Drew2o2

You would just have too check brake clearance a 15x8 may be easier but a 15x10 allows for a bigger tire in the future.

I don't know the b.s but a 15x10 with a 275 should do the duty maybe bigger if you have the power for it but I doubt you'll need more.

I havent had him do anything of mine yet but I've heard good things. I don't tune and am not affiliated with any of the shops but ive heard a over a dozen complaints on tunes being rich from the big names and I heard some way fucked up shit from a customer today whos a memeber on here that the big names tried tuning and he had a bad 02 and instead of fixing the problem and notifiying him they sent him on his way with without telling him they gave him a speed density tune that ran like shit, especially when the weather changed. He didn't even know it was SD until dtm fixed the tune and 02.

I would go to dtm for the tune.

Gremlin that kills power? Do you mean like a draw that kills the battery or the car acts dead with a charged battery. If you have a draw fix this first before further diagnostics. To fix unhook negative cable to battery and connect a test light to this point to and a well grounded platoon on the motor or chassis. If the light comes on when the key is off you have a draw, pull fuses one at a time until light goes out. Then replace or repair componets in circuit with a draw.

I'm sure u know enough if you got your hands dirty making all that power in your sig.

Sounds like its time to get a racetronix fuel pump kit with wiring harness. Regulator is a small possibility is it easy to start or does it crank for a while?

From what I've seen guys have reused stock rods, I've heard of them being resized with arp bolts because of increased clamping force but I believe the only machining takes place on the big end of a torqued rod instead of the end and cap mating surfaces. I am always for DIY projects but your idea of taking a piece from another motor as a bandaid is ghetto at the least. If its apart grab these http://store.katechengines.com/mobile/products.aspx?RowID=25&StoreType=BtoC they are going in my stock rod/crank/piston max effort setup. If I had to take one apart use the katech bolts since they go on at the same torque and do not require resizing. However at the bare minimum have the bores checked and atleast hone and rering the motor. Just becareful overboring, 97/98s can't be bored and 99 plus atleast 346c.I. can only go .10 safely. Also a ls6 oil pump and careful assembly and shell be good for 7k rpm.

Columbusracing.com lmfao if you need help with a combo or have some questions or just need ideas ask away.

My vote is Clifford automotive he is a good guy and a sponsor on this site. Many people on this site have had him do work and I have yet to hear anything negative. He repainted my car for a very good rate with top notch work.

Sounds like a dead battery or bad power connection if its just clicking.

So having worked for a stealership I learned two things, one our dealer would do all the stuff except the air filter for 25. Second I'm surprise no one brought this up but usually when you see oil after going to one of these places its because they either double gasketed the filter or they left the drain plug loose but either is going to cause you a problem. Either check it out yourself or go back to the place to avoid potential costly repairs.

I believe this car holds the record for worlds slowest sn95 pass lmfao... Now this bastard stopped cleaning up the shop to go take pics of his pussy.

My buddy will trade you a almost brand new 10mm smith and wesson.

Glad I could help

Glad to hear you making progress, two thing I would consider one if the balancer doesn't even have the timing marks in the right place you may want to consider a new since who knows what else the manufacture has out of spec. Second unmetered air is gonna cause a lean conditon so I would get your self a can of carb cleaner, or starter fluid and spray around the gaskets surfaces you suspect are leaking and when you hear an increase in rpms you have found the location of your leak.

When I said cam gear I meant the larger gear from your timing set that bolts to the camshaft. Glad to hear the assembly went together properly, sorry for the confusion good luck figuring it it out.

So if all else fails I would serious have another look at your camshaft timing. Maybe your timing set is shady or something but unless I read it wrong it said there was no mark on the cam gear? Then how did you line it up, I would take the timing cover back off and get a quality timing set aswell as a degree wheel if your cam is not stock.

I didn't fail to address shit I pmd him about options and when he told me he wasnt local I sugguested a place to order a longblock from this was all before you started this by being a duesche trying to insult me. Your failing to address what he uses his car for you say driver feedback isn't shit well to a road racer or auto xer this is critical. If I were you and got the shitty driver feedback from a cobra you failed at boosting that no one saw cause it was never sweet like you said i would hate the feedback the car gave me too failing to run. And last time i checked a zo6 and zr1 had lsx motors in them so you must have smoked so much crack that you really believe its a totally different family of motors. And I never tried arguing anything about chads turbo kits I said it was an option and you began to insult him when you said you have never once seen or used his product or dealt with him personally instead you go on a few words of people you never meet on a forum and then spread that when you have no experience with the company that's gay as fuck. Your main point is nothing you have proved nothing other than your ignorant.

Even a trailblazer ss because if you spent the difference you would make you would have one fast ass suv.

A gto or g8 would provide you with more room and comfort. Even if you get an auto all you need is a nice torque converter and you'll be faster than a comparable manual.

Lmfao a modular better with a supercharger your right i forgot the gt500 couldn't even keep with the z06 so I'm sure it would rape the zr1. Your point number 2 is retarded lsx motors simply flow more air, boost or no boost more flow=more power. I only brought up dimensions because they is something about not being able to see your your exhaust manifold bolts being a bit well gay! Your point number 3 shows you know nothing a about driver feedback i wasnt trying to throw words out it was because that system is problematic and inconsistent. I just have one question dude where is this super sweet cobra o wait wasn't the your own car that you removed the turbos from because your fan boy ass specializes lmfao on n/a power and couldn't get the shit to run right so you sold it. I'm out of here, I'm done shit in tech cause your a fucking idiot any of the regular lsx guys would fall off a car laughing at the stupid comments you have made above. Infact I would be willing to bet you end up editing the things you have said. Also I like how you bash chads turbo kits yet he produces a affordable kit which allows people who usually couldn't afford the mods to participate in racing, tons have people have installed and gotten to run properly whereas you cant even make your own shit run right.

I still find it odd to say adding a better motor in every single aspect is weird or retarded. And technically they do have the sheer size infact there a good bit bigger its just wasted on a poorly configured engine. First an lsx swap would give you an engine that was easier to work on because not only is it a simplier motor but it is smaller in actual dimensions even though it has a larger displacment, second which would really benefit a auto x/ road race car is the elimination of the hydro boost which can be replaced with a standard 94/95 booster. Normally I would check out here however the fact the your insisting I don't know my shit I figured I would further prove my point. I see your point saying the motor can be built however I feel its still stupid to do a full tilt build like this http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_0810_ford_mustang_two_valve_engine_buildup/dyno_results.html to have what when converted to rwhp is comparable to a lsx with a baby cam without headers. That modular is fully built to the hill with forged everything and stage 3 livernois heads, that would probably run an enthusiast 10k to build. Point is i won't fuck my customers over trying to get them to drop that much money for such little amount of power when there are so many more options other than n/a modular power. Quite frankly I feel your a little out of line insulting my knowledge when I have stated true facts and you've just rode around on your high horse insisting you and your knowledge of boat anchors is first class. I will however keep you in mind if I get some dumbass around my shop who wants a 10k modular motor that makes less power than one with the on three kit will make for less than half fully done. I will not give you the pleasure of removing anything, I work on real pushrod mustangs all the time and do work on modular mustangs I just won't try to get somebody to try to polish a turd.

Variety of modular mustang options your kidding right. So there's a supercharger, turbo and nitrous or go slow. Seriously what are the n/a options for the modular..........

It's almost gotta be the cyl 6 coil or there is damage or corrosion in the wiring or connector for that coil.