kirks5oh

sounds worthy of making a thread over. :dumb:

anyone who knows anything about these cars, knows what a fully built, stalled auto, is capable of. to top it off, mine is fully automatic (not a full manual valvebody). for a cobra, that means a mach1 computer (since no cobras were autos), and complete rewiring of the harness, etc etc. not cheap, but definitely worth it. i have 3 other stickshift sports cars to row through the gears all i want.:lolguy: the cobra is markedly faster with the auto, and hopefully this summer i'll have some timeslips to show for it.

bassani as hal stated or slp (lmII, not loudmouth). i've had MAC, bassani, and now slp on my cobra---slp sounds the best, and the quality/fitment of their systems is second to none.

take it to dynotune. brian will do a couple short runs at first---3500rpms or 4000rpms to make sure your tune is not drastically off. he'll be able to tell you if you're running out of pump, injector, and/or mass air. like stated above, the car should have 60lb injectors, at least a boost a pump, and some type of mass air extender (mafx, mafia, or SCT mass air unit--the best choice).

i just had a fully built 4r70w put in my car. my builder said the clutch looked great when he removed it---i've been at 590rwhp with drag radials since 2007. i would do the input shaft only if it, or the clutch breaks.

if the blower has been ported, i would not recommend puting it back to stock. just get a decent tune, make sure you're not out of pump/injector/mass air, and run the bitch. too much work to put everything back to stock---you'd need a stock blower, stock belt, etc etc. get the car tuned as it sits, and run it. the difference between a stock and a pulleyed cobra is about 60-80 rwhp. in your case, your car should be at around 525rwhp, vs 360rwhp stock---

mine just rolled over 19k miles, and i thought i had the lowest mileage. i added mustang GT brakes to the solid rear, in order to be able to run 15" wheels at the track. they're slightly smaller than the cobra/mach1 brakes, which require a 16" wheel.

yeah, i'd wait to get it tuned to make sure you don't grenade it. join svtperformance, and modularfords. tons, tons of info on both sites

+1 i personally wouldn't push the car too hard without knowing the tune is safe. many of these cars have been through several different combinations, and if the car was parted out before it was sold, it might not have been retuned---why would you go through the trouble of dyno-tuning a car that you were just going to send to auction?? the stock injectors won't be enough for an upper/lower/ported car. i had to switch to 60lber's when i ported my blower.

yeah, just seeing the pics now. you need to get billetflow idlers for the blower belt, with the snub idler---those look like the stockers, which have been known to grenade in stock form, let alone with a bigger lower pulley to spin them faster. the snub idler will also help eliminate belt slip at high rpms. if the car has anything more than a 2lb lower pulley, then you need to make sure the alternator pulley has been swapped to a larger pulley as well---to prevent over-spinning the alternator. get some better control arms for the rear end, especially if you're going to the track---check out maximum motorsports. if you're concerned about the stock rims fitting 315 tires, then buy two 10.5" cobra replica wheels---they will look like the stock 9" wheels, and will fit the 315's just fine, which is at least the size tire you'll need. the wheels should cost $160 apeice. if the car is an upper/lower/ported car, you're probably sitting at 500-525rwhp with a good tune, depending on the port. my car laid down as much as 505 rwhp with an upper pulley and a ported blower, before i went with the bigger blower. dynotune brian will be more than happy to do an excellent job on your car. not sure if rob lasota is still around, but he knows these cars pretty well and can probably look the car over.

happy. a properly set up solid rear will outperform the stock IRS. problem is, most jsut get a junkyard solid rear out of a GT, and upgrade the axles only. my solid rear handles much beter than the original IRS. of course, my car has a fully built, completely 'new parts' solid rear with all maximum motorsports stuff (lower ca's, panhard bar, torque arm, etc.). either way, the solid rear eliminates wheel hop, and drops over 100lbs off the car's weight

pretty bad ownage of a douchebag on svtperformance. you should be able to view the thread--its long but worth it. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/smack-down-cafe-18/768947-what-happens-when-you-borrow-you-parents-gt500-driver-member-here.html here's the cliffs 19 year old douchebag has been on the forum for a while, and is pretty much hated by everyone--has a slow ass mustang GT with a small shot claims his dad has a GT500, and lets him drive it to car show's when he's out of town said douchebag makes multiple videos of him and others in the car street racing--and losing most of the races makes another youtube video talking about how bad it would be to hit a deer with said car---and then he immediately hits a deer. everyone gives him crap saying they're going to tell his dad. another member chimes in and says the car actually belongs to his dad, and that the other guy is a former friend of the family who stole it multiple times to joy ride it while his dad was out of town. thread explodes, several days later he is arrested, looks like a crybaby emo in his 'mug shot'. photoshops ensue

bieber :dumb:

definitely a 'pump jumper' to run the intercooler pump and cool the ic fluid while sitting in the staging lanes with the car off. looks like some of the vacuum lines to the back of the blower (red tubing) have been replaced---make sure there's no vacuum leaks going into the blower. get the car tuned to make sure the tune is proper. welcome to the party pal. just got my cobra back from getting a race-ready automatic transmission installed.

http://www.imageshack.us is what i use. i'm picturing a riced out, abortion of a car with stickers all over it, but oh well---i'm eagerly awaiting pics---not sure i'll be able to concentrate at work

+rep

welcome to the site. can't see the pics at work but sounds like you have a couple nice rides.

you should have gone outside to talk to the officer---or called cpd and told them where you live and that you're a witness if you were afraid to even let this guy know where you live---that way the cop could have come over to get your statement. or you could call cpd and let them know your concerns about their reaction time. i agree with not risking yourself to break up a fight that for all you know could be a pimp laying the smackdown on one of his whores.

you probably have a couple options 1)move to a better area 2)go outside and intervene when shit like this happens 3)at the very least, video tape it with your phone 4)call the cpd and discuss the response time and your concerns 5)do nothing, say nothing--just move on with your life 6)whine about it like a bitch on a car website out of all those options, you seriously chose #6??

there are a lot of good things about florida, but plenty of annoying things as well. people are just downright rude there--yes, rude for no real reason at all. get ready to learn spanish. the summer heat is truly unbearable---really can't do much outside during the day in the summer months. traffic is crazy as well. hurricanes drive insurance through the roof for homes. job market was horrible when i lived there in 2008. but the cost of living there is just fine. the winters are incredible--weather is perfect. car scene is great.

why mod the piss out of a daily driver?? keep it close to stock. 300whp is plenty for a fun, RELIABLE daily driver.

love the 240.

fagbook.

$20k is nothing. man up.

good, clean car. homo that i work with won't shut up about his vigan saab, and how fucking cool it is. either way, i'd rock that out as a daily