the term "advert" - also note they never mention what you're selling, it's always "your item". RUN AWAY!!!

At least at the farigrounds having to pay for parking kept SOME of the RIF RAF out!!!!

EXTRAVAGANZA - admission is FREE!!! (goes west.....)

As fas as my driving this year - I don't know what I'm doing for sure. There is still a small chance the formula car could stay (depends on some final numbers on the new house/improvements needed on same). Sean wants to run his MR2 at some events-since I actually OWN it, I could drive it on occasion. If the FF stays, I will drive it, if it goes, I will be shopping the used kart mart!!! Worse case, I'll be at some events "coaching" Sean and a couple of other likely new guys (Pat & Pat) as I've known them since they were wee little people.

Since it seem slike a lot of folks are thinking about trying out an SCCA event this year, here's a few sources of information and things to do before you come to an event so you can enjoy yourself instead of scrambling around: 1) Figure out your car's class and what modifications you are allowed. The Solo II rulebook is available as a PDF file here: http://www.scca.org/Solo/Index.asp?IdS=04D4F6-DEBDD90&x=050|070&~= 2) Get some numbers and class letters for your car that can be read from a distance - vinyl graphics or magnetic are nice, but some contact paper in a contrasting color or wide masking tape can work just fine for the budget minded - or to just try it out. 3) Register for the event online in advance and know what the schedule is. Pre registration is available here: http://www.dlbracing.com/default.aspx? Create an account and sign in and then you're all set. 4) Be sure your car will pass tech BEFORE you go to the event. Get all the loose crap out of it, be sure it doesn't leak, be sure the battery hold downs are intact and the battery doesn't move. Be sure your wheel bearings/ball joints/tie rods/etc. do not have any play in them. Be sure your tires aren't down to the cords. The goal isn't to keep you out - it's to keep you safe in case you overlooked any of these things. 5) It's an outdoor thing! Bring an extra coat, rain gear, sunscreen, water, snacks - plan to be outside all day. 6) Bring a tire gauge, air tank or compressor (or hook up with a buddy who has this stuff), paper towels, glass cleaner, quart of oil, a few tools maybe?-just some of the basics in case you need to adjust your tires pressures, clean the windshield, etc., etc. 7) Get to the event early, register, sign up as a novice, check your work/run assignments, go to tech. Then go walk the course over, and over, and over, and over, and over. 8) Go to the novice meeting and course walk - LISTEN - you may learn something. 9) Ask for help if you need it - or just ask someone if they can direct you to someone who can help - somone's probably had the same problem before. 10) Most important - HAVE FUN - it's not life and death - it's playtime for big kids! I know this sounds like a lot - after a few events it gets to be routine. You pack up a little "track kit" of tools and stuff and stick it all in an old milk crate and it's ready to throw in the trunk to take. Look for the guys on the list - most of us have pictures of our cars posted - park near us and ask questions. As it's been said before - we're all enthusiasts and most people are more than willing to share some knowledge or time to help you get started. Generally speaking, someone did the same for us when we started. See you in April!!!

Running in the later heats also means less dust/rocks/dirt on the course - usually us slick tire guys get a break and get to run then! But yes, working the course is a grat way to learn. Things you think you saw when you walked the course are often tighter or faster when you actually see it driven. As far as geting lost in the cone jungle - it happens to everyone. Walk, walk, then walk the course again. Especially when you get old and can't remember shit anyway - I'll walk the course at LEAST 4-5 times and sometimes as may as 10 times if there are things I'm not sure of. The one thing I stress to new people is learn the course and take your time (reltaively speaking on your first run - be sure you DO get through the course. I know if I screw up on the first run - I often start to screw up in the same place on subsequent runs. Imprint the right way on the first run and then build on that.

Broken Chain - motor spins over real easy - could be described the same way as the starter will be spinning much faster than when cranking an engine with proper timing. Hence the comment-check the motor/ring gear first, then proceed to other options. It's always a crap shoot to diagnose by a description of sound - a very subjective observation.

Worst case - broken timing chain, check the starter/ring gear first though

Mace - you have a PM

While I wouldn't mind doing another Firebird (having owned a few), I've got no room with the move. I already have two "project cars" stored elsewhere that will be quick "fix & turn" projects - and I can't get to them. Sorry!

WOW -still wary about you driving around in a parking lot!!! I'll bet she's scared to death of you driving on the streets then!!! LOL!!! Couldn't help myself! Pat B - I assume the car/exhaust is better - and your gas bill has gone down? Sean hasn't updated me lately.

http://www.smpcorp.com/markImage0.aspx?img=UF192.jpgLooks like this x8 on the top of each bank of cylinders (one for each plug-4 per bank). Probably in Haynes/Chilton as "Ignition Coil". The term "coil pack" is more applicable to earlier systems where you had a coil with multiple cylinders fired from a common coil or "pack". These usually fired 2/4/6 cylinders out of one part. More and more we are now going to an individual coil for each cylinder. These are usually easy to diagnose on '96 up cars with a scan tool. Just need to look for the misfiring cylinder and then check the coil KV's. THe "prefered" course of action is to replace them in a set - but you can do them individually, over and over and over again until all eight get done.